johnc

You need to go to the hospital right now and complain of a massive headache, neck pain, and numbness in your left arm. That's assuming you have those symptoms.

Yes they do. Depends a lot on the track and how aggressive the driver is. Ran a 6 hour enduro and we had to do a front pad change halfway through. Try changing brake pads quickly when they come in smoking. The Silvermine kit is probably the best bang for your buck ready-made kit available. It also has good balance as shipped. The 280ZX and Maxima rear calipers tend to not have enough rear bias when used with the Toyopta S12W caliper up front.

I mean, c'mon. What's not to laugh at. Yeah, they have their style but as functional cars these are failures.

I don't know how much was spent specifically on the crank. I paid for a whole engine. I do know that it took two LD28 cranks to get one that stayed straight enough after Nitriding to be of use. The first one bowed and later sonic inspection found some porosity inside the number 3 main.

Rule 1: I guess the debate is whether the hellflush/slammed look is a "thoughtful" modification that enhances styling? IMHO, it is based on our rules, assuming the modification is done with some technical/engineering thought. Yes it will draw some technical criticism or suggested improvements but it does have a place here on HybridZ.

Now we know that the "Speed" part of Speedhunters is BS.

Glad it worked out.

Pay it forward... Glad you got home and its strange how a big gash got in the tire. I had someone unload their street registered WRX of their trailer, load my broken car on, and then haul my car to my house while I followed in their WRX. Did the reverse at my house, offered to buy gas, he said no, so I hid $50 in his glove box. A year later he told me at an event that he lost his wallet at work and was on fumes driving home. He opened his glove box to search for change and found the $50 hidden under a pile of papers. It took him a few days to figure it out but he said he was very, very grateful.

Overall air fuel ratios under full throttle and at high rpm are good. Lean at idle. The car is going to another tuning shop to do some further checking on the individual cylinder mixtures.

You need to look at the hillclimb course. If its a typical hill climb (not Pike's Peak) its low to medium speed corners with huge penalties for making a mistake. You'll want a car that rotates more then a typical road race car but not something that rotates as well as a Solo2 car. Slight understeer (even with slight lift throttle) in medium speed corners and neutral with lift throttle oversteer in low speed corners. It must put power down well from low speed and be stable under power during medium speed corner exits.

I guess I missed this thread. You're welcome...?

Chains don't squeal. Its your fan belts. They can get glazed and slip even when tight. Time for a new belt.

No pics of the pistons or head. Its a flat top L24. Just did a full compression test and the average of three after the engine builder installed a new head gasket is: #1 - 182 #2 - 153 #3 - 164 #4 - 175 #5 - 170 #6 - 172 I didn't do a leak down test but pressurized #2 and #3 to listen for any leaks past the head gasket. Didn't hear any. The car is getting checked for air/fuel ratios and will get put on a chassis dyno for carb tuning. I'm not really an engine guy so its time to refer it to the Weber experts in the area. Carbs are Weber 40 DCOE 18s with 32mm venturis.

Total advance - 36 degrees. CR - about 9.5 to 1. 91 octane.

No. The lower spring perch will not be threading up and down unless the Stance setup is a pile of crap.

Ideally you'll pull the engine, trans, diff, and wheels/tires. Support the car with 8 jack stands - a pair under the TC rod mount, a pair under the front of the rocker, a pair under the rear of the rocker, and a pair under the rear subframe. Do one side at a time.

I've never had any failures due to chatter but keep an eye on your inner LCA bushings, mounting bolts, and big bushing bolts. I've had them loosen when running a welded diff due to parking lot/grid chatter. Add more friction modifier as Jon mentions. I would also run 75W/140 GL5 full synthetic gear lube and do about 10 minutes of figure 8s in a parking lot. Really boring. And wait until you hear the big bang. It happens every once in a while but causes no harm.

On my racing L6 the two tangs in the oil pump drive snapped off. I replaced the pump at the track and continued the race weekend. At the shop I pulled the pump/distributor drive shaft out and fit a .010" thin strip of hard brass shim stock around the bottom of the drive shaft tang so there was a tight fit in between the drive tangs of the oil pump. Solved the problem for at least the nest 50 hours on the engine. Seems that vibration, reversing loads, and some excessive clearance in between the pump drive and the shaft tangs cause the pump tangs to fail.

You will need the 1.75" primary Nissan Comp header.

What he said ^ If you didn't have enough air flow through the third carb, why did you think re-routing the fuel line would help? Max fuel pressure for those carbs is 4 psi so make sure your fuel pump isn't blowing fuel past the needle and seat.

Engine has not been overheated since the current owner has had it. Was bought as a "rebuilt" engine off the internet, ran about 6 months, and then number six rod bearing failed due to assembly and oiling problems. Engine was rebuilt and the failure above occurred after about 4 hours of total operation.

Please do some more searching. 15 x 7 Konigs clear the S12W calipers just fine without a spacer. Also, spacers from Summit and Jegs are not that expensive.