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mario_82_ZXT

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Everything posted by mario_82_ZXT

  1. The MAP sensor senses ABSOLUTE pressure. While we may think of the motor being under vacuum at times, in reality it is still under atmospheric pressure. MAP systems don't like insanely loppy cams or other setups that have erratic vacuum, I think you'll be fine with the stock ITBs. Mario
  2. I blew my head gasket the same way! Except mine was exactly under a runner and you could of sworn it was the exhaust manifold... After I put it all back together I am getting terrible blow by on all the cylinders... there's like 2 things left to try but if mine's toast I'm saying bye bye L... Maybe throw in a VG30DETT? Mario
  3. Drop the SRT-4 engine in the Z! lol... Nice car! Mario
  4. I've always wondered the same thing. I wanted to try it with UV EL wire and just make a ring around the gauges. If you use the LEDs, maybe try to incorporate a diffuser to get a more even glow. On a side note, isn't real UV damaging to the eyes? Mario
  5. With this new forum, I've recently become very interested in dropping in one of these Toyota engines into my car since there is a very high probably my L28ET needs a rebuild. So far what I've found is that 2JZs and 1JZs are available in front and mid-sump, yet I hear of some people mention rear sump engines. Are the pans and pickups custom? The one that has really struck my fancy was a 1JZ-GTTE. I can get one for about $600 plus shipping, just engine, turbos, manifolds, and some wiring (doesn't matter, I'm megasquirting it). It seems that the Supras that came with this engine come with the mid sump (or rear... should we call it middle rear? ) I want to keep the engine basically stock (except engine management and a front mount), is it possible to fit the exhaust on the passenger side for the TTs? Would 2JZ mounts work on the 1JZ? aka could I use someone else's design (since there are a few 2JZ swaps already) to mount it in? Now on the transmission, of course I want a manual, but from what I have read, only the 1JZ-GTE (singe turbo) came available with a manual. So I need the bell housing from that and it should be a straight swap with an R154 5 speed right? Are there any other manual transmission choices (I think the weaker W58 is one? I need to check if that ones even available in the states...)? Lots of questions, sorry for the long post... Mario
  6. The fixed duty cycle was for running a 4 pin HEI module, not the VB921. By input and output of the VB921, do you mean inside the case? What would pin 36 be considered (this is what is plugged into the neg side of the coil and is supposed to control it). Like I said the o-scope was showing a square wave magnitude 3.5v when cranking with the coil disconnected. With the coil connected I couldn't see anything, just a drop from 12v to 9.5v, but the automotive o-scope doesn't have as high of resolution as a "real" one. Anyways, I wired the HEI module using the FIDLE circuit (like oldschool ) and car now fires up and is timed. Now for tuning... The HEI seems to get quite warm though, I need to get my Z running and compare it. Mario
  7. Found it, 50% fixed duty to run the HEI. Mario
  8. Also, what fixed duty should the dwell be set to when using the GM HEI module? Mario
  9. Hooked up an o-scope to the Pin 36 cable disconnected from the coil (this is the wire that is supposed to trigger the coil) and I get a square wave with the magnitude of 3.5v. So I think the VB921 is working right. When it is hooked up to the coil I get 12v with it in the "on" position and a drop to about 9.5v when cranking and no wave. Is it dropping down too much? Still no spark, I'm going to try hooking up the FIDLE circuit to an HEI module and see if we can get it to run like that. Mario
  10. Oh yea the box was a premade MS230-C from DIYAutotune, and we had to reflash it (has 029v on it now) before it would communicate with my laptop. Mario
  11. We just finished wiring a friend's car yesterday, and it's my first MS-I v3 install with the VB921. During cranking we see RPM and both LEDs flash (and so does the spark output box in MegaTune) yet we are getting no spark. It is wired up like the DIYAutotune schematic as we are using the VB921 to directly drive the coil. I have triple checked the wiring, spark inversion, dwell, everything, and we still have no spark. Is there a way to test the VB921? The only thing I have gathered so far is to get a voltmeter and flick the ecu on and make sure it's reading above 0.5v. Is there any other tests? (Like the gate test for the HEI module?) If we can't get this to work I'm installing the spark through FIDLE and using an HEI module like the v2.2 install. Thanks, Mario
  12. Looks great! I'm looking hard at turboing a 2JZ-GE and dropping it in my Z. Still doing research on what has to be done. Looks awesome! Mario
  13. I believe they were designed for N/A applications. Even B&G recommend to only use them as a last resort. Mario
  14. Jeez how can they put it on the lift wrong??? I work at a shop and so far Zs are some of the easiest things to rack up unless they are modified way low (then you have to get creative with a jack)! I hope you found a competent shop and I would stay away from the other one... Good luck! Mario
  15. Thanks roostmonkey! I'm going to contact him. I might also have a hookup through my job... we'll see... I think it may be down to an RB or SR, if I had more money I'd go VH with a manual transmission... (maybe after college). Curse you parts availability!!! *shakes angry fist* Mario
  16. This is one of the few cars that the sedan looks better then the coupe. It looks good from some angles, and rather bland/funky from others. The commercial calls it lightweight, how much does the sucker weigh? Also, fully loaded it costs over $30k!!!! Nissan has quite a few cars in the same segment competing against each other I think... Mario
  17. Too far and too pricey! That's why I was looking at the Rb20s, they are pretty damn cheap and make the same power as a stock L28ET (for arguments sake) but rev higher. I'm loving the SR20DE in my SE-R Sentra, but damn if those tiny motors weren't commanding such a pretty penny... Again the RB20 is way cheaper and sounds a lot nicer too. I also have access to a Nissan crate engine KA but you can never make a nice revvy one... Turbo parts aren't too expensive either (JGS manifold is like $400). And it sounds like crap compared to the SR or L series... I just need a bare engine! I can do the rest really! (lol) Mario
  18. How on earth do you guys do it??? I can't find anything on craigslist (unless it's domestic), and searching for anything RB related on google gets you like a million worthless results... I'm just looking for an RB20DET and maybe the transmission (I believe it's the same as the SX/SR tranny, need to check on the bellhousing pattern though...). No ECU or wiring harness needed, turbo included a plus, but I've got 2 already that I could slap on there temporarily. I'm pretty sure I toasted my L28ET and I want something revvy and fun, not going for all out power, just "funness" to drive. It'd be rewired and MS'd so no need for stock electronics... Any suggestions? I'm sick of having "smokey the lung cancer causing Z" for my fun car. Thanks, Mario
  19. I just got a 93 SE-R Sentra for $750. It's fun as hell to drive and gave me 27 mpg city last fillup. Going from Flagstaff to Phoenix (which is a lot of high speed down hill sort of driving) I hit 39 mpg!!! 140 miles flat highway with the rest city netted me 32 mpg! The A/C doesn't work but man I love the mileage. Car sounds sick too with the blown exhaust at 7500 rpm. Get something fun, like an old GTS Corolla or something, that's my opinion. Mario
  20. Most black injectors I have ran across are aftermarket. The stock ones for NAs are green and tan, while the turbo ones are maroon. The black ones I keep hearing about were bought from either Autozone or Sherco (sp?) automotive. Mario
  21. Ah yes sorry, for some reason I thought it was called something different in the v3 board. But yea, if you have the flyback board installed you don't need the resistors. Mario
  22. If you have the resistors I'd run them so that you don't have to mess with PWM settings, unless you have a flyback board add-on or the high current driver circuit in the v3 board. Mario
  23. It's practically instant unless you're burning a whole MSQ at once or a firmware file. Mario
  24. Glad you're OK! We've lost 3 modems, 2 routers, and 2 phones to lightning up in Flagstaff... Mario
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