johnc

I run Mobil 1 or Redline.

BRE Spoiler Scroll to the bottom picture and you can just see how my BRE spoiler fits.

Under the force of a front impact your shoulders bow backwards (which is good, absorbs energy) and the harnesses try to slip off to the sides (which is bad, makes the steering wheel the next thing you'll taste.) The shoulder cutouts in racing seats are designed to keep the belts on your shoulders and keep your uppser torso from flying sideways too much. In the past, sternum straps (in front of the chest) and H straps (behind the shoulders) were allowed. Accident research has shown that sternum straps don't allow the chest to flex thus causing heart bruising. I don't think any sanctioning body allows them any more. H straps never really worked but I don't know if they are allowed or not.

You can also weight them. A stock Nissan L28 crank is 48 to 50lbs. Diesel cranks are considerably more.

> ...the rears come with toe out adjustment. Personally, I would prefer the optional toe-in adjustment...

This should all give you guys a healthy dose of skepticism about tuner magazine articles. No magazine article about Hennessey ever said a bad thing about him. No magazine article has ever said anything bad about Saleen, Stillen, Shelby, Brown, etc. One of these days I'll tell ya'll a story about "The Viper That Never Was." Here's a hint for those sharp enough (ya gotta be really sharp and up on the ALMS series) to figure it out: The Viper That Never Was

245s all the way around. The rears will rub at the top of the fender and I'm going to do a very minor flare. The fronts rub the back of the front spoiler bad so I'll have to trim it.

It took me a while to get the trans and other stuff out of the car. Here's a shot from the rear 3/4:

John Hennessey... EMI Racing used to sell John the Penske shocks, anti-roll bars, monoballs, etc. that he put on his Vipers and touted as his own. After he didn't pay the first invoice, he was put on COD. After a check bounced, he was put on cash only. He then contacted Penske directly and tried to have them sell him EMI's valving. Penske said no. EMI doesn't even sell him stuff for cash now. Some folks saw him ball up a customer's car during a delivery demo drive at LVMS and then walk away from it telling the customer "that's racing." Car and Driver had a road test about a year ago of a Yellow Hennessey Viper that supposedly went over 200 mph. One of the things they raved about on the car was the suspension. That car had the EMI Racing suspension on it and John was supposed to give the company a promo in the article. He didn't. See a pattern here?

Should be just fine. Be more concerned about EMF interference than location. You don't have a 5,000 watt amp on the other side of that firewall?

I think there were some made in Japan years ago. Prices wre rumored to be in the tens of thousands of dollars.

The big bore SUs are also known as 2" or 50mm SUs. Originally they were develoepd for Jaguar XKE motors. Don't know where you would find one but I suggest you try ZTherapy (on the net under than name).

Running a fuel with a higher octane than your engine needs actually reduces power. The higher octane doesn't burn as well so you don't get the same cylinder pressures. But, the difference in power is really only noticeable on an engine dyno. Now, if you are asking what modifications you need to make to take advantage of the higher octane fuel, well, that's a whole book in itself. I sugest you start reading some of the topics in the Turbo/Supercharger and the Datsun L6 forums. And most L6 engines will run fine on unleaded if they've had a valve job in the last 20 years.

The front of the car around the radiator core support does move around under high cornering loads. Lots of guys find this out after solidly mounting their radiator and then seeing it gradually torn apart. The biggest help is to triangulate the area from the strut towers.

A welded diff requires a different suspension setup to make it work (and it can be made to work well.) With a welded diff the car will push on corner entry (and most of the way through the corner) unless you can get some large slip angles in the rear and use the throttle to control the car's direction. With that in mind, you need to move roll stiffness to the rear and learn how to drive a car that has a lot of oversteer. They can be fast but they are tricky to drive fast.

Here are the rear wheel cylinder part numbers from the Nissan microfiche: 44101-E4100 Assy-Rear Wheel LH until 6/72 44101-E8700 Assy-Rear Wheel LH from 7/72 to 9/72 44101-N3001 Assy-Rear Wheel LH from 10/72 44100-E4100 Assy-Rear Wheel RH until 6/72 44100-E8700 Assy-Rear Wheel RH from 7/72 to 9/72 44100-N3001 Assy-Rear Wheel RH from 10/72 $80 sounds like a reasonable price to me for a new part that includes the seals and everything else. Did you call Courtesy Nissan in Richardson Texas to see what their price is?

Cutting springs also stiffens them. The number of free coils is one of the factors in calculating the spring rate.

My own personal opinion - for whatever it might be worth: Chassis dynos (of which the Dynojet brand seems to get the most respect) are good, convnient tuning tools if you have a well trained and thorough operator. They measure how well a vehicle accelerates a mass and thus, are a good way to measure the accelerative capabilites of that same vehicle. Plus, you can make changes quickly and run another test. Despite what the dyno companies say, they do not measure horsepower and are not good at coming up with quantifiable nubmers to compare with other dynos, your buddies, etc. They are excellent tuning tools and lousy bragging tools.

Unfortunately, I think health problems are keeping Don Potter from building any more motors. That's a shame. You can talk with Jim Thompson or Lee at Sunbelt: (770) 932-0160 but just be aware that their factory racing engine contracts (Mazda and Nissan) tend to take priority. Sunbelt doesn't have any set prices, you'll have to talk with them about what you want because there are differnt kinds of "blueprinting" and "balancing." For example: the Nissan diesel crank in my motor weighs 38 lbs - that's 10 lbs less then a stock Nissan L6 crank.

FYI... the 25 hour for bearings and 50 for rods are inspection points, not a required replacement. But, I figured since I'll have the rod caps off I might as well replace the bearings unless they are looking brand new. Regarding how long it takes Sunbelt to deliver... 9 months and counting for my motor. Its frustrating as hell and I've had to miss a couple events this year so I have no chance for a championship. But, Keith Thomas and Chet Whittle have waited as long as 2 years for a Don Potter motor so I guess I'm lucky????

Jarret and Scotty, I'm going to move this to the Turbo/Supercharger forum.

Looks like the 7M was made for the 240Z. Cool!

Be sure to call and talk with the Dyno shop before you bring the car down. Some shops don't have or don't know how to setup the O2 stuff.

I don't know the laws in Oklahoma, but removing the cat does violate Federal law. Luckily there are no Federal officers enforcing that law so its back to each state. If OK has a vehicle inspection program you might get caught in that, depending on how the state determines the emissions requirements for the swap. Regarding the horsepower gain - if its a late model engine (post OBD2) the cats are very efficient and you probably won't see much of a horsepower gain.

I can't say whether you will see a noticable gain or not. Some folks have done this conversion so I guess they would be the best ones to reply. Going out on a limb with an uneducated opinion - If that's the only change you make to the motor I think you'll be disappointed. If that change is made in conjunction with other modifications then you might be happy.