VinhZXT

Joe, Thanks for the compliments. Even my blue Z still need a lot more work to be in any car show lol. Joe, You know how busy I am on the weekends so I will not promise you anything. I would love to go the custom car shows. That's where I learn tricks that I will use in my Z lol. This weekend I have Jon (another Z guy on this forum) coming over either working on his car or mine. You are welcome to come and join us. Jon is doing a turbo conversion for his earlier Z. This weekend I plan on pulling the LS1 out of the Z to finish up some stuffs. I will call you probably tomorrow or Sat morning. Take care. Vinh

Sorry for the misleading info. I wasn't doing this myself. I have both driveshafts and will bring them both to the driveshaft place. I was just wondering where is the ideal place to cut and mate both DS. I did a search and found some info about the 1/2 critical speed balancing so I will make sure I will ask the driveshaft shop about it. Again I have no idea where the driveshaft shop will cut both driveshafts and weld them together. That's why I asked here so that I make sure to mention where they should cut and mate the shafts together if they don't know better. Thanks for the info guys.

Guys, I am working on getting the driveshaft make for my LS1 conversion. I have the clutch LSD and I am using the 300ZXT flange and driveshaft. I was wondering where is the ideal place to cut the driveshaft and weld it to the GM driveshaft? In other words where do I put the welding joint? in the middle, forward or rear etc.. and what are the reasons behind it? Thanks for the info. Vinh

Thanks for the info. I was thinking installing in one in my LS1 Z also. For $24 I will probably pay more for the raw materials alone if I was building one.

Remove the positive battery post and clean them really good. Spray it with a corrosion protective coat and put it back and you should be on your way. I've been having this same problems on my 2 ZXs and it was the battery posts being dirty/corroded. You can't really see the corrosion but it is there. Just get the wire brush clean the post and it's back to normal.GL

No my friend you don't have to cut a hole in the door. You need to remove the glass first. Then remove all the 10mm bolts/nuts to remove the window motor and the arm and everything attached to it. You have to turn the motor and arm a certain way to get it to slide out of the whole at the bottom of the door. Then you remove the 3 10mm bolts to detach the motor from the arm. Becareful with that spring load thingy. You will need some muscle compress the spring so that the arm will mate back with the motor's gear. Good luck.

Thank you all for the response and the picture from Spdskr8. I played around with the Vette shifter today got it to fit into the Z nicely. There is a small problem that the Vette shifter is raised 3/4" above the mounting plane. This part supposed to be cover by the Vette center console. So in order to cover the raised surrounding part around the shifter I will be fabricating a stainless steel piece to cover it. I will not be using my stock center console. I also looked at the stock Z shifter and it could easily be modified to work too. But because I won't be using the stock center console so I ditched the stock shifter. Paz, If you happen to come to Philly please give me a call. I am not far from center city or the Stadium.

Paz, I have the Vette shifter too and I have not tried to adapt it to the Z yet. BTW my LS1 conversion is going into a Z not a ZX. All the switches are inside my trans. All I have to do is hook up the wire from the brake pedal to the selenoid so that it releases the shifter when you apply the brake. I will try to see the vette shifter can easily be adapt to the Z first. If it doesn't then I will look for one in the junkyard whenever I go. Thanks for the input. VRJoe is from Fort Washington and he is not far from you. I came up to his house once in awhile. Maybe we 3 can hook up sometimes at the Expo for some car shows or something. Joe been asking to come out to check it out. Let me know if you interested in meeting.

Hi all, Can I use the Z's shifter with the 4L60E trans? I think if I don't do any manual shifting I should be OK. If I do then I can't get to 1st gear. Anyone used aftermarket shifter for their 4L60E trans? If so do you have any pix installed? Thanks V.

you are in luck. I am doing the wiring for my LS1 into my 77 Z. Where you want to splice it in at? On the passenger side foot well there are 2 plugs I believe 1 black and 1 white (Not sure until I get home today). All the power wires coming thru those 2 plugs. On the 77 Z there is no Ign 2 wire. Usually Ign 2 wire is for blower, lights etc. Ign1 is for fuel pump, injectors, ECU and coil .. etc. For running the lights I would suggest you to hook it thru the ACC. If you want you can hook it to the Ign 1 wire. OK enough of that. Here are the color of all the wires you are looking for: Wht/Red = 12V input from Bat Blu/Red = ACC Blk/Yel = Starter Blk/Wht = Ign 1 Blk/Blu = Hot during Cranking only - Same as the Blk/Yel above. I got no idea what this wire is used for. What ever you do I would suggest you to hook up a relay and get the signal from one of the above wire. That way you won't put too much load on it. Good luck.

I know a guy in NJ here got like 10 turbo motor sitting inside his garage from like 10 years back until now. He also got a crap load of other Zs and ZXs parts in his garage too. He used to be an all Z repair guy but now he moved on to other cars and trucks. However he still got a lot of Z and ZXs parts which I know they are in great condition. I will try to talk him into selling a whole buld load to me for a price eventually. If you want his info shoot me an email and I can give you his number. I have heard from people deal with him before that his price was steep. Hopefully he is getting out of the business and willing to sell everything cheap hehe.

thanks James. Look like I will be getting this pump soon.

Just talked to a tech guy that rebuilt alternators for a living and he gave me the info: GM L terminal = L terminal on Honda GM F terminal = IC terminal on Honda. That't it. Oh and the rotation on the Honda is counter clock wise and the GM is clock wise. He said it doesn't matter. As long as it spins it will charge.

Not quite a perfect fit. I got the same ones and I had to use a wrench to put on a couple of the spark plugs. Also the chrome ones will turn into gold very soon.

Anyone used one of these fuel pump before? Is this another hyped up advertising fuel pump? I am looking for a fuel pump for my LS1 Z. It is still bone stock for now and I want to leave some room for improment later so I want to get a good fuel pump from the start. Thanks for the input V. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8041272341&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

ChemicalBlue, Here it is on my ZXT. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/721840/2

which location do you find these wires? If you have the wiring diagrahm you should be able to trace it thru and see what each wire connected to. it's very tedious and you must be patient. Good luck/

Darrel, Call me up or take all your locks out and bring to me. I can make them fit another key for you. Oh yeah bring a 6 packs over too while we're working on it. hehe.. If you want to go the cheaper way I have a bunch of Z keys you can use them on your car. I had lots of luck with old keys and old locks hehehe.. Where have you been? You never brought your car over for me to work on it? hehe.. I am almost done with my friend's Cobra. Then I have another Cobra to work on.

Hey guys. I have an SBC swap Z and trying to hook up the tach. I have a 280Z tach outside the car and I want to rig it up and make sure it works before putting it inside the dash. I need to know where are the other 2 connections on the back of the tach go to? I've read the JTR manual and it said to hook up the resistor for the 240Z tach but what about the 280Z tach? Do I need the 150K resistor? Thanks for the info guys.

Hi all, Anyone has a picture of the 4L60E tranny? I need to see where the VSS is(vehicle speed sensor). Thanks Vinh

David, which side did you had the problem with? With the JTR headers I had problem with the passenger side one. It was hitting my C5 mount. Looks like the JTR headers are the same header but being used on both sides. The headers I need will have to offset to the rear (relative to the center line of the header) and on both sides. If the passenger side one offset rearward too much it will hit the starter also. But then again if it hit the starter then everyone with the LS1 should have the same problem. From the look of these headers I think it will hit the TC mount on the passenger side. Anyone using the C5 mounts got any info on their aftermarket headers?

Hi all, I just did some searching and found these headers for the LS1 Z swap. Look like they should fit the LS1 swap with the Vette's mounts and JCI mounts. The collectors of the stock C5 headers are in the same location as these which is rearward offset. If you compare these with the JTR headers the JTR headers's collectors are offset to the front and they won't fit the LS1 with the Vette's mount (biscuits). I had modified my stock C5 headers to fit so I don't need to order these yet. However in the future I might change them out and go with these. So if anyone tried these out please send me some info about fitment and quality. Thanks V. scroll down to near the bottom of the page. http://www.rjays.com/Exhaust/snd-sbc-blockhuggers-01.htm

I have 2 of the same hood sitting inside my garage. I am selling one. Anyone interest please email me. Vinh.

Hi all, I am installing a Honda Accord alternator into my LS1 Z and I have a small problem. The GM alternator label the 2 sense wire as F and L terminals and Battery. The Accord manual labels differently: B= battery, S= Battery, IG=12V thru ignition switch and L=Charge light which is the same on the GM L terminal. So which one is the equivalent F terminal on the Accord alternator? Thanks for the info V.

Thanks for the info. That's what I need to know. I will weight my options and decide what I want to do. In the mean time I will check around for a radiator shop to see they can repair the surface rusts I have inside the tank. Thank you all for the response again. V.