SonOfZZZap

Well, considering that my return is gonna be pretty damn small (been a full time student for about a year and havn't worked much since). I might have 200 bucks... Might be picking up a nintendo Wii... Im debating lol. Will most likely end up saving it.

Excellent work man! makes me want to draw again, I might have to buy some paper and sketch pencils

Theres an S30 in the first 'Back to the future' film in the scene where marty and jennifer are downtown and the "save the clock tower" lady was running around. Watch and see.

I used to take my old 280Z on long drives for the hell of it, NO PROBS. If any Z is maintained, it will keep running for a long time.. why the hell else would there still be some around?

Well, sounds like an air metering problem. Either throttle position sensor or your MAF meter. Either way when you hit WOT and want go fast power, something is saying "TOO MUCH AIR!" and killing it. The backfire is from you gunning it and the fuel not burning because of your current problem. so when the exhaust pulls air back in and you got extra fuel and heat with compression in exhaust ="BOOM!". I wish you luck. -Jared

FOR SURE Wish I still had my 280T

VERY NICE Hows the weather up there below dallas? I was in terrell a few days ago and it was pretty hot. Houston is hot and humid like always. good work again!

Basically this. I have roughly 7 days until I move to Houston TX to go to another college. Ive had the no spark problem for over a week and I don't have a clue what is happening( ive checked and doube/triple checked everything). Replaced the ignitor and tried another way to wire the harness up and still no luck. I live in Dalton GA its about 2 hours north of ATL. If anyone can help me I would be very greatful. I'm all out of luck right now. AIM: Jared O99x (thats a space) MSN: skryptic977@charter.net or send me a PM on hybrid. thanks guys. ~ZZZap

Well I got the fuel pump working fine. and fuel pressure is good. STILL no spark. Again here is how everything is wired. ON NEW IGNITOR: BW switched YW going to connector which connects into the ecu on connector: Pin 1 YW to ignitor Pin 2 Y switched power GL Ground YL Ground am I missing anything?

Well no luck with the spark. cleaned up all the wiring for the ignition and replaced the ignitor. No luck with getting it to start. My fuel pressure is also zip (even though my new relay is sending power to pump... traced it all the way back and tested with my light). Ecu gives me the go light and still, nothing. I hope my CAS isnt bad because it is over 300 bucks to replace for a new one.. Im moving to Houston TX in 10 DAYS... I have to get this heap running again and im at a point where my luck has run out. still trying to figure it out... ~ZZZap

ditto man, I'm looking into it more today, I'll be sure to let you know if anything goes well.

Hi, First off I've done my fair share of searching before I EVER post an inquiry on here. So that being said, I have yet to find out what exactly is causing my no spark problem; here's the story so far. I have a 77 280Z that myself and a mechanic friend installed an L28ET (82 model) into early this week. Since then I've installed most parts back into the bay and started wiring 2 days ago. Friday night we worked around getting our constants and switched power hook-ups into the efi harness (got the green light on the ecu) and then proceeded to the ignition harness. after no spark friday night we continued to troubleshoot the problem and found better switched power which didn't help the problem. At first we thought perhaps the blaster 2 coil I was using could be bad, so we tried the stock coil which I KNOW worked. (I got the donor car running before pulling it out). The only other possible explanation is that the ignitor is bad (though like I said, the donor car ran). Here's how everything is connected... I've tested all connections that need the switched power for continuity and everything checks out. It could very well be that I wired something incorrectly, so all input is welcome. Thanks guys, wish me luck as I keep troubleshooting. -Zzzap

oh man thats shiney, damn fine! ~ZZZap

I like em man, but it always seems you are drawing drawing drawing, and I never see any REAL work. You are a talented artist, and I bet you could practice with fiberglass and make those sketches happen... do us a favor and get to work! maybe make a small model to practice, then work on a parts car body... its worth a shot. my 2 cents.

I have a spec stage 1 clutch sitting in the hatch of my car. From what ive read they are actually pretty good. Of course some people might have problems, Ive heard of people having disatisfaction with ACT clutches as well. Its just all based ont he application. My car will be a general setup, no crazy high boost dragger, more of the autocross/road course type setup (eventually). I'll be sure to post my experience with it as soon as it goes in.

It looks nice, I like the creativity.

Been following this thread as well as the original (which I read first) and actually emailed Martin from Canada (the guy who started it all). Honestly from what I've read about some of the other paints... the rustoleum brand will most likly be our best bet. I've tested a small a square on my fender. Rolled on with a 4" quality foam roller, no runs to speak of... applied two thinned coats about 2-3 days ago. I need to play around with the thinning process but as far as durability... the paint is T.O.U.G.H. I let it cure overnight and tried to scratch the surface with my nails... no luck... now around the edges was easier of course, but you still have to work at it to REALLY do any dmg and every day it gets harder. It does have a nice glossy finish (that is if you are using a gloss color). The paint is Rustoleum Professional Protective Enamel. I applied it to bare metal for the test run. Now about the primer surface being better... There is a special metal prime made specifically for this type of paint... it is called "Clean Metal Primer" and should be next to the paint on the shelf with all of the other rusto stuff. Havnt tried it yet but I will keep you posted. -Jared

I must say, that thing is looking rather nice with the widebody.

Well, thankfully it isnt metallic. It is a solid chevy-esque orange.

Yeah I've searched alot and like I said Ive read mixed reviews. The car is by NO MEANS a show car, I just want it to last 3-5 years. I live in Dalton and I HOPE to bring my Z, if not I am still coming. Thanks for the help though. Oh I forgot to mention it is a single stage paint. I'm thinking the paint should be fine for me. My prob is that I have never painted before.. Only read and researched.. I have everything but a gun to do it... so I thought it might be nice to try it myself if possible.. keep in touch.

Well, I have been working on my 280 for some time now. Working on the chassis and patching up rust. I wanted to look into paint and perhaps goahead and get what I needed. Took a trip to my body supply shop and spoke with a mutual friend there who happens to own it. We matched the paint I am using in the engine bay and he told me that for the price.. PPG OMNI line would be my best bet for a daily driver. I bought the paint, primer/sealer hardener and reducers... (everything I needed) and a quart of semigloss black for a hood stripe I'm planning on doing. Now that I have been reading... there are 50/50 opinions on the paint, some saying it's crap and others not. The guy told me that it would be durable and last as long as I took care of it, kept it washed and waxed (etc..). I am seeking opinions.. because money is rather tight at the moment and I may end up returning it and just doing a primer paint job until I can afford something better.