VinhZXT

At last the owner of the 8th Nalle kit have contacted me. This is the car pictured on Zparts.com. Will give him a visit and post some pictures soon.

I have EFI Live software and I can reprogram the PCM. There is a small problem. Each Pcm will require 1 license and I don't have any more licenses. Each license will cost $100. I can do it for you guys but this will cost $110 for each PCM (10 for shipping it back to you ). I can program what ever you want in the PCM. Here is another option. Jesse at Wait4mePerformance can reprogram to disable the VATs, disable DTCs, change temp setting etc... for $40 + 10 shipping charge back to you. The problem is it's a one time deal. If you guys want to use the autometer speedometer and tach then you don't need to worry about messing with the gear ratios in the PCM. If you want to use the stock speedometer and want to go JCI's route you can actually play with the gear ratio and tire size in the PCM to give you the correct speedometer reading. Vinh

You can get an ODBII plug from any late model GM cars in a junk yard. It's dirt cheap and it requires 4 wires to hook it up. Ground, Battery, Ignition and the serial wire to the PCM. Yes I have it hooked up on both of my LS1 Z swap. If you want to read info or reprogram the PCM you will need the ODBII plug. GL V. Clive, You are just lucky.

This is what I've been trying to tell everyone on this forum not to do. All they do is remove a few unused wires and hook up relays, ODBII port and the idiot light and label all the wires. Does the car runs for 2 seconds and shuts off? If so have you disable the VATs? PS. Let me know ahead before you burn it. lol

You need to have a big red cable going directly from the + side of the battery to the post on the starter with the 9/16 nut. This is the main power to turn the starter. The purple wire is the power to kick the selenoid to engage the starter to the fly wheel. You also need a big ground cable going from the negative side of the battery to the block/head. If you hooked everything mentioned above then there could be 2 things: 1. Your battery is weak or 2. Your starter is dead. GL

That's about right. I've seen a couple stock fbody ls1 Zs getting 12s. I am going to do a head/cam combo on my C5 Ls1 Z and my goal is to get 450HP to the wheels. This should get me into the 10's.

Larry, lol.. Here is the PCM wiring pinouts that I save only the wires that have something to do with both transmissions. Most of these are for the auto trans. I remember there are 3 connectors on the T56 and they are for: Reverse lock out selenoid, Skip shift selenoid and the last one is the reverse light switch. The reverse light switch wires do not go to the PCM. So you just need to remove all the wires for the auto trans and hook up 4 wires from the T56 to the PCM for the reverse lock out selenoid and the skip shift selenoid. Important: Make sure you get the connectors to all the sensors/switches on the T56. GL Vinh Document ID# 1021267 2004 Pontiac GTO -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector End Views Table 1: PCM Connector C1 Table 2: PCM Connector C2 PCM Connector C1 Connector Part Information PCM Connector C1 92231110 80-Way Micro-Pack 100W Series Sealed (BU) Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function 17 YE 1225 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal B 18 GY 1226 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal C 32 BU/WH 771 Transmission Range Switch Signal A 33 BN 86 Cruise Control Release Signal 34 WH 776 Transmission Range Switch Signal P 53 BK/WH 2762 Low Reference - TFT Sensor 72 YE/RD 772 Transmission Range Switch Signal B 79 GN/WH or GY 898 or 587 Shift Solenoid Valve 3 High Control - Skip/Shift Solenoid Control PCM Connector C2 Connector Part Information PCM Connector C2 92231110 80-Way Micro-Pack 100W Series Sealed (GN) Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function 2 BN 418 TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Control 6 RD 1228 PC Solenoid Valve High Control Sol.A 8 GY/BU 1229 PC Solenoid Valve Low Control Sol.A 20 TN 1231 AT ISS Low Signal 21 BU/WH 1230 AT ISS High Signal 42 GY/RD 422 TCC Solenoid Valve Control 44 YE 1652 Reverse Lock Out Solenoid Control 47 YE/BK 1223 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Control 48 L-GN 1222 1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Control 51 YE/BK 1227 TFT Sensor Signal 62 GY 773 Transmission Range Switch Signal C 63 BN/YE 1224 Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal A -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Document ID# 1021267 2004 Pontiac GTO

Blown77, I bought a couple LS1 motors from Fparts also. Nice guys to buy stuffs from and they guarantee their stuffs. They are only 1/2 hour driving from PHilly. I was wondering why you didn't buy from the guys in Florida. Good luck with the swap. If you need wiring diagrams let me know. Vinh

I paid $350 with everything new except for the aluminum shaft.

You don't need to rewire the harness. The PCM connectors should have all the wires to support auto trans or the T56. For the auto trans the PCM controls the TCC (Torque converter clutch) and it needs the input signal from the brake. For the T56 I forgot what the PCM controls but it needs the input signal from the clutch. If you need wiring info let me know. I will have to go back to do some more reading on the T56. GL Vinh PS. I can rewire the harness also.

if you want to save money I suggest you go to a junk yard and buy a complete fuse box panel from the latest car you can find. It should have plenty of circuits, relays, Maxi fuses you will need for the entire Z. It's just a matter of finding the schematic diagram for that fuse box and then you can splice in what ever function you will use for your Z. I have this Service Information software which I have the wiring diagrams for all the GM cars. If you decide to go this route let me know and I will try to dig up the wiring diagram for the fuse box you plan to get. I used the underhood fuse box from a C5 Vette in my LS1 swap. I could have wire the whole car electrical system thru this fuse box but I didn't have time. So I only used a few relays for the fan and starter and fuel pump. Good luck. Vinh

Cameron, I think this tip would look good at that location. GL Here is the web site for it. It's not cheap.http://www.signaturespeed.com/ShowItem/100146%20Magnaflow%20Stainless%20Steel%20Rectangle%20Exhaust%20Tip.aspx Vinh

Congrat. The mounts look very good. You gave me some ideas to modify my mounts for my swap. However I am interest in seeing how you run the exhaust on the passenger side. V.

It will help clean up your engine bay even more if you run the harness thru the fire wall and keep the PCM inside the car IMO. The wires to your PCM will melt if you don't wrap them with some type of insulations if you leave it like that. Another thing is you can flip the fuel rail and eliminate the hoses running accross the fire wall too. GL. V. PS. here is a picture

Here are some pictures of the turbo manifold. This one has a T4 flange. The flange is close to 3/4" thick. If you really need it and can't find it any where send me an email with the right offer and it's yours. GL V. PS. Thanks Yasin for speaking highly of me. I visit this forum once in a long while now.

I have one that a friend bought it for me from Japan. I will post some pictures soon. How bad do you want it?

Is that the PCM sitting on the fender well? It will be too for the PCM to be mounted there and expose to the heat from the exhaust manifold. I hope you are not mounting the PCM there permanent. Other than that verything looks great. Sorry I couldn't provide the PN for the hoses. I bought several hoses from the parts store and pieced it together and returned the unused hoses. for my swap GL

Tim, Do you have the pig tail connectors for those plugs? Also what year car and model is the PNP from? it's looks like it's from a 4l60E trans. I can look it up for you. Send me an email to anh3pa@hotmail.com and I will send you the files.

There aren't many TAN wires on an Fbody harness. 1 is the signal for the oil pressure sensor and a couple more for the heated O2 sensors. All the sensors get signals from the PCM and the PCM gets feed back from the sensors. I don't understand why would he wants to connect one side to ground? I guess you can leave it the way it is and try to start the car up. Once the car is running you can find out quickly whether you have a problem or not by reading the DTCs off the PCM. If you need the wiring diagram let me know.

Brian, Your question is still very confusing but I think I understand it now. You will first need to understand which wires are inputs and which are outputs especially for the painful harness. This is how the 2 back up wires on the LT1 should be hooked up: 1 wire to ignition (input) and the other to your back up lights (output). Both of these wires are basically go to the reverse switch in the transmission. So it doesn't matter which wire is which. You can use either wire for input. So the answer to your question is yes you can bypass the painless harness to hook up your back up lights just as long as you can get the ignition source from some where to feed the switch (one of the 2 wires on the LT1 harness). Now for the 2nd question: Your LT1 harness has 1 wire for the fuel pump. This is the 12V output to the fuel pump. You said it is hooked up to the SpearTech harness thru a relay then you don't need the fuel pump circuit from the painless harness. Just make sure you hook up the Battery input and Ignition source input to the SpearTech harness. Does your SpearTech harness has the starter relay in there also? If it is you don't need the starter circuit from the painless harness also. You will need the Spec for the painless harness my friend. Otherwise it will become a PAINFULL harness. GL. V. PS. I am still confusing about your setup. Are you using the LT1 harness for inside the car and the SpearTech engine harness? Please shoot me a PM and I will help you out.

I don't see the driveshaft on that list. You will definitely need the driveshaft. I suggest you to get the pedal assembly also. There is a switch attached to the pedal assembly that used to disable the starting circuit. I cut the arm that holds the switch and welded it to the Z's pedal assembly. This will prevent accidents from happenning and it will require you press on the clutch to start the car. GL. V.

I had mentioned before on here. The stock ls1 EFI harness is already a stand alone harness. It requires only 4 or 5 power wires hook up to get the car running. I have done 3 ls1 swaps. 2 of them using the stock camaro harness and the other using the C5 harness. The stock Camaro harness is very easy to hook up. You just need to hook up relays to the fuel pump, starter, fans and the power to feed the injectors and coils. If you use the C5 harness it will be even easier compare to the camaro harness if you use the underhood fuse panel. Anyway I have info for both swaps on my web page.

You could have flipped the fuel rail to shorten the fuel feed line and will help clean up the fire wall a bit. I flipped mine and it looks a lot cleaner. Look good. V.

Where do you find the road to go 200MPH? It's traffic every where and the road is small. You will be lucky to go over 55MPH.

to go Ropongi Crossing. There's plenty of things to do there at night. Lots of sailors hang out there and lots of Jap chics. Check out Tokio tower also. Also check out that place where they built the whole city on top of the water (shown on the Discovery Channel). Sorry I forgot the name of the place. V.