rudypoochris

If you get them rebuilt at your local autoparts store, the ones you get back will probably have caps. Just throwing that out there.

Word of advice... If you can, work for the Berkeley PD. All you have to do really is work with hippies, college students, and minor things compared to the Oakland stuff. My friends dad worked something like 20 years for them and had a really really nice house in the Oakland hills, and when he broke his leg training for motorcycle cop stuff, they gave him a huge amount of money and what not to cover his lifestyle. He is a private detective now. If you can join them, I would, over the Oakland PD anyday.

I was wondering, if you were to cut the outer rear fender, instead of bending the inner fender back up and tacking, would it be possible just to clamp it flat against the outerfender? This way it would become the same layer as the outerfender and you would bolt through both when you installed the flares (avoiding nut insert thingamajigers). That would allow you not to have to weld, and then you could just use epoxy or something similar to seal it up nicely. The question though, is, is there enough metal? just a thought.

Will you be able to make my ticket vanish? jk. Sounds good, thats a butt load of money for starts.

S30 hubs mount the brake disk on the back side of the hub (towards the engine bay). The wheel mounts on the front side (away from the inside of the car). This means that adding spacers to the brake side only effects where the rotor is placed in relation to the hub, where as adding spacers to the wheel side only effects where the wheel sits with the hub. No. The offset of the wheel has little to do with what makes it rub in this case. It is the shoulder (for lack of a better word) of the wheel center that scrapes the caliper. Even if the wheel sits farther out it will still rub. If changing the offset changes the angle of the spokes then a 0 or negative offset would acctually be prefered over a +20. A +20 would only make things worse. You want closer to 0 offset anyway with the Z's to prevent rubbing and other bad things. Just get a 8-10mm spacer. A +20 means that the wheel is in 20mm from centerline. A +10 means it is in 10mm from centerline. Thus a +10 gives a wheel that sticks farther out then a +20. The lower the offset the farther away from the inside of the car the wheel sits. So a +10 should be less likely to rub than a +20. (I don't know if they rub or not since each setup is different and I am running coilovers and such, also I haven't got tires on them yet!).

Look guys. When you swap in a newer motor into an older car you need ALL of the emissions components to make it legal. I am putting a 94 HO block in. My brother took the 94's EFI for his own use and I am left with out a fuel system. I know how to put that 4150 back together, and I am sure I can figure the EFI out since I got the wiring diagrams right here. Either way the swap won't be exactly legal since the 88 components are not correct for 94'. Fine, I will just hope a cop doesn't ask to see my engine. That all is of minimal importance to me. What matters to me is which is better to live with? Is the EFI really an upgrade performance wise? Will I have to get someone to reprogram the ECU to get it back to the same level as the carb? Those kind of things. I do care about the enviorment alot, and in either case I will keep the environment in mind, but I am mainly concerned with performance, not arguing over the legality of my swap.

California, smog exempt. I would delete all the ECU's smog stuff. Just the shear weight of the EFI is pretty staggering compared to a carb, hehe.

What I had in the works: 4 Barrel 4150 with mechanical secondaries.. Today I found: It all came off of an 88 convertable GT. The car even had a t-5!! The cats were eliminated and it had the largest cone filter I had ever seen. "Gollum" from HZ helped me get the stuff out. I wish I could have taken the whole motor (I have a 94, thats w/o the forged pistons and it has carb since my bro stole the EFI off it for his car) + trans. Infact it would have been cheaper! PnP charged me $380 for the works (it has 2 exhaust manifolds there as well, but still) if I had pulled the motor it would have been $335 + I got the block! Any way the real question is, am I better off with the EFI? Or should I just stay carbed?

Out of curiosity what does everyone do centercap wise with the Rotas? I got the Grids but can't think of what centercaps to use. Are center caps generally understood to be universal or must it match the wheel?

You should do it on the track because then yuo can say your product was "Racer Track Tested" when you go to market it. But more importantly it is safe.

Depends what the car will be used for? I think a rotary would be cool, but ultimately the SBC would make the best cost and performance. If you stop at/before 500hp then go with the SBF 5.0L. If you are really daring though, Audi 5 Cylinder. With or without the AWD.

Hey Aux, did this guy get the pan done at Mike's if so I think I saw it there. pretty cool looking. I think you need to get a matching ring and pinion from a later, short nose. If that helps any.

Wow that is very unique! Can you take any pictures of the exhaust manifolds. I am really intrested.

Thats a bummer man. The good thing is that there doesn't seem to be any frame damage and the ZG's look salvageable. About the HID's though, do you remember the brand? Can your friend still ge tthese? Thanks. Sorry about your vehicle.

I was under the impression that exhaust gas is not combustable. For this reason by adding it into your intake mixture it should decrease the effective amount of displacement making your engine equivalent to that of a smaller mechanical displacement. I think that is supposed to reduce emissions, fuel consumption, and combustion temperature. Of course power is less but then again EGR disables at WOT so it doesn't really matter (until you get a leak).

Ok ok. I think I may have misunderstood that. So basically even if the clutch disks are worn and the BT is low (say 20lbs) if you are just going in a straight line you probably won't notice because it will lock up anyway? Whats the point of having higher BT then? Is it to give some understeer on a road course and even out the vehicles so it isn't so, for lack of a better word, "dodgy"? Thanks.

I think if they revived the Datsun name like Toyota Scions equal I would seriously cry. It would be a total butchering of a good name that had real racing heritage. Then all the ricers would be driving datsuns and such :S I think now that they should revive the datsun name as a performance brand with out the luxury compromises of infinity. All models should be retros. 510's, 240z's, and Roadsters. They would have to be really light weight also... Elise fighters. *wakes up from dream* ****

Sorry I am a bit new to anything to do with adjusting the R200 from the 300zxt. Please be patient 1. Does the term breakaway torque refer to how much torque it takes to make a wheel spin if both wheels are free in the air? If so, could one measure this simply by putting a torque wrench on one side and a wrench (used to stop slippage) on the other side? 2. How does gear oil effect the breakaway torque? How does additive effect it? How does special LSD formulated gear oil effect it? Basically I am wondering if a correct measurement can be had when testing the carrier "dry". 3. Can the breakaway be adjusted with out replacing all the shims, disks, or opening the carrier? 4. Do the clutches only really wear if the driver abuses them and does heavy launches, or do they often quickly wear down just from normal/light street driving? On a car driven lightly how long might a set give a reasonable amount of torque, say 75-80% of what it was ment to be. Thanks, sorry if any of this is a bit novice.

Nice, are those for the R200 from 87-89? Were the clutch disks all the same material or are half a different material and half metal?

I know this is a stupid question, but is there any chance you have a pciture of those beams aimed at anything. I am really intrested in those, very neat looking, just worried about how much light they put out. Thanks!

Come on now.... Wrong forum and you need to search. If try 1uz, I think that is what it is called.

Is your avatar an audi V8?

same lol...

Doesnt that just mean that the body panels are stronger, not the acctual frame rails and such that take the torque, or is it all working together since it is unibody? Thanks.