ZT-R

and on the 7th day, God created HybridZ.org... i love this place

thanks for your response john, but i would rather hear from people that have actual experience in the matter... :lol:

hey guys, i have an aftermarket 10.5mm fuel rail. what is stopping me from drilling that to 11mm for aftermarket injectors?

i will be at some point, i really want to the the car running before i start selling anything though. if your in no rush that might work for ya. my sister lives in greenville, i'll be going up there around the 26th of feb but i dont think i will be running by that time.

well, i have been slacking off. Currently fabricating a surge tank and tinkering with some fuel stuff. fixed my window regulators so i can roll it outside during work hours. Got the radiator mount fabbed up. here are some pics of it. unfortunatly i live in a small town so finding parts and stuff is next to impossible so i took (2) 1/8 2" angle brackets and weldeded them together and had 2" flat pieces and welded them together... be cleaner if i had some 4" channel and 4" flat stock, but it will suffice

swapped a r230 rear end in there.

these

only bailouts

is 16 gauge aluminum thick enough to make a surge tank out of? I am thinking of building one to house my 2 pumps inside the surge tank and "mold" it to the shape of the fender well.

anyone?

I am trying to find 2 rear inner lower control arm caps. i am removing the stock differential front mount and need these to hold up the control arms.

dont let it fall of that damn chair ahahha, set stuff on the floor, cant fall off the floor..... unless you have more than one story

i believe there is a plug under the rear turbo, not sure on the size. some say they dont have it but mine did

i have that sandwich. make sure you get one of these http://www.rawbrokerage.com/RB-Oil-Filter-Stud-Direct-to-Block-nissan-oilfilterstud.htm i havent gotten around to my oil pressure sender but if it is 1/8npt (not sure but i would assume it is, but assumptions get me in trouble) you could use this http://www.240sxmotoring.com/1gaad.html http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-1164098593086_2139_66998794

i think i will cut it and reweld it just to keep things clean

what did you do, just cut the flange off straight, then section out like an inch and then weld the flange back on? do you have pics of your cars grill with the intercooler behind it? i am trying to figure out if i want to mount my intercooler as far forward as i can or back in the back like you have it.

Here is some progress pics... Polished the center cover, welded 12an bungs on valve covers (not pictured), welded -10an bung on the bottom of the intake manifold for the air regulator, bead blasted steering rack, rebuilt with new rods and boots, installed the ACZ lower control arms i had on my tube chassis 280z, ran all the plumbing, bent the front oil drain lines so they would fit, and so much more i cant even type now im so tried ... next up fuel lines, and modify this intake manifold so it will clear the fender. i could wack it with a hammer one time on the fender but i think i will take a band saw and cut the manifold 1/2 way though and bend it out then weld it up.

that is the dumbest thing i have ever seen on this forum. 1st buy a Z, then buy a rb, then worry about a twins and a super charger... if you drive the car with the factory rb26 you will soon realize you have bigger issues than a lack of power. and its "roots style"

what in the sam hell kind of thread is this on the rb26 intake air temp sensor? it will only tighten up on a 1/4 npt at the head so i dont think that is it. plus my plugs that are 1/4 will not fit into the oem manifold. i need to weld a bung on my manifold for this....

no rest for the weary derek

yes i am, please pm me

found what i needed at rawbrokerage.

crap, i got my greddy one in today but the fitting has female threads and the "nipple" that screws into the block and the other end of the factory oil cooler slides onto is not threaded like this what thread size is this that screws into the block, i took it out. 8an threads seem to hold it on pretty tight so i guess i could get a male to male union....

you should cut the flange off a rb25 and take it to a machinist and let them cnc some replicas with the gasket grove and make them thick, that would be top notch not knocking anything, just like to always improve on things, then again thats $... are you having the flanges milled/shaved after welding?

hey guys, r33 rb26.... on the white connector that is "unused" i see that 2 wires are running back to the ecu. its pin 56 (Throttle sensor output signal red/yellow) and pin 30 (Sensor Ground (throttle sensor / engine temp sensor) which is black/ blue stripe). what do these do? can i completly cut this "dash harness (white)" out and remove all the wires?