goodoldjam

Well here it is with the new P-trim T3 housing.This picture does the old T3 to much justice, That turbine is tiny. Now I'm messing with the wastegate adapter, trying to figure out the best way to hook it up to the manifold. I think I have a way to do it without welding but I'll find out in a second. ...Nope it's going to be welded on.

Glad to help some, hopefully it goes nice and smooth. Looking good so far, remember to take some more pics and show us how it turns out.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=158349 Sounds like it according to this thread. I can't 100% confirm it though.

You need to consider cost, source some premade 4" mandrel bends and open up that wallet. I can get 3" mandrel bends for a decent price. Go Crush bent 4" and you may as well say goodbye to the diameter advantage.

This is sitting still for about 15-20 minutes, since I'm still working out bugs. On a 90degree day with no intercooler and the stock T3 I seen temps that hit about 190deg, which was very close to the engine temp. Today it's 80 and now with a Intercooler with the stock T3, It was at 90 degrees and then I watched it climb to 115deg before I shut it off. If you felt the intercooler after running for that long it's hard to believe that it's reading 115. I'm thinking while moving that temps would be much closer to ambient Temps. My IAT is directly behind the TB.

I've been hearing that now that they capped it, they've been finding leakage from the sea floor. I guess they are afraid that it may erode the sea floor and make the cap useless.

Helpful sticky, I thought I was having reset issues and it looked just like every other log, turns out not to be the case. Acceleration enrichment was set to TPS and for some reason it is spiking. It basically was flooding for a split second and returning to normal. After doing that enough times the plugs would begin to foul and make it run even worse. Switched over to MAP based and problem stopped instantly.

Jacobs kit doesn't really work to well because it's the EZ kit, I picked it up at a swap meet for $20. It needs a second coil to trigger the box, so I just use the coil. It did put out some major energy though, you definitely wouldn't pull a plug wire while it's running. I've searched, I did see the "show your engine bay" but that's in the L6 section. I certainly like to see other swaps to. Unless your talking about a different thread.

Thanks for the update, I was actually looking at a carbon fiber panel on ebay. Well typed in RETRO-SPEC in the search and get the panel I was looking at. Username is apparently fazzt73. I have dealt with poor quality and damaged parts and this guy wont be getting my business.

I would probably reduce it with a piece of tube or find some sort of rubber ring I could slip over it to bring it up to 3". Kinda like this coupler ring that comes with this Here Slide it over and it brings a 2 1/2" to 3". Assuming you can reach the filler neck

I'm in the same spot, I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do. I already patched it shut so i need to think of something. I was actually considering something like this Sparco filler and door Here A little to expensive. Or something like this remote filler Both are a bit expensive, maybe something could be rigged up with one of the cheaper fuel doors. I'm also considering just shaving it and adding a fuel cell and just popping the hatch when i need to fill.

I remember talking about pipe length a long while back and the time it takes to fill was far less important than endtank design and inlet/outlet location. Obviously extra bends in the piping have a effect, also how sharply the turn the air takes. http://www.dvdtfab.com/intercoolertestlab.pdf This is a very interesting read, you can get a idea how placement and design effect how efficiently the core is used. This is also helpful http://www.extremeintercoolers.com/tech.html

Basically that's just a performance version of a MR-S. I would take a 1st gen Mr2 and drop 2gr in it and call it a day. 280hp engine in a car that would be under 2200lbs with lotus designed suspension and far cheaper.

I know i was wondering, What do I buy and what setup will actually work. I ended up going with a Center to Center a 22"x12"x3" Treadstone core, end to end it's 29" went this route because for some reason it was only $140 shipped. Ended up buying a cheap ebay pipe kit which was 2 x Straight Aluminum Pipe 2 x Aluminum Pipe 45 Deg 2 x Aluminum Pipe 75 Deg 2 x Aluminum Pipe 90 Deg 6 x Silicon Hose, Straight 2 x 90 Degree Elbow Hose 16 x Matching Stainless Steel Clamp The tubing is about 17 1/2" long And bought a 2" to 3" 90 Deg couple and had a foot of straight 3". I haven't used either Straight tube yet and i still need to take care of some issues, like the long coupler and the Intercooler definitely needs to be adjusted. I haven't pounded the wheel well and may need to get a better angle to the 90 deg coupler on the passenger side. This is what I've roughed in. Show us your setup.

I forgot to hook up quite a few of my grounds and the fuel pump would stay on instead of priming. Don't know if the injectors were open during this time. Found what i didn't hook up and it was back to normal. Probably a good chance it's just a wiring problem.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/91824-oil-cooler-is-it-a-must-have/page__p__870947__hl__oil+cooler__fromsearch__1#entry870947 Check that out.

If it's actually broken it makes a rattling sound at the front of the valve cover. It basically snaps off and then surfs on your timing chain. You can tell by the way it sounds, anything mechanical would usually be in sync with engine speed. The sounds it makes is random, the guide is just 2 bolts and is bolted down right behind the chain.

Went to Napa sure enough no 240z kit. Bought the 280z kit and sure enough same seals, 2 in a pack. So $5 VS $17 for 2 older kits, only thing you don't get is a new dust cover.

Hey i forgot to say that you should remove that top guide anyway if you open the valve cover. It's a known recall and will eventually break and Nissan says it's un-needed. That's if it's not already removed.

What I've seen twice is a broken upper timing chain guide, but it didn't effect how the cars ran. It does however make the engine sound like something is seriously wrong.

Basically a 2.5" exducer and scaling up to 3" exhaust, would it be that beneficial to go any larger than 3"? Though 4" maybe a bigger pain than it's worth.

Thanks for all the help deciding guys. Just got a .63 T3 housing for P-trim, it's actually a boxed garret part. I opened the box and thought no way it's big enough to fit over that turbine. Had to measure it right away and it is big enough. It truly plays tricks on your eyes when you see that huge housing then look at the dinky T3 turbine housing. I have the wastegate adapter and basically everything ready to install, just need to put on the housing. Should have it on by next week, if all goes well. Do you guys think i should go from 2.5" exhaust to 3" while I'm at it?

I tried a hammer at first and then moved to a slide hammer. A large slide Hammer seems to be far easier, you can either hook to the fins or could drill a extra hole in the drum. Start hammering on one side and move to the other and keep alternating. Worked out well, where the normal hammer seemed like a lost cause. Autozone loans out a crappy slide hammer i believe but i think it's only for pulling hubs and doesn't have any attachments.

Well one of wheel cylinders failed and I was thinking about replacing them but we all know the when you find a replacement it is expensive and it would make more sense just to covert to disc. So I decided a rebuild would be a fine temporary fix. Looking at the Napa site, the older kit is $8.50 a piece basically a seal and a dust cover. I was thinking that is a little expensive considering all I need was the seal and that's if they have it in stock. Question is do later dual piston cylinders use the same seals? One kit is $5 bucks and comes with 2 seals.

Compression braking wouldn't be a sign of either a stuck wastegate or a weak spring/low boost pressure. The engine is the only thing under no throttle which effects your compression braking. Remember that your turbo is doing nothing during closed throttle. The system is fairly small most of your testing could involve plugging possible leaks, like the sources junglist suggested.