VinhZXT

For the dash light not working: Check the big white connector under the steering column. Disconnect the connector and look for burned up connector. I had this happenned to me before. Power window not working: Open up your door panel and check for power to the motor when you push the switch. If there is power at the motor then obviously your motor is dead. Let me know if you need one. I have a few of them laying around the garage. Speedo going crazy: you have oil in your speedometer cable. Replace the seal at the transmission end of the cable and replace the cable as well. Radio doesn't work: Get a new one. Your brake light works fine. Just your running light is not working. It is tied into the interior light system. Fix the #1 problem above and it should be OK. GL

Look like it's time for a total tear down and rebuild. Do it right the first time so you don't have any doubts later on. Good luck.

Do you have sparks? I remember the neutral switch caused a no sparks condition also. No sparks therefore no fuel. Double check to see you can crank the car over and you have sparks. If you have sparks then the no fuel is a different problem. Try to connect 12V directly to the pump and see you can start the car. If it starts then trace your fuel pump signal back to the ECu to see where the problem is. GL.

The tranny wires you were talking about is what causing a no start condition. These wires go to a starter inhibit relay. Get a manual and find out which wires for which relays and you can by pass them by shorting them together. I have done this on a 280ZXT and I don't know whether they changed the design on the 300ZX. On the 280ZX you have to short 2 pair of wires together to get it started. Good luck V.

Don't forget to make a good fan shroud for your E fan.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/8 Here is some info for you. Hope that helps.

There are 2 mechanisms to prevent the shifter from shifting out of park. #1 is the cable. This cable hooks directly to the steering column and it controls by a mechanical device that only unlock when the key is turned. On some GMs cars I've seen this cable connects to a selenoid which releases when the key turns to ON. #2 is a selenoid right underneath the shifter. This selenoid will need input voltage from your brake switch. This selenoid will allow you to shift out of park when your foot is on the brake pedal only. On a stock camaro you will need to turn the key on and your foot on the brake to shift out of park. If #1 is controlled by a mechanical you can't reuse it on a Z. On my Z I used option #2. When you use only option #2 above it will only prevent you from accidentally shift out of park when the key is ON and your foot is not on the brake. This basically prevent your pets, kids shift the gear out of park while the engine running. However if your car is off you can still shift out of park. Let me know if you need any help. GL V.

The only wide body kit that I know of is the Kaminari wide body kit. They were originally cost like $2500. Sadly to say that body kit would need some modifications to make it look good on the ZXs. I would love to see you modify it and fit it on the Z but I doubt it would look right on the Z. Please show me some picture of the kit.

My other friend's Cobra with an SBC.. Enjoy the pictures.

Be very very carefull when removing them especially around the T-tops. Otherwise you will tear them up and pretty much become junks after that. GL V.

Go thru your assorted 3D nails. They should fit the holes nicely. The length for each pin is about 1". GL. V.

Yasin, The IC looks really good but it looks like you will have problem when closing the hood. I hope you can drop it down a few inches for hood clearance. I am assuming you will leave the air filter behind the radiator support. Can wait to see it installed. Good luck Vinh

Guys, I have a 4 wires O2 sensor. There are 2 wires for power and 2 wires for signals, 1 for low and the other is for hi signal. How do I hook this up to a stock 280ZXT ECU? Which signal wire do I use? THanks for any help V.

4/18/07 - Complete installing the C5 instrument cluster into the Z's dash. Still need a bit of finishing the surface of the dash before painting. This will be done later on anyway. Also completed my exhaust and begin to work on flaring the Cobra 1/4 panels. The original kits flared about 3" on each side. I will rebuild these quarter panels and flare them out 3" more on each side. While I am at it I will build molds for them too. I plan to make these flares and modify them for other use and it doesn't hurt to have spare parts just incase. Here are a few pictures of my progress. There are more on web page so please check it out. Enjoy..

I found a header on the Sanderson web page that might work on the passenger side for the C5 style mount. here is a picture of JTR header. (top one) Here is a new LS1 header sanderson is selling. Here is a picture of my modified C5 header that I used with the C5 style mounts. The new CC1ls1 header might work on the passenger side but it will be very close to the starter. If this header work it will work for both the JCI mounts and the C5 style mounts. Anyone want to try it out to see it works? Hopefully MikeJTR can talk to Sanderson to make new set of headers that will work for both type of mounts for the LS1, LS2 and LS6. I have the stock C5 header son there but I am willing to pay for some nice headers if they fit. V.

I've been looking to do this with my swap. I have the torque tube and the C5 rear end in my garage. I couldn't find anyone shorten the torque tube around here so I abondoned the idea. I still have the torque tube and rear end though. Looks like that guy found someone shorten and balance the torque tube for a reasonable price. Now if I can find some half shafts that will adapted to the Z's flange I will be golden. Thanks for the link. V.

Yes the oil filter is on the left. The picture was taken from underneath the car. I also noticed a few spark plugs wires were touching the exhaust manifold also. I didn't like that about the headers either. I used the stock C5 headers on my project and the spark plug wires did not touch the headers. I had a friend with this problem and he kept burning up the spark plug wires. So keep your eyes on the wires. GL. Vinh

C5 seats in my ZX. They are leather, powered and light weight and fit perfect in my ZX.

You are in deep kimchi. The JTR headers won't work with the C5 style mounts. The driver side works great but the passenger side will hit your C5 mount. I've made the same mistake on my swap but luckily I used the JCI mounts on my friend's swap. So I didn't loose money on the headers.

Dudeboy, You will have to cut one of the mounting boss on the driver side of the block to fit the header. It's the rear upper one. Sorry I don't have any picture. Actually I have a picture

Looking very good so far. I found chicken net is much easier to work with instead of foam. Something for you to think about and try it out. Good luck. I am attaching a couple pictures of my rear quarter panel and my dash that used the chicken net to build the structures. The foam will take a lot longer time to build compare to the chicken net IMO.

I was going to bid on it to put my ZXR back to original but the shipping is $50. Nah I skip.

Pop, I already mentioned about the trouble with exhaust routing with this oil pan on another post. There will be no room to run your exhaust on both sides. the stock C5 exhaust run on top of those wings and to the outside of the starter and oil filter. As you can see you have no room to do this on either side. On the passenger side in front of the wing there is an openning but that's where your engine mount is. On the driver side you have the steering shaft in front of the wing. This is why I am very interested in seeing how everything comes together with his project. In looking at pictures of my setup I don't see how you can run the exhaust under the oil pan. So your only option is to run on top of those wings and to the back. This means you will have to cut 2 holes at the bottom of trans tunnel to run the exhaust there. If I remember correctly the lower corner of the trans tunnel on the driver side is where your gas pedal sits. I can see you have some tought road to cross. GL

Hi Scott, How are you doing? I have EFI Live software and I've been messing with the temperature settings for the electric water pump and the fan. The stock LS1 fan setting is 190 on and 180 off. The t-stat is 180 degree btw. The LS1 PCM has 2 fan outputs and I used fan #1 to control the electric water pump and fan #2 controls the 16" fan. The 16" fan is at the stock setting 190 on and 180 off. For the electric water pump I initially had it set at 170 on and 160 off. I noticed when the electric water pump turns on it kept the water temp around 160 to 170 so the fan was never on. I remove the fuse for the electric water pump to see when the fan turns on and it sure did turned on at 190. As soon as the fan turns on I put the fuse for the water pump back and the tempt goes back down to around 160-170 and the fan stops. Now I had the water pump sets at 180 on and 170 off and it works great. Back to your situation I think your fan is turn on a bit late. It should be turn on at 190 and off at 180. Also I have 2 LS1 Zs and both have Griffin radiators. The one with the thick radiator cools down a lot faster then the other. I hope I am not wasting your time with my info. Vinh

When there is a will there is a way. If I were in your situation I will find ways to fit everything in there too. This will require some creativity on your part and good fabrication skills. I wish you good luck and please keep the pictures coming. PS. Maybe next project I will do something like this. I didn't realize you are in Rockville MD. Maybe I will drive down and check out your project sometime.