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johnc

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Everything posted by johnc

  1. For an open track event (non competitive) I would run the cheapest, longest lasting tires I could find. IMHO, its pretty silly to run Hoosiers when lap times don't matter. RA1s or Nittos for me...
  2. Borla XR-1 Sportsman center in, center out 3", 16" long part number 40944. Fits very nicely flat across the back:
  3. Just gear the car so you're at 80 mph at 6,000 rpm in 2nd and you'll be good.
  4. FYI... 5.14, 4.88. and 3.15 available new for the long nose R200. http://kameariusa.com/L6_r200.php
  5. Replace the oil pressure sending unit on the right side of the block. They become less accurate over time.
  6. The bar is most likely 1.25" which is the typical splined ARB sizes: http://1speedway.com/standard_swaybars.htm Regarding other "tricks", look at the front steering rack mount in your picture above.
  7. You'll want to gear it for a second gear redline of 80 mph.
  8. I'm partial to chemicals and vibration myself. But that's been true for me since the dazed and confused 1970s.
  9. Looks like they used Redline Shockproof gear oil. Its an ugly babyshit yellow color.
  10. Correct. The primary length I mentioned was for engines with a 6 cylinder firing interval (120 degrees). Now, this is completely off the top of my head, but my guess for a 90 degree V8 firing order you will need a length to the final merge of 18.5" to 21.5". If that's too short you might be able to double the numbers. But, again, this is off the top of my head and I haven't finished my second cup of coffee yet.
  11. 30mm is a small cut when shortening S30 struts. Please read the link I posted above. You typically shorten the front strut tube so that there is no spacer under the shock and then take the exact same amount out of the rear strut tube and cut a spacer the correct length to put the top of the shock body even with the top of the shortened strut tube. I typically shorten the struts around 1.750" - depending on the shock used.
  12. What MR2 shocks are in your car now? Tokico, KYB, Monroe? The HTS102F is shorter then the Illumina BZ3099 but you lose 1" of total travel.
  13. Agreed with everyone here. Find a used mill (doesn't have to be a Bridgeport for your intended useage) and try to score ALL of the tooling. When I opened my shop I bought a Granite mill/lathe combo and it turned out to be an OK lathe, a really good drill press, and a shitty mill.
  14. All those inserts will work, although I'm not sure about the rebound valving on the 3125 and the 3038. Both are pretty similar tot he 3099 so its probably not an issue. The 3125 has a shorter stroke then the other so be careful not to shorten the struts too much. The the 30mm sectioning TTT recommended seemed a little short (not enough cut out) to me.
  15. None of the RB engines will ever be smog legal in the USA. There were never brought in and certified to Federal, let alone State standards.
  16. The link is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38589-strut-sectioning-faq/ I don't' know where TTT is getting their numbers from.
  17. IRRC, I have used a length of 1.5" OD x .095" wall DOM tubing machined to exactly 2.068" long. Measure the OD of your stub axle and make use its smaller then 1.4". If so, then the tubing I mention above will work.
  18. You've got two build threads for this car?
  19. johnc

    Side Axles Number 5

    From the album: Products

  20. Keep track of lap times. You might "fix" your problem in the corner above yet have slower overall lap times.
  21. I know it doesn't apply here, bit I have to say this after seeing a regulator explode: Do not ever, ever use any sealant, tape, or any kind of hydrocarbon (oil, grease, etc.) anywhere near a fitting on an Oxygen tank. The high pressure will cause those items to combust through dieseling. IMHO, I don't use any sealant on any high pressure gas fittings. Just tighten them up and spray with soapy water to see if you have a leak.
  22. johnc

    Generic Header

    From the album: For Sale

  23. johnc

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    From the album: For Sale

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