VinhZXT

How about go back to what you have before and add one thing at a time and see which item actually caused it to ping. Basically baseline your system before adding more variables to the equation. That seems logical and alot easier than to mess around with your injectors or fuel maps or ECU..

Randy, Thanks for the info. I've tried it and no difference and I've figured it out. During the warm up period like you said it is in the open-loop mode and it dumps a certain amount of fuel in the engine and it assumed that the air regulator would compensate for the amount of air to get the RPM higher for a faster warm up. Well I took the air regulator off so there is not enough air going into the intake and therefore it's running rich during the warm up period. The thermostat should have nothing to do with this. The warm up cycle for the O2 sensor not the coolant because it is back to normal after the O2 sensor starts sending signal to the A/F mixture gauge. If I want to get rid of this I have to get a heated O2 sensor that will speed up the warm-up cycle for the O2 sensor. That will inturn unrich the mixture sooner.

Jj, You may want to check out this post http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=539141#post539141

That's great.. I am glad you fixed the problem. Trust me I 've been thru that road before and you can't describe the feeling. For the running lean under heavy boost you may want to loosen up the AFM spring a few tooth at a time and test drive it. Again I 've seen this problem before with my ZXTs also. I was trying to save on the MPG and increase the AFM spring. On normal driving condition it was fine but when under boost and WOT about 12PSI it leans out. The good thing was I mark the wheel inside the AFM before I changed it. So I put it back and it was back to normal. Good luck.. PS. I've seen quite a few of the 280ZXTs ended up in the junkyard just because of the ECU plugs were bad... Many many and many shop would never ever find out this problem. lol.. They would think the ECU was bad or the AFM etc.. Now you know lol.. Oh yeah don't forget to check your timing too.. I just realize you are from San Diego. I went there for work several times at the shipyard near Gaslamp. Next time I go there for business I will give you a yell and you can give me a ride in your Z and show me around San Diego . lol...

Hi all, I have a friend who has a Ford C4 3 speeds auto tranny and it won't kick into 2nd or 3rd gear. There is a vacuum selenoid in attach to the tranny and there is 2 vacuum lines going to it. He has only 1 vacuum line hook up to one of the line to the selenoid (or vacuum diaghram) and the other is capped. Anyone have any experience with this tranny? If so how should it hook up? Thanks for any help

Bastard// yes clean and grease it is 2 minutes but 5 minutes later it will spits and sputter again.. Trust me I know.. I got the plugs from a non turbo 300ZX. They are direct fit. The only one thing is you have to cut up your 280ZXT plug to get 1 or 2 pins out and plug them into 1 of the 300ZX plug. Sorry I forgot which one. You can do a comparision between them and you will see a couple of missing pins from the 300ZX plugs. There are more wires on the 300ZX so some wires will not be used. Good luck

Sabum, sorry for hi jacking your post. Jersey, Yes that the VCV used to screwed into the 4th runner of the intake. The same boost pressure will be on both sides of the valve so it will not open and allow the air bypass into the intake. You don't need much of an opening to release pressure. Have you check the manual boost controller? a tiny hole about 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch can release a lot of boost from your turbo. Poj, If the BOV works exactly the same way as the VCV then why waste money and time to install it? The VCV is a lot easier to install comparing to the BOV. Also when the VCV sucked open it will only suck the air coming from the compressor. If you take forever to shift then yes it will eventually suck all the air from the IC and pipings. If you shift quick the air still should filled up in the IC near the throttle. As soon as your compressor start spinning again you should not have that much lag. On the other hand if you put the BOV right before the TB then the BOV will release all that cool air that was passed thru the IC. So when you open the throttle the compressor has to do more work to push the air thru the IC again. This topic been talked for awhile and noone is right or wrong. This is just my logical thoughts. Same principle with when people installing the IC and then move the air filter inside the engine compartment. I've talked about that on Zcar.com and I doubt anyone even care about that because it is just too much trouble to put the air filter in front of the radiator after the IC install. I did some local driving in my 280ZXT and after 1/2 an hour the underhood temp. was really high and my IC pipes coming out of the compressor was so hot. To a point it could burn my hand if I leave it on there long enough. My IC pipes are aluminize steel and I was glad I went with that instead of aluminum. Again this is just my logical thinking and I am trying to get people to understand. Cheer... take care.

I've seen many people installing these expensive aftermarket BOV on their cars and I just don't understand why? I would save that money for other meaningful upgrades. All you really need is that VCV valve if you don't want boost build up in the IC. IMO the aftermarket BOV is made to actually keep boost buildup in the IC and only release it over a certain boost level. That way you won't have boost lag in between shifts. Here is a picture of it that I used on my car with the N47 intake. It is that small thingy on that rubber hose from the J pipe to the intake. BTW the VCV is vacuum and boost activated.

This problem happened on both of my 280ZXTs. I ended up getting the 300ZXs ECU plugs and splice in and cured the problem. This was after countless times of cleanup the connectors and put conducting grease to them. Problem still intermittent so I replace the plugs altogether. You might want to openup the ECU to check for crack around the solder joints. I've seen crack in the solder joints around the pins which could cause this problem and may not be the plug itself. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Wow this makes me feel like I should get started on my Cobra Daytona Kit ASAP. Any chance you can post some photos of the rear end of the car? Can you send me photos of the alpha1 dash? My email address is anh3pa@hotmail.com . BTW very nice idea with the vent on the 1/4 glass. I love it. Thanks

Briguy, Do you have all the mods documented for the swap? Where did you get the mounts?

I would love to have a meet. Doesn't matter cruise or at the track. I used to go to ATCO race track. Never went up to English town. Would be nice to go there to see what it's like. Please keep my email address on your list and let me know if you guys going to get together. Thanks Also sorry for the none related subject post.

Spark, I saw you rnewly painted car. Nice color. For the antena I bought the electronic antena which mount on the windshield. This antena works awsome compare to the stock antena. Plus with this antena you can cover up the hole inthe back. Here is a picture Here is a picture of my newly painted car BTW

Sabum Where in PA are you at? I am in Philly.. It would be nice to get a few more turbo guys around here to hang out with. Jersey and Zero, where in NJ are you? I work in S. Jersey.

My 280ZXT doesn't have any sensor on the intake. All it has is the temp head sensor. I want to bypass this sensor so that the ECU always thing the car is warmed up every time I drive it. The reason for this is I only drive this car in nice weather only. Since I don't have all the air regulator, AAC and EGR etc... I can't compensate for the extra fuel. Therefore my car will run rich on warm up. I would like to eliminate this by hook up a 200 ohm resistor accross the temperature head sensor. Anyone got any solution for my problem? Thanks for any info.

I didn't know you have the A/F mixture install or not. If you have it then you can tell right the way the O2 sensor is bad or not. You should have kick yourself in the butt for not getting the A/F mixture gauge lol.. Congratulation on finding the problem.

EvilC, Yes I will take the yellow 240Z in the picture. That's the one with the SBC and the Vette rear end. He has another 280Z that he said is suppose to be in good shape and he wants 1000 for it. This car was burried behind all the machineries and I couldn't even get near it. He also have 2 other junkers that he wants to clean out also. He is keeping a red 240Z with everything original and low VIN #. Give me time and I will check out the 280Z for you. When he clean everything up I will take pictures. This guy was serious about Zcar before and lost interest for now so he wants to clean them out. Don't worry I have a 280Z shell that I bought 5 years ago that has very little rusts on it. If I use this 240Z to make my Cobra Kit car I will have to sell the 280Z shell and the LS1 motor. I go to NY city all the time. It's not a bad of a drive. My other friend also have a spyder 240Z that he wants to get rid of too.. Let me know if you will take a trip down. Frank, If my Cobra Kit fits a 280ZX I would stay with a 280ZX lol.. I have 2 280Zs already and will be taking this 240Z home soon. If I end up using this 240Z for the Cobra Kit I will have to weld metal back to cover the sunroof.

I have 17X7 in the front with -3.5 inch back space and the tire fill up the fender nicely and it has plenty of room between the strut and the tire. You can definitely put up to 8 inch wheel in the front. I have 17X8 in the back and again still have plenty of room between the strut and tire. You can go up to 10 inch in the back if you can find the right offset.

Thanks guys. I will go look at the car today. That guy also told my wife he got a low VIN numbers 240Z that he bought it from California and shipped it over here. I will try to get the nubmers on the block. If it doesn't have the Vette rear end I don't want it. EvilC, He wants 5K for it. Staledale, yes SpyderZ is me also... I was at work.. and didn't want to change the account

Here are some pictures of the car. Can't see the rear end clearly but it does look like there is some modifications made. http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-car.JPG http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-engine1.JPG http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-engine2.JPG http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-under1.JPG http://server3.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-under2.JPG http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-under3.JPG http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-under4.JPG How much should I pay for this car?

Staledale, I've been emailing the owner (Mike) of the Cobra. He's been contacting Rick Nyerlin ( I think that's his name). I also emailed Rick N. before and I think he didn't believe me that we have 5 Cobra Zcar base Kits here. Anyway I have a little time today and snap some photos of my friend's (Danny) Cobra. http://server3.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-cobra1.JPG http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-cobra3.JPG http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-cobra5.JPG The first time I saw this car in my friend's (Sang) garage I fell in love with it and I said to myself I got to have one. I got one now but it still in bits and pieces. I will take some pictures of the kit this weekend when I have time to sort everything out.

Great information guys.. Thank you very much for your time. I am sure when it's time for me to do this task I will be asking more questions. Thanks again.

Joey, I have not been up to date with all the info on this site about the LS1 conversion. I will check out John's mounts. Pete, I said "truely straigth" but I know it's impossible to make it straight like an arrow due to many other factors like Tim said. I just want to understand the techniques you guys used and I will do my owe evaluation to which one to use so I can get the driveline straight as possible to minimize vibrations. I have not seen many of the V8 guys talked about this and I was just curious about that. Thanks for the info guys...

Staledale, I see that you are from central PA. Where in PA are you at? Harrisburg or Carlisle? My friend Sang used to go to the Kit car show in Carlilsle PA. That was where he picked up all the info about these Cobra Kit. We plan to go to the Kit car show this summer too. I will contact you if we go and we will check out your projects. Pete, Please double check with your friend because my friend bought a red Cobra last summer from the same guy in VA. The car wasn't completed either and my friend paid around 13k for it. It has a Ford 302 engine and sidepipes. the base Zcar had some rusts but it was not that bad. The only thing I didn't like about it was it came with Corvette round tail lights. The kit I have has the small 3" round tail lights just like the original Cobra. I agree with you that the Cobra kits for the Z do not look like the original. To make it look like the original you have to do a lot of cutting and welding especially around the door area and then you have to worry about the concave rear glass. I've been looking into that also and trying to figure out how I can do it so that it will look like the original Cobra. I will do 1 thing at a time and I will start on the cleaning up the underside of the body first. Take care of all the rusts and then strenghtening the frame rails. Then I will work on getting the LS1 drivetrain in there. Then the do the body and modifications if necessary. Anyway this will be a time cunsuming project and it will take a lot of times. I don't know when I will complete it. Again I will try to take some pictures of my friend's Cobras today and post it on here. Take it easy everyone.

Hi Spot, I'd painted my hood for my Z and when I took it home I saw white haze spots all over the hood sort like clouds. By looking at it I know it is in the clear coat. So I called up my friend who mixed the paint and clear coat for me and found out that he add a little more hardener to make it cures faster because it was cold in the boot. Anyway I had to sand down the whole hood and repaint it and I did it when it was warm outside. Sould like you may have to bring it back for a repaint.