Jump to content
HybridZ

mario_82_ZXT

Members
  • Posts

    1447
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by mario_82_ZXT

  1. You shoulda put a negative option for some of us in school Mario
  2. Clogged fuel pump inlet, screen, or filter, or clogged injectors. Sounds like it goes lean. Of course this is just speculation unless you look at your plugs or get the WB running. Mario
  3. Sounds really nice! It's not as raspy as my straight pipe. Mario
  4. Stock boost. Smoke was caused by washed cylinder walls in 3-4 (injectors stuck open). After I replaced those 2 the car was running awesome. Sadly a few hours later, injector 4 started coming apart (huge fuel leak between injector plastic and metal body). Went lean on a 3rd gear pull and seemed to have blown it between 5-6 (both cylinders are dead). I'll know for sure tomorrow after a compression test. At least the car didn't go up in flames... The easiest thing for vids is to just throw them up on Youtube or Google Video. Mario
  5. Pfff who cares about the vid you're gonna have to take me on a ride in it BTW I popped another headgasket (after I fixed the smoke issue ) Mario
  6. That was awesome!!! You need to lower that Z! It looks like a friend's of mine with a L28ET and some nice mods. Probably running close to 12s but looks like a 4x4 hahaha Congrats on the 11s! Mario
  7. Where are you going to school?!?! This is awesome! Mario
  8. Looks great! I love it when the YZ kit has the sugar scoops incorporated in it... Is this the car that is getting the TT v6? Mario
  9. That looks great! Even though it is rated at 5 watts, tube amps are generally more efficient (and normally require more efficient speakers), and that's probably why it feels so loud. I love tubes, I fell in love with them listening to a tube radio in Mexico when I was a little kid. I'm currently rebuilding said radio (it's a desk top unit) that was my grandfathers. I also plan on building the following: http://www.s5electronics.com/l16stereo.html (16 watt tube amp, but modified with everything except the tube sockets and transistors mounted upside down, allowing the tubes to stick out the farthest through the enclosure like your tube amp). It's going to need one of these: http://www.s5electronics.com/lpre.html So that I can use my vintage turntables (old directdrive Kenwood and a fully programmable Fischer). And I'm thinking about one of these to complete the package: http://www.s5electronics.com/ltone.html Their old 8W unit gets amazing reviews, and considering the price of new, and even vintage units, I rather build my own. Now to get the money to do it... Any sound samples? Mario
  10. Does the slave move at all when the pedal is pushed? You might still have air in the lines, or a hole somewhere letting air in and fluid out. If there was moisture in the brake fluid and it's been sitting that long, there's a good chance the cylinders are pitted, the fluid ruined, and the rubber slave hose rotted and expanding. Mario
  11. I think he's the original owner of streeteg's car. Holy crap that 510 is drop dead gorgeous!!! Mario
  12. Hahahaha I knew NU grads weren't really that smart (I used to go there and hated it...) Mario
  13. Now just throw a 1/2JZ on there or an RB and call it a Z... err... day Mario
  14. Have you set MegaTune to use the wideband O2? (this is now done in the installer). You also need to put in a new switch point (2.5v is stoic). Also, the outputs on the LC-1 need to be reconfigured for 0v=10:1 and 5v=20:1 (I think, the MT installer and documentation have the values on there). Mario
  15. Doesn't 280zforce have them on his 280z? I think all you would have to do is fit the side (either by grinding them down) or cut it in half and extend it until it fits. Considering the fit of a Type 3 airdam I just helped a friend install, it wouldn't surprise my if you have to do this anyways on a 240z... Mario
  16. Someone told me they beat normal mode in 6 hrs straight... Why are games so short now dammit?? Mario
  17. That's what I meant for the hose. I read about the o-rings in the L28ET fuel injector upgrade thread, but it's good to know it's not needed. I use the stock insulators and mounting hardware right? Is there a place to get the connectors as my Bosch style ones don't look like they will fit... Mario
  18. This is the last thing I do to my L28ET, if this fails I'm ripping it out and declaring it junk. It seems like injectors 3-4 are stuck open. So much so that they are washing down the cylinder walls. The car runs pretty well at higher rpms, but will run like crap if turned off then back on in a short amount of time ( <1hr). When I removed the plugs, those 2 were the only ones not a nice tan color, and they reeked of fuel (not oil). From what I have gathered so far is that you need a smaller lower seal (does anyone have a part number/description?) and a slightly large hose to slip over the o-ring (I know you're supposed to use an o-ring fuel rail but I've heard of people running them like this). Is that about it? I will be able to retune my MS easily with my WBO2. Thanks, Mario
  19. There's a front and a mid sump, but I guess it is far enough back that some people call it a rear sump. I believe the 1JZ supras came with the rear sump. Mario
  20. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/chevy-302-help-4624.html Another way to build one. With an LT4 3in crank (large journal) and 5.94" rods, then you can choose the compression ratio with the heads using a 4" bore block. I'm going to see if I can find one of these locally. The stock LS1 redline is 6.2k rpm but I've heard with upgrade valve springs and retainers you can spin them close to 7k rpm. Woldson, I'm in Tucson AZ, but if you still need me to call you I will Mario
  21. Nice!!! What's left (other then reassembly) to drive it? Mario
  22. According to Eaton, an M90 (which is oversized for our engines) takes about 1/3 hp to turn with the bypass active at 60mph. How does the air flow through the Mercedes S/C with the clutch off? Mario
  23. PS Do you have to use those pistons? They raise the compression to 11:1, which seems quite high for pump gas. Or is that more for period correctness? Is there something lower that might support forced induction or giggle gas later that might be more easily found? Thanks, Mario
  24. An upgraded rear bar with a stock front will make the rear more "happy" and eager to step out of line. Mario
×
×
  • Create New...