rudypoochris

Shouldn't a 240z be able to hold itself together just as well, other than the r200 and stub axels I would guess? Is it really? I didn't know that. How is it stronger, other than the r200?

Out of curiosity where did you get such a big Datsun patch??

That red 240sx/Z is not mine, simply a picture of someone elses. There is also a matching one that is in blue with a slightly different front end.

Did mike make your oil pan???? If so I think i saw it down at his shop. Welcome, no one will hate on you. I think you might like this:

Can you make a lexan cut out too btw (incase you havent already planned it) that way you can see!

This may be a dumb question... but, how do you scale windspeed? Would 100MPH become 100mph/18???

How much does the TR3650 weight compared to the Mustang T-5 (say from a late 80's 5.0)? Does anyone know how much more/less torque a TR3650 can take, and if the shofter hole pops up in the same location? Lastly, does it bolt up to the 5.0L, and can it use the same clutch as the T-5??? Thanks!

I would, if I were you, be content with what you got. You probably will never find a Z in the rust free or perfect condition unless it has already been completed (not a project any more) or unless you are willing to pay the big bucks. That 280z was a steal though from what you said, unless of course you didn't check the rust spots and it was indeed rusting in many other places.

You can adjust the doors from inside the cabin without removal of the fender. I would start there. It is very easy to do with two people, much more difficult for one. If you have two people, make sure the guy who isn't ratcheting is acctually lifting the door while you are tightening, that way when it naturally sags back to the position you wanted, it closes perfectly. Hope that helped, I am probably misunderstanding what area of your car has a gap though.

Could I just get a rear sump oil pump from autozone as well as this van pan and that would be a wrap?

Can the oil pump be bolted on the back end of the block? (Sorry I havent looked at it) Or does the rear sump oil pan require a special 302 block.

If it is an AWD RB26DETT it is more than likely that is is w/o the Atessa functioning thus detering alot from the cool factor. It is still neat though.

Me too if you are talking about what I think you are talking about.

Thats kind of cool. What makes an E85 vehicle capable of running 85% ethanol. Why can our "80's and newer" vehicles run only 15% ethanol? How can we expand from 15% to a higher % blend of ethanol to gas? Sorry if those are stupid questions, thanks!

Funny my Explorer went from my house to my brothers which is 72 miles of about 90% free way with a strech of 15 minutes sustained at 90 mph and got 19.30 Mpg. I can do 21-23 if I really try on all freeway at 65. The car is geared for 55 though. I get on average 17.50 for usual business (50%/50%). The best I ever turned my average 50/50 route itno was 20.01 MPG but that took alot of restraint, still insisted on 65 on the freeway, but it took a bit to get there. You should get that checked out man. Do you have the V8 or something? My engine is different then yours though, XLT 4.0L OHV, not the SOHC, with a mazda 5-speed.

I love the rear view of the delorean, side view is horrible.

I know this is alot more expensive and really different. But what about a new Xterra with 6-speed manual? It has like 270hp and is "only" $20,000.

I like sunroofs in SUV's and Sedans, not sport coupes.

Ya, but Im guessing those don't rev to 14,000!!! But if what you said about the 14,000rpm v8 is true, thats amazing. Must be some custom grind eh. Did he put an OHC head on the chevy block? I remember reading somewhere that there was a copany making DOHC heads for chevy 350's not sure if they acctually made more power or revved higher, I would assume they did though.

My cross members are all in the stock position. I had Mike sut up alsil's mount a little for some repositioning. Now I can fit the 302 just behind the cross member (unfortunatly one of the plugs is blocked now, I will install a new one elsewhere). My block is angled slightly and the pan sits about 1/2 maybe a little more (from memory) below the x-member. The original L motor mount on the driver side needs to be removed to fit my fuel pump or oil filter can't rememeber which as the car is not with me. I willt ry and remember to take photos. Now for a 351 with its heigher deck height there should not be a probelm. It is all about setting the engine/tranny in at like a 60 degree angle and finagling it into the sweet spot. It takes some work and we use a come along + crane. The only way I can see the 351 not working, is if the pan sticks father forward or the the valve covers somehow hit, althought I am pretty sure they are in the clear on the 5.0. Hope that helps. EDIT: With a second look at those pictures the block just looks like it is sitting too high up to move further back. Mine is a bit lower which allows the bell housing bolts to acctually sit behind the firewall maybe 1/2"-1". I think you gotta try getting it in at an angle, if you haven't. UGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH I need to start reading dates, people keep bringing up really old posts. Well the answer is in the edit any way

#2 is fixed. I put in a new oil pressure sending unit and I see 70% again!!! Glad I didn't pay more than $13.95. The first problem is stilla mystery, but the oil level remains full so, so far, so good.

Whether or not it works is another story. The intresting thing is HOW much power does it take to make it work. If he is saying just an upgraded alternator then it seems worth it. If you need a fission reaction going on under your seat (or a Sunny D bottle apparently they are the only ones who have "harnessed the power of the sun") then thats different. The way they make it SEEM though, the alternator only provides what would be the equivalent of the activation cost but the actual energy released far outweighs the cost. neat idea, if I understand it correctly.

Not a good topic for a first time post :S Have fun on HybridZ though!

Rota copies that wheel and calls it a D2. They can be had through autornd.com for relatively cheap if you tell them you are from Hz.

Sorry this is a non-Z related question. This refers to a 1992 Ford Explorer 5-speed with 175,000 miles on the original, not rebuilt engine. The oil pump and sending unit are original as far as I know. I switched to synthetic about 1 year ago and haven't had problems until... now. I changed the oil about two months ago and messed up the job by forgetting to check if the surface for the new filter was clear of gaskets. I dumped a bunch of oil on the ground and lost pressure for a bit. The engine didn't make any metal to metal or horrible sounds but it was a big mess to say the least. Thats just the background... 1. My problem is that today out of the blue I start the engine up and the "check oil" lamp is lit, but pressure is still in the normal range (according to the guage). I turn the engine off and to my surprise the pan is -2 quarts from full! i could not believe my eyes and checked the dip stick 3 times. Just three days ago it was at -1/2 a quart from full, which is where it normally sits (if you go to full it burns the oil off or soemthing but then hovers at -.5 from full so i stopped bothering). This puzzled me very much as there was no oil anywhere on the ground. So i drove very conservatively to kragen and put in 1 quart of synthetic. I did not start the car and simply checked the oil, it was at the perfect mark! So the level went from -2 quarts to full with only 1 quart of oil. Seemed fishy to me. The only explenation is that sludge somehow blocked a crucial passage down to the pan and was pushed clear when the new quart was added. Any thoughts?? Dealership said it would be $125 to diagnose, and more if they had to go into the pan, which is probably a guarentee. So any help is great. 2. The oil pressure guage used to read at about 70% which is in the normal range but now it reads about 50%. I have not noticed any difference in sound or performance, but this still concerns me. Is it probable that the sending unit is bust and should be replaced. Or would it make sense that sludge has built up on the pickup. Or lastly, could the synthetic be running past the seals in the oil pump? (not sure if this would make sense because it started at 70% one day and then the next was at 50%, not gradual and not after an oil change). Once again any help is appreciated.