VinhZXT

Bartman, Thanks for the info. The reason for me to drop a GM sending unit in the Z's tank because I have the C5 instrument cluster in my Z. I just found out there is another problem with my set up. The C5s used 2 gas tanks and therefore they have 2 sending units. I just did some more reading for the C5s fuel sending system and found out that the PCM uses both signals to calculate the fuel level. So before I jump the gun and installing the GM sending unit into a Z I have to make sure it will work.

Here is the reason why: The autometer gauge is designed to use with most of the GM cars and the resistence range is from 0 to 90 ohms ( 0 empty and 90 is full). The Z sending unit is working the opposite. Its resistence range is from 250 to 80 ohms ( 250 empty and 80 is full ). If you are good with circuit design you can probably design it to convert the resistence range. However I think it's faster to just find a GM sending unit and drop it into your tank. I've been searching in the junk yards for a GM sending unit that will have the right size and height to drop it into my 280Z's tank. Please let me know if you found a solution. Thanks I've just search around Summit and look at what I found for you: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM-1906 Look at the upper right corner for other autometer gauges that used the same resistence range. I might be a little off with my range above. GL

There is a screw holding the switch assembly to the steering column. You can loosen this screw and slide the whole switch assembly up closer to the steering hub. This will allow the 2 studs from the back of the steering hub to hit those levers to knock the switch back to the center position. If you have an aftermarket steering wheel you will need to drill 2 holes in the back and install the 2 studs for it to work. Good luck

I got it running. NO I didn't fried the ECU when I was doing some welding on the car. It was the spark plugs fouling out. After a good clean job it fired up.

This is a 79 280ZX. Can the ECU be fried if I do some welding and left the battery hooked up? I just want to throw this question here to see this happened to anyone before. I did some welding on my ZX last night without unhook the battery. Tonight I tried to start it up and it wouldn't start. It has sparks and the fuel pump turns on when I crank. So the only thing left is the ECU not sending signal to fire the injectors. I have another ECU that I will try tomorrow night. The car was running fine the night before BTW.

I have wiring diagrams and pin layouts for all GM cars up to 2006. I have not seen the GTO harness yet so I can't speak for it but if you are working with the Fbody harness it's very simple. If you have cash to throw around then go with Spear Tech. If not send me an email and I will help you. You shouldn't have to worry about the PCM pin out if you are doing your harness. You should be worry about the 5 small connectors that came out of the Fbody EFI harness. I have detail information about these connectors on my web page. Yes when I first look at the PCM harness I freak out too. But when I see the EFI harness it was a piece of cake. So save your money. Now if you have a C5 harness that's a whole different story. If you are doing a swap using the 97-98 C5 PCM and you got it running properly please let me know. V.

If you don't have an MSD you don't need this module. Just check your wiring at the coil. On a turbo ZX it's a BLU wire at the coil. This wire goes thru a resistor and then to the tach. I am not sure how it is on a Z.

Since your car is a RHD I will suggest you to make your own engine mounts. This will allow you to move the engine further back. This in turn will help the exhaust manifold clear the steering shaft. Yes you can use the 97-98 C5 stock headers. It's not just a matter of cutting the lower sections after the collector. You will need to do something like this for them to work: Basically you will need to cut a wedge shape under each pipe and fold the whole thing in. Otherwise they will dump right into your frame rails. If you fold the headers close enough to the motor and slide the motor all the way back it should clear your steering shaft. Since your car is a RHD the drivetrain should be offset to the passenger side. This should give you the same amount space on the driver side of the engine for the steering shaft. If money is not a problem then you don't need to waste time with this obviously. Good luck Vinh PS. I might be going to Ireland next summer to visit my dad and will come to England for a visit. Maybe I stop by to check out your finished project. lol.

You said you can't use the JTR headers for your swap. If you don't want to pay an arm and a leg for someone to custom make the exhaust manifold I suggest you look into getting the stock stainless steel 97-98 C5 manifolds. They can be easily modified to work in your swap. Again these can be bought cheaply on Ebay. I have some info on how to modify them. GL V.

Are you talking about this? This is my setup. This is my friend's setup. If you go this route don't forget to start searching for a C5 air intake duct on Ebay. I have more pictures and info on my web site on how much to lean the radiator back. Oh yeah I just bought an extra one for my future LSx project for like 15 off ebay. The one I bought for my friend's swap was like $60. GL

I agree with Jbk240. I never like the designs of the JCI parts. The instruction is lousy. No customer service at all. The guy sounds like he doesn't need your business. Have you seen the nut serts that came with the CM? Those nut serts are a joke IMO. I am just glad I had no problem because my car was a 280Z. I feel the pain for you guys. So in the future if anyone has a 240Z I suggest you get just the engine mount from JCI and get the trans CM from JTR. You can get the headers from JTR at the same time too. Vinh

OK here is a picture of the CM in my friend's 280Z. Yes it's for the T56 Here is a picture of mine with the auto tranny and JTR CM in my 280Z. I got this CM from David BTW. The floor will need to be strengthen before bolting the CM to it regardless of 240Z or 280Z.

Don't forget the JCI kits was built for a 280Z to start with. I am not sure he even has a CM for a 240Z. From the look of it you can easily modify this CM to work with a 240Z. BTW I think this mount puts the rear of the transmission too high anyway. So by modifying it you can drop the tail of the trans down a bit to get it parallel with the original driveline. Good luck. Vinh

I guess I was lucky. I got the right CM for the 280Z the first time I ordered. I did spoke with him a few times before sending in my order. So I guess he knew what I had from the conversation. Sorry to hear you guys had problems.

Save your money on sending the harness to Speartech. Look at the post by HeavyZ at the bottom for wiring. Speartech does good works but the price is expensive. You can contact Jesse at wait4me performance for the reprogramming of the PCM. It's a lot cheaper. Just an opinion.

OK here is some more info on the blinker and signals but on ZXs. There seems to be 2 different systems in the ZXs. I believe the older ZXs used the same system as the Z which it used 2 flashers, one for the 4 ways blinker and the other is for the L/R signals. The later ZXs used a single flasher for both the 4 ways blinker and the L/R signals. My blinkers and signals aren't working so here I am again trying to understand how this thing works. Again this is a ZX I am working with and it has only one flasher and it is located above brake pedal. Here is how this system works looking at the 4 ways blinker switch: BLU wire - 12V Ignition input into the switch to feed the L/R signals. RED/WHT wire - Constant 12V input to the switch to feed the 4 ways blinker. GRN/YEL wire - 12V output to the flasher. GRN wire - This is 12V coming back from the flasher and it also branches out to the L/R turn signals. GRN/RED and GRN/BLU wires are output to the L/R signals. This is how the L/R turn signal works: When the emergency blinker switch is OFF and the ignition key is ON the 12V ignition is fed to the BLU wire and goes out to the GRN/YEL wire to the flasher. The 12V is fed to the L/R turn switch so it only power the L or R turn signal. Note: In this case the power is being drawn from the BLU wire. This is how the 4 ways blinker work: When the emergency blinker switch is ON the switch does 2 things: 1. Connects power from the RED/WHT wire to the GRN/YEL wire and disconnect the connections between the BLU and GRN/YEL wires at the same time. 2. Connects the GRN wire (coming back from the flasher) to both the GRN/RED and GRN/BLU wires So basically when the 4 ways switch in ON the 12V constant power is fed to the GRN/YEL wire from the RED/WHT wire. Which goes to the flasher, then 12V coming out of the flasher thru the GRN wire back to the emergency switch. The switch distributes the 12V from the GRN wire to both L and R side blinkers. OK so what was the problem that caused the blinker and signals not working? With the info above I disconnect the switch and check for continuity between the wires and I got nothing. I got 3 extras emergency switches and I test them as well and they were not working either. So I opened one of them and checked inside. There is nothing inside this switch except for a ball and some contacts and some old dried up contact grease. So I cleanup the contacts with sand paper and put some new contact grease on and put it back. Recheck with the continuity tests and everything checked out OK. Plug the switch back into the car and everything worked great. Hope that helps someone in the future with this problem. Vinh

It looked like you used a lot of fiberglass to custom make your interior pieces. I was wondering what you did to remove all the fiberglass odor? I fiber glass just my dash board alone and it's been sitting outside for a month and still stink of fiberglass. I can't imagine what it will do sitting inside a car. Thanks for any tips.

yes 300 sounds really good but who the hell sells a complete 280ZXT for 300 now a day? especially if it's running and with 70K. Keep dreaming. I just sold mine for $1100 and it has 63K miles with some cosmetic problems. The drivetrain and EFI stuffs could easily worth $500. Don't be too greedy. I have a guy locally here with 8 turbo motors sitting in his storage and he wants $1000 each and this is just for the long block without EFI stuffs. My suggestion to you is between 500 to 700 get it. The most important thing is do a compression test to make sure the motor is still healthy. The reading should be in the 140's PSI. Good luck

Is this what you are looking for? Here are the wires that I used from these connectors: 1. 2 ORN wires - 1 is the main Batt 12V to the PCM and the other is Batt to the air pump. Just to be sure I am hooking up both to the Batt thru a Maxi Fuse. 2. PNK wires - IGN feed. There are 5 PNK wires. 2 of them are for the 2 injector banks. 1 to the evap switch. 1 to the PCM. 1 to the transmission sensor and it's for the reverse light switch. All of these need to connect thru some type of fuses. Your choice here. 3. Thick purple wire - This is the starter wire. I hook this to the output of relay. This relay will get 12V from the ignition. The ground will be fed thru the clutch switch. That way you have to press the clutch to start. 4. GRN/WHT - Fuel pump relay control. This is a ground active signal and used to feed the negative side of the coil in the relay. 5. WHT - Tach 6. BLU - High speed cooling fan. 7. GRN - Low speed cooling fan. ( I don't use this wire but maybe some of you do). 8. All the ground wires are connected to the back of the heads. That's it. That's all you need to start up the car. Here are 2 more small connectors that carry all the sensors info 1. TAN - Oil pressure sensor 2. Heavy GRN and BRN wires - Reverse switch 3. GRN/WHT - VSS 4. GRY - 5V ref for the fuel level sensor. (Not used) 5. PPL - Fuel level sensor signal- (Not used) 6. GRN - PCM serial - connect this to the ODBII plug This is optional.(not used at this time) I ran the EFI wire thru the firewall. Clean up the stock wiring inside the car and look for fused wires that are now become unused after cutting out the old EFI system. I found 3 wires going thru the wiring harness that leads to the fuse block that I can use to feed the GM harness. BLU/WHT wire - Batt - Feed the ORN wires on GM harness WHT/BLK wire - Fused IGN 1 - Feed PNK wires to both INJ banks and PCM BLU/YEL wire - Fused IGN 1 - Feed PNK wires to the rest of the sensors on the motor and transmission You can see it doesn't require much wiring to get an LS1 motor up running. That is if you use the Fbody wiring harness. If you have a C5 harness that's another animal. I don't have any experience with the LS2 but I think it's similar to the Fbody except for it using the DBW throttle. You can see pics and more info here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/8

And here is my friend's Cobra Daytona Kit with an LS1 also: I did the motor swap for his car using the JCI kits. I am shopping around for a good painter for this car. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/8

It's very easy to verify your problem. There is something call hot wiring lol. Unplug the connector from the back of the ignition and hot wire them. If it starts then you just prove that your switch is bad.

Check your cold start injector. I had removed my cold start injector and I have the same exact problem in the cold (now). Your cold start injector is working thru a temp sensor switch in the T-stat housing. Check this sensor first. This sensor when cold provide ground to 1 of the pin on the cold start injector. Also check the other pin to the cold start injector for 12V ignition. Good luck.