johnc

http://balancedperformance.com/

250 lb. in. is the lower limit for the 8610s. They will probably work fine at the softest rebound setting. The 8611s are probably just bit too stiff in rebound but not enough to cause the problems I described above. An alternative are the Tokico HTS/D-Spec shocks with are adjustable, have digressive valving, and work well with spring rates in the 200 to 350 range. The specific application is HTS102F which has 5" of total travel. A few people here ahve been racing with the HTS shocks and are pretty happy with them. The better HTS (HTS112F) is NLA from Tokico.

Did you run the engine rpms up around 7,000 before this happened? Maybe a bad downshift?

I'm going to be a bit nit picky here... Actually, you have the worst of both worlds. Race valving with soft springs (unless the valving is specific for those soft springs) generally has too much rebound. The suspension would have a tendency to pack down, the car won't put down power well, and there's a tendency to lift the inside rear wheel causing wheel spin. Technically yes, practically no. There is a limit to how low you can run any car and the S30 has some specific limitations caused by the front geometry. One of basics in car setup is to put the shock in the middle of its range of travel at static ride height. You want to prevent hitting the bump stops and topping out/lifting a wheel. There are exceptions like running droop limiters in front but the basic starting point is having the shock in the middle of its range of travel. And flat out no regarding shocks wearing out faster. It depends. On a smooth track with big springs you may only need 2" of total suspension travel. On a bumpy track with soft spring you may need 5" of travel. Progressive damping is very old technology and is even being abandoned by the off road racers. Digressive is where everyone is right now, even the Tokico HTS/D-Spec is digressive. Sorry to go through your post like this, but its important on this site to get the details correct.

From a racing perspective, this thread has more information then you'll ever need: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50944-the-strut-thread-koni-illumina-tokico-carrera-bilstein-ground-control/

Its a lot harder to learn TIG doing bodywork. Unless you're planning on welding AL then a MIG will get you through most anything you need on a car with a 110v machine. The Millarmatic 211 Auto-Set and the Lincoln PowerMIG 180 Dual Power can run as 110 or 230v machines. Both will accept a spool gun for AL welding. Make sure you start with a gas bottle, skip the flux core wire. HTP is also a good choice. I've been using their MIG 2400 for 8 years now and its only had a couple minor problems that HTP phone support walked me through fixing in about 10 minutes. Their machines are made in Italy. http://www.usaweld.com/ The MIG 160DV is comparable to the Miller and Lincoln I list about. HTP machines don't have all the bells and whistles of Lincoln or Miller but they work and the company provides great support.

Coast Fab (which makes the mufflers for Burns). A futile attempt at meeting noise limits. There is another length of pipe that slips into the end of the muffler that routes the exhaust down and to the side with provisions for a second muffler. It just didn't look as cool.

Hope your wife/girlfriend gets better soon.

Built a header and exhaust for a Solo2 A-Mod car. 300+hp, 900lbs with driver.

You're welcome. My wife said, "You have a customer with a winery in New Zealand? Why the hell haven't we gone to New Zealand for a vacation!?" Somehow I get in trouble for the strangest things...

Rules. What's funny is that you'll hear these arguments about how ill handling a Porsche (or any FWD car) is on the Internet and in car magazines. But you do not hear these arguments at a race track. Racers know that on any given day pretty much any driver/car combination can win. And the Porsche 911 has so consistently won races since the SWB version came out in 1964 that its the winninest race car in history. That says a helluva lot about the success of the design. Its the ultimate test. FYI... I was just out at the SCCA Double regional at Buttonwillow and two ex LBGP Pro Celebrity Toyota Celica's beat two T1 C5 Corvettes in a 30 minute race. The folks on the Internet and in the car magazines will say that can't happen, but it does - all the time. Its nothing remarkable.

Really? A bad design? The most successful race car IN HISTORY... I would argue that its the most successful race car design in history.

Sorry I haven't got back with the measurement. I have nothing to measure here at the shop and my friend is on to other things right now.

Remember that the OEM Datsun inserts were not inserts per se. They were double tube shocks that used the strut tube itself as the outer tube of the shock. 299cc is 10 ounces of fluid. If you pour that much into the strut tube and then slide in a full shock you'll make a giant mess. Spray a little rust penetrant on the inside of the strut tube and then grease the shock body. That will prevent any future corrosion and let the shock come out easily a few years from now. And ignore the posts that follow this that discuss the need for oil to allow heat transfer. If you're working the shocks hard enough to fade the modern synthetic shock oils then you're got other issues.

Every car is different. The "average" drop is about 1" but I've seen those springs raise a car by 1/4" and drop a car by 1 1/2". It all depends on the condition of your car's suspension and how much crap is in or on the car.

RTFM. Read the ******* manual. Don't just flail around in the garage, get pissed, and then post here. Settle down and do some research. 1,000 guys on HybrdZ have done this and posted how to do it - some even included pictures.

Without seeing the upper spring perch that's used with your camber plates, there's no way of knowing where the spring loads go. The spherical bearing is fine for the shock loads and works fine for a while handling the spring loads. The 2.5" Torrington bearings pictured normally sit under the springs and reduce spring warp/bind and the resulting friction against the shock upper seal and piston.

There's a discussion about this video on Jalopnik. http://jalopnik.com/5894294/ride-along-on-a-wild-lap-of-circuit-de-spa

Jesus Christ dude... Grab the shaft with your hand after dropping the spring as far as possible. Then hit it with the impact. That should give you 15 to 20 ft. lbs. Or you can go buy a strap wrench. Or if its a HZ/BZ3099 there are two flats at the top that will fit a thin 16mm open end wrench.

You really need to do some more reading. Please read all the stuff people are helping you with.

I use a Pipemaster to measure the notch, hole saw style notcher for the rough cut, and a 1.5" or 1.75" sanding drum to finish up the notch.

Its actually handling pretty well given that its a 1964 short wheelbase 911 running on 5" wide bias ply vintage racing slicks. Car is very predictable and just requires large slip angles to get around the track quickly.

More is not always better. You can start breaking stub axle flanges if you run too much rear toe-in and autox or track the car.

Lift off oversteer generally isn't. People confuse a transition from understeer to neutral as oversteer. If you're not counter steering then the car is not oversteering. A good handling car will transition from understeer to neutral or even oversteer if you lift off the throttle in a corner. This is a car with lift throttle oversteer:

You probably have the trans mount facing the wrong way.