johnc

The part needs to perfectly clean, bead blasting is preferred. Grind the crack into a V notch so there's room for the weld and the filler. Preheat the entire part to at least 400 degrees and keep it hot the entire time you're welding. Use a stick welder and a high nickel rod. Weld in short (1 to 2") passes and alternate from each end of the crack. Cool the part down slowly, maybe over a 30 minute time period. But, since you're welding a turbo hosing that will go through some sever temperature swings, I don't think there's much chance this repair will last.

Actually, my absolute #1 sound bite is from the movie Le Mans. Its the in cab gutteral roar of the long tail 917 going up through the gears on the front straight on the first lap of the race.

From Dr. Strangelove: Major T.J. "King" Kong dons his ten-gallon hat and solemnly announces to his crew, as the soundtrack plays a snare-drum accentuated theme song: "When Johnny Comes Marching Home": http://www.tigersweat.com/movies/strange/slove03.wav And Colonel Bat Guano as he apprehended Group Captain Lionel Mandrake after finding the body of General Jack D. Ripper in the bathroom: http://www.tigersweat.com/movies/strange/slove11.wav And President Merkin Muffley telling Soviet Premier Kissoff that General Ripper has ordered the B-52s to attack Russia: http://www.tigersweat.com/movies/strange/slove05.wav And, I don't have a sound clip, but here's the text outlining General Ripper's reason for launching the attack on Russia: "Nineteen hundred and forty-six. Nineteen forty-six, Mandrake. How does that coincide with your post-war Commie conspiracy, huh? It's incredibly obvious, isn't it? A foreign substance [floridation] is introduced into our precious bodily fluids without the knowledge of the individual. Certainly without any choice. That's the way your hard-core Commie works.... Well, I, uh... I... I... first became aware of it, Mandrake, during the physical act of love... Yes, a uh, a profound sense of fatigue... a feeling of emptiness followed. Luckily I... I was able to interpret these feelings correctly. Loss of essence.... can assure you it has not recurred, Mandrake. Women uh... women sense my power and they seek the life essence. I, uh... I do not avoid women, Mandrake.... But I... I do deny them my essence." --General Ripper And a trivial question: Which Star Wars actor had a role in Dr. Strangelove? Bonus question: What was the name of the character the actor played?

Keep your crank pulley the same as stock. Get underdrive pulleys for water pump, alternator, etc. once you determine what speed you need to turn each accessory. You should be able to search around and find the correct sized pulley for your alternator. Do some research and see what the pulley sizes are on other Nissan vehicles.

You need a long combination 13mm (or is it 12mm or is it 14mm) wrench and a big screwdriver to disconnect the driveshaft. You will also need to wire it up well so it doesn't slip out of the transmission and leave a trail of fluid down the highway. Its a little akward getting the wrench in place to remove the nuts but it can be done. Use the box end backwards. Shove the screwdriver in the u-joints to keep the shaft from turning.

A 396/375 Chevelle can turn 12s all day if the driver is good and the rear suspension is worked a little bit.

Look down throught the topics. This has been discussed before.

If you are running your Z on the track regularly you should (at least once per season): 1. Pull the calipers (and all other brake components), clean, inspect, and replace worn parts. 2. Clean the chassis looking for cracks. 3. Replace worn fasteners. 4. Disassemble, clean, inspect, and lube all steering and suspension components. 5. Disassemble, clean, and inspect all engine, trans, and diff mounts. 6. Disassemble, clean, inspect, and lube all bearings, hubs, stub axles, driveshaft, and halfshaft. 7. ...and lots more stuff... This kind of fundamental maintenance is what keeps your car safe and on the track.

EMI Racing can convert any standard high end racing shock into a strut configuration (Penskes, Koni 28,30 series, Ohlins, Sachs.) Generally the shock has to allow disassembly down to a seprate shock body. Our design works just like the stock configuration instead of the designs where the shock is inverted, a sleeve rides over the outside of the original shock body, and the strut shaft is attched at the bottom of the strut. Its not cheap, but it works very well.

Yes. Check fuses, battery, engine and chassis grounds, alternator, relay, etc. I would most likey suspect a bad chassis ground. Look for a braided steel or copper strap connecting the engine to the chassis on the passenge side. Also check the ground for the fuel pump.

What Tim posted above... Since the stock front rotors are solid, you need to air to both faces and the only easy way to do it is to build a structure that surrounds the rotor and moves some air from the inside face (where the hose connects), over the outer diameter of the rotor to the outside face.

If the moustache bar was not solidly mounted then I bet you got a fatigue failure on the front crosssmember. Try replacing the rubber/poly moustache bar mounts with a solid bar of aluminum, drilled and turned down appropriately.

niM, Start your reseach here: Internet Z Car Club Carl has created the most comprehensive site on the the history of the Z car. You'll also want to check out: The 240Z Club and: ZCar.com and: ZDriver. Parts sources are: Z Parts, Motorsport Auto, and both Ross Corrigan and Mike Kelly from this site sell high performance suspension and brake systems for the 240Z.

I don't think anyone can give you a direct answer. You will have to install a cam and test it for yourself. There are too many variables involved to make a comparison with someone else's modified car. I do suggest that you look for a shorter duration cam, especially for a street car. The old Nissan Hi Perf cam (.434" lift 256 duration) is a great cam for a mild stock motor like yours. Anything more than that is really a waste unless you raise the compression and do some head work.

The draw (also called scavenging) effect is still there because that exhaust slug is now moving down the exhaust pipe. Unfortunately, the "force" of the draw is reduced because the "force" is now being distributed across all the primary pipes in the collector. You might also run into situations where the exhaust pulses from other cylinders on the collector run into each other due to unequal length primaries and/or bad collector design. A Tri-Y header might help in this regard if you are limited to short primary pipes, but I'm thinking that if you can fit the bigger OD duals from a Tri-Y next to the block, you should be able to fit all 4 primaries.

86mm bore with 74mm stroke would come out to 2.6L. My guess is that you'll have to use custom pistons. As an engineering exercise it would be interesting but I'm not sure how it would benefit street driving or track driving. I think Bryan Little did this with his motor. I don't remember the link so you'll have to search the web for the Datsun Garage. Or maybe someone with a better memory will post the link.

Penskes can be valved any way you want 'em.

I'm with Dan regarding coil overs, but for a different reason. They require much more maintenance than stock springs. Look at most coil over equipped vehicles after a couple years of use. The threaded collars are worn from the springs, aluminum spring perches are gouged, lower spring perches have their adjusting holes stripped... Plus, you have to clean the threaded collars frequently or you end up with a frozen "adjustable" perch.

Try two Marmon clamps. You'll be grateful the next time you pull the motor or the header.

Don't cut a hole in the structure near the strut tower! As stated above, run a 3" duct from whatever air dam opening you have along the lower the inside of the fenderwell. Then route it forward of the strut to a can that surrounds the solid rotor. You need to get air to both sides of the solid rotor or it will warp. If you run a vented rotor, run the air to the center hub area.

Go to Datsun L6...

Always remember, "You get what you pay for!" $349 sounds way too cheap considering a rebuilt Nissan Comp LSD sells for $500 used.

Go to the thread in Datsun L6...

Yes. Be careful and check how tight it is to the rear quarter panel. I had to sand mine some and put helicopter tape on the panel (my hatch sits lower than most.)

Kinda funny how topics just go off on their own sometime. Pete, I'm doing this from memory, but with the stock sized 175/70-14 tires I think the ride height is 6 3/4" at the front rocker panel seam. At least that was about the number I measured on a bone stock, all original 1972 I had in my garage back in 1997.