fhptom

Most commonly referred to as the lower valence. They are sort of interchangeable on all first gen Zs. They just might have turn signals where some do not.

Why is all the cool stuff so far away?????

Diamond Racing wheels 16x8 with 4" backspacing. Free powdercoating to match car for running companys logo on side of car.

1972 240Z in 1978 paid $2600 crashed in college 1974 260Z in 2000 paid $500 my track car now 1977 280z in 2007 paid $450 my future street cruiser

Well the 77 I just bought today is not quite as bad as yours. I will be able to just cut bad spots and weld in some replacement sheet metal. Plus most of my spots are where I want to cut out anyway to do fender flares and bodykit. Just make it a long term project and it will all get worked out.

I tried using that exact Valvoline Syntech in my car and once you really start using your brakes they will fade quickly. We bled after 2 sessions and replaced with a high quality race fluid and they were good for the rest of the day. Brake Hard and Brake Late on track.. Brake earlier and softer on road... And that's just for comfort...

Well I knew it was only a matter of time that I would get the urge to start a new project after seeing you guys go at it on this site. I was satisfied with just my track car, but noooo. Just bought a 1977 280Z with rust as the major problem but good engine and interior. Since I was wanting to do a cool body kit on a street car this seemed to fit the bill. And for 450.00 could not pass it up. I know I cannot go 2yrs++++ on a project like some of you. It would drive me crazy. So I will be hard at it after Daytona Z fest is over and hope to have a cool street cruiser by the end of 2008. As soon as I figure out how to post pics I will. I know, I read the sticky but that is over my head for now. I need an at home lesson before it sinks in..

I think you will find most newer sportscars have staggered wheels front to rear as far as width. Then most big muscle sportscars like Vette & Viper have different diameter as well. For cruising its fine but most racecars will keep the same diameter.

I say keep it. If you spend any time on this site you will guys who have fabbed up alot more than it looks like you have to deal with. If the rest of the car is in decent shape a little rust is sometning that almost everyone on the right coast has had to deal with.

My friend who is an engine builder told me about Marvel Mystery Oil. Pure it in, crank it over a couple of times to circulate and it should be good.

I would say truck hit garage door, rode up closed door till it gave way then on top of Ferrari. That would explain minimal damage to rear of car. You can see header for the garage door in right of picture which would have been knocked down by height of truck, plus stamping on door is facing up meaning it came down on car. At least that is what my years of crash reconstruction show me.

It is definitely a pretty car. Are those MSA or Kamanari sideskirts? It looks alot like my first Z. 1972 240 a little darker green. But also a gift from my dad. And he still is helping with my current Z.

It is amazing how much work some of you guys do to your cars. Are you going to be able to bring it over to Daytona for Z Fest. I can't wait to do the track day and see alot of cars.

Definitely not what you want to happen. When I first got my 260 it did the same thing and the raw fuel was dumping right onto my exhaust header. Luckily no fire. Shut it down on the side of the road and adjusted floats to get me home and then redid the whole carb.

I just reread Carl Becks findings on HP gains comparing different headers on same car. He tested Stock vs Nissan Comp vs Rebello and there was less than 5 hp gain from the 2 headers compared to stock. In a race car setup there will be other gains to justify cost of headers and I use MSA 6-1 on my 260. I gained 40 HP switching to this header along with putting on a N42 head with much more comp.(that is what gave me my big increase)

If you have the room to keep some stuff I would rat pack everything you can. You always seem to need something that you dumped later in your rebuild. Plus bartering things with other z nuts is always easy.