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mario_82_ZXT

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Everything posted by mario_82_ZXT

  1. Nice pics! I might consider doing it that way on my car. What size intercooler are you running? Also, Pyro, I don't understand what your BOV is doing, it looks like it's still venting into a charge pipe... Mario
  2. Maybe you had a big bubble in the cooling system? I had something like this happen in my NA except that it was one of the lines that goes to the heater core wasn't fully tightened, and would not leak unless it got up to operating temp. Maybe check your hose clamps as well as a precaution? Mario
  3. I opened my mouth too soon... This is what I was looking for (I knew I had seen it online somewhere, but when I tried to find it I couldn't so I ninja edited my post since I don't know how to delete them). Sorry for the waste of space. To contribute, it's at the bottom of this page: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm Mario
  4. Chrome places in town here will chem dip parts here to remove old chrome before rechroming. Maybe call one up to see what they suggest? Mario
  5. Could you build that with any turbine or does it have to be a huge compressor? It just so happens I have a spare T4... Mario
  6. Have you tried to rev it now that it has cooled down? It could also be ignition related. Mario
  7. Jeez you work fast! Looks awesome! Mario
  8. Car belongs to this cat: http://www.zcar.com/forums/profile/1/30538 Email him.
  9. What is the consensus on the settings for running the HEI module for ignition like the sticky? 50% fixed duty dwell with inverted spark output or not? There is also a setting that says "Minimum for HEI 4" but it makes my tach go crazy when I let off the gas under load. I just want this info in the forums because I have searched and found nothing except for one post that says 50% fixed and inverted. That's how my friend's car is set and the HEI runs hot. Mario
  10. Take your HEI to NAPA and have it tested. It is ridiculous how ESSENTIAL the HEI module has to be grounded well or it will cook. I had one die because the key was in the "ON" position and I unbolted it from its ground. When they die they give off spark for a little bit then just die off. Then eventually they don't do anything. Mario
  11. For the shifter bushings on the side look here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html The bottom one, just buy a new one from Nissan. The reason your 3000GT clicks and clunks is because isn't it a transverse engine? If so that means that the shifter has a linkage like most FWD cars, causing that feeling. Compensating for something? You can cut it at the bottom and have a new piece welded on or you can get a shift boot like most people do. Haven't heard of a "fat" shifter that's a direct replacement. Mario
  12. Holy crap!!! Being a B13 Sentra owner too I'm completely speechless as well!!! That's CRAYZEE!!!! Mario
  13. Drop the turbo stang engine into your Z and part out the stang Good luck with your project! I've seen some pretty impressive 2.3l turbo mustangs Oh, and congrats on the baby! Mario
  14. A lot of the Mazda's use a god forsaken auto trans made by Ford. The problems with them have been posted all over the web as a major issue, which is what stopped me from buying a 626 when I was looking for a beater. Like stated above, if you're at all mechanically inclined, check out the removal and installation procedures for the trans and maybe swap it out yourself with a jy unit. Mario
  15. Since it's a 76 you should be able to power up the pump by putting the key in the "ON" position and pushing open the AFM's flap. Mario
  16. No gas in the tank? Bad idea. The inside is probably heavily corroded. I heard you're supposed to fill the tank then put fuel stabilizer in it if you're going to store it. Can you look inside a 76 tank at all? If so I would take a peep inside, and if it's bad have it hot tanked and refinished (cost me like $100 in Flagstaff). Also, add a little Marvel Mystery oil (I heard ATF works good too) to each cylinder from the spark plug hole and let it sit over night to try and unstick the rings if they are stuck. Good luck! Mario
  17. Same thing happened to one of my friend's... We had to reload the firmware initially to get it to talk to MT when we first got it, and after a week of running around (this car hauls a$$!!!) it died and I can't reflash it or make it respond to anything. We're waiting on DIY to see what we're gonna do with it. Mario
  18. Hmm, I've never heard of that TPS problem. Seems quite odd. You're running MS-II right? On the VE tables, just do yourself a favor and get the WB. In 4 drives (and a broken/repaired front diff mount and rolled fenders later...) we have my friend's turbo 77 running 13 PSI without a hitch. Sounds dead sexy and even spins the drag radials hitting 2nd gear at 10 PSI! If you're set on using the narrowband, I think some people really like MegaTunix's tuning capabilities, you just have to make sure your O2 is in good working stated (not laggy or irresponsive). Maybe give that a try. Good luck! Mario
  19. If you copied a lot of the settings here (like Moby's and also one of the first JPEG ones), I have found that the TPS settings are too sensitive which causes the accel enrichments to trigger. I really want to get MAPdot to work but can't, after fiddling around with the TPSdot for a while, I got it to work pretty nicely, just mess with the settings and see if they work! Mario
  20. How does your fuel filter look? Your tank could be full of crap and the pump could be having a hard time trying to pump all of it. I was running lean and the pump was going crazy when my inlet filter (fram G4) got full of crap. Mario
  21. Dang! Talk about not being able to lay down your power! On my stock L28ET swapped 280z I ran a 14.4 with a blown head gasket... Mario
  22. Cool cool! I had seen that before and considered getting it, but the funds have dried up. It seems much easier and "idiot proof" then trying to build and tune the circuit in the MSnS-E page. Keep us updated on how it works! Mario
  23. Do they make UV activated ink pens? You might be able to paint the numbers/lines/etc. I know they sell UV activated paint, but if they sold it in a "pen" like a sharpie it'd be much easier to draw over the gauge. Just a thought, Mario
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