VinhZXT

I assumed you have to remove the door and lay it flat to start with already. So finding a big rag to wedge the penny in there is not going to be a difficult task. Yup I've heard someone said to use brass but copper should be OK. I highly recommend weld the back also because when you grind the outside down it may not hold. Try it. GL. Vinh

No aluminum dash for me. It's impossible to put the C5 cluster into a square face aluminum dash. If I was going with autometer gauges then I would have gone with the aluminum dash. Making the Al dash is not a problem for me because I have this 10 feet sheet metal breaker in my garage. Hmm maybe I should start making these aluminum dash and sell them. Anyway here is a picture of the dash I am working on.

I agree with Jon on this one. I bought the bandsaw from HF and I have to say that it worth every penny. It doesn't matter thick or thin metal it cuts them all. Of course for thick metal you have to use the finer teeth blade. So my vote is the band saw. If you have more money get the bigger band saw. If you don't have money I would go with a thin cut off disk for that saw you have and take your time when cutting thick metal. If you put too much pressure it will eat up your blade quickly. Take your time and the blade will last longer. GL Vinh

Get something to hold a penny behind the hole then weld it. It works better that way. When you are done weld from the back too. Then grind it down. GL Vinh

I have the door glass you need. Email me with a reasonable offer if you are interest in it. Vinh

Yes I am surprise to hear this as well. The bottom of your rockers must be sitting on the ground if your tires rub the new lip. Here is a picture of mine with stock suspension after I cut the 2 1/2". You can see I have 6 to 7" between the lip and the tire. I might go back and cut another inch up if you are correct.

Cody, My emblem is not the 350z emblem. The 350Z emblem has the Z raised. I think it's just look bad. Mine is flush and flat and covers with a layer of acrylic. Yeah I will be happy to see people coppying my mods if you think it will look good. I have no problem with it. Also I agree that Guy's spoiler mod is very classy looking and very nice. Now if you didn't modify it and just bolt it on it would not look that nice. Again diferent people has different tastes.

The title says it all. The reason I post this here because someone contacted John Washington for one of these body kit. I was just curious would anyone else interest in buying/building these Cobras? If we have enough people interest in buying I will lend the kit to John to make molds and start replicating them. I know this would be close to impossible to get this to work but we will see. Here is my web sitehttp://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260 Here is the info that I gathered for these Cobras. You can see there aren't many of these kits around. Enjoy http://www.cardomain.com/ride/768663/9

Jon, You are correct on the depth of the inner fenders. Sorry I was incorrect on that. I just checked on my Z and you can cut another 2 inches above the arc and still would be OK. It you are going to cut it high than you will have more room in the back for the saw blade. It will not cause the saw blade to poke into the inner fender when you cut the top line. When I cut mine I used the air saw and it cut very well. If you used a jig saw just go with the finest saw blade so that it won't jerk and bend the fender. I haven't seen any sig saw blade that are finer compare to the air saw's blades. Good luck Vinh PS. I just notice you are in Seattle Wa. My friend with a Cobra Kit Z is in Seattle Wa. I will tell him to contact you and check out your project. He could use some motivations to work on his Z.

John, You misunderstood me. 1/2" is the first cut to seperate the 2 fender layers. The second cut is above the arc where the fender flares out. This should be 2" above the original fender lips. Another 1/2 inch above this arc is where the inner fender is horizontal. This is as high as you can go unless you want to remove the inner fender and move it up. Edit: I don't have a picture but you can see it in this video how high it is. http://youtube.com/watch?v=5HxZzcPJgYk&mode=related&search=

You guys are over complicating things. Most of you guys probably use it once and will never use it again. To me you don't need to spend too much time and effort into it. Yes I understand there is a safety issue involve here but you won't be working under the car right? That's why you build the rotisserie. I spent 2 hours and using metals I found around my garage to build my rotisserie. I used 2 metal saw-horses that I had in my garage to support the car. I just need to weld up the strong brackets to mount to the car. Then the whole thing just sits on top of the saw-horses. The saw-horses I got are adjustable in height. I've been working on my friend's Z and the Z been sitting on the rotisserie for a few months without any problem. Here are a few pictures. Man I better put on my flame suite now.. also you can see my friend here got used to working on the floor. Even with the rotisserie he is still working from the bottom. That's what you get for smoking too much lol.

John, You can add a few more layers of mat and resin to stiffen those flares up. Not hard to do at all. For the wheel arc I just did this task on my Z. According to the installation manual you do 2 cuts. First cut is 1/2 inch above the fender lips. the second cut is right above the arc (where it dips on the 1/4) but just cut the outside skin. Then cut the inner fender into 1" strips and fold them out and over the outter fender. Bend the tabs up and cut them to 1/2" short and weld them up. For matching the front spoiler to the fender flares you will need to visualize of how things will look first. Then make appropriate cuts on each pieces. Don't just hack off the flares right the way. Good luck. Vinh

Phantaz, Thank you for the compliments. I had this mod on my yellow Brucemobile 8 years ago and I tried to convience everyone to make this mod on their MSA front spoiler. I was very surprise not seeing more people doing this mod. As you can see it's simple enough and it improves the look 10 times. Kbhead, Here is the picture of the side vents I just cut the 3 stripes on the fenders. I bought the mess on Ebay and I forgot who I got it from. I am sure it's all over Ebay. You just have to make sure it's the pattern you want. I just clean the back of the fender real well and used bondo glass to hold it in place. Nothing secret here. The side emblems I got from some guy on Ebay as well. The emblems are JDM Z emblems. I've never seen these Z emblems on any Z before. They look perfect on the side of my fenders. I also trim the bottom inner bottom lip of the front spoiler so I can add the grill to protect the debris from hitting the IC. Without cutting the bottom lip the grill would not look normal. Vinh PS. everything was done prior to painting btw.

Just an update. The whole thing was a scam but I wasn't that stupid to fall for it. My wife contacted Ebay and got that guy's home number. She called the guy and he acted like he doesn't know anything. I told my wife to ask him if he is selling an engine or not and he said no and we just hung up. No need to waste more time on stupid people.

Guy, It's pretty easy to do. I just used 2 pieces of cardboards and let them sit on the front spoiler and lean them against the hood. The 2 pieces meets in the center line of the hood. Then I taped them to the hood. I just lay fiber glass mat and apply resin on the cardboards. I put like 3 layers of mat and try to lay them up as evenly as possible. Once the front piece is harden you can go back and work the 2 small side pieces. Once this all done I add more reenforcement fiberglass behind the front pieces where they meet the front spoiler. After that I just used bondo to smooth out the surface to get ready for paint. Here is a picture

Guy, Since you are still doing the body work I suggest you to modify the front MSA spoiler to cover the gap between the hood and the spoiler. This is what it looks like on my ZX with the same front spoiler. I know you are not a body guy but this is not hard to complish and it will look 100 times better. GL Close up view Back up a few steps and this is what it looks like on your car now. Sorry I used someone else's car from cardomain.

Looking good. I am in the process of putting a C5 cluster into my Z's dash. Should have some pictures up soon.

Thank you very much for the links. Just what I was looking for. vinh

This question is for the guys who are custom make your own dash. What do you plan to do with the top of the dash? Paint or cover it with leather, vinyl ..etc.? I am in the process of putting the C5 cluster into my Z's dash and I don't know what to do with the top of the dash. I have heard that if I cover the dash with leather/vinyl I don't have to prep the surface compare to as for painting. Also if you have glass and bondo and paint your dash will it eventually crack due to the sun keep beating on it? Thanks for any input Vinh

Guy, Nice work. I hope you used plenty of fiberglass mat and resin to bond them into the body. If not they will crack when the sun hit it over time. While you are at it why not bond the rear bumper to the car as well? Good luck Vinh

Check to make sure you plug in the crank position sensor. This is the sensor next to the starter. I knew someone with the same problem and it turned out that he didn't plug in the crank position sensor. GL Vinh

Thanks for the inputs. I will check it out. Vinh

It not cheap to convert it to the Fbody oil pan and that was why I cut and welded the wings. GL

Yo Jr, I just got a chance to look at your Cobra. Your front clip got a very high scoop compare to mine and your brother's Cobra. I think Danny's Cobra doesn't have the high scoop either. The high scoop looks really mean. I guess someone modified it to fit the air filter for the V8.

Guys, I am picking up an LS1 motor I just won off ebay. The motor doesn't have the transmission so I can't do the compression test. What are other things I can do to check to see if the motor is healthy? I am going to ask the seller to give me some kinda warranty on the motor. If not I will have to find a tranny to hook up to the motor so I can do a compression test. Thanks for any tips. Vinh Edit: Wait a minute. The LS1 starter doesn't bolt to the tranny. It bolts to the engine. Heck I will bring a compression tester, starter and a battery along. What is the compression readings on a healthy LS1 motor? Anyone?