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mario_82_ZXT

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Everything posted by mario_82_ZXT

  1. EDIT: Looks awesome! Thats really cool that he contacted you. Mario
  2. Try looking around in the lower or upper rad support, i'm going to see if I can fit mine somewhere around there, or just mount train horns near where the battery goes Mario
  3. Top Gear is for shear entertainment mostly... It's not really a true car magazine type show, and I love it because of that... Davyz the Hamster is all right, pretty much fully healed, and co-hosted every show in this season that just passed. This season didn't have as many cars and stuff, but it was HILARIOUS Mario
  4. I might be interested... Looks like a good candidate for a bare bones install with MS and a stripped down otherwise stock (engine wise) Z. Mario
  5. With the usual burn out I see haha. Sounds very mean, can't wait to see more progress on it! Mario
  6. You can use an aftermarket one with MS. Lots of people do this when they run aftermarket fuel rails. The stock one is fine too. Mario
  7. cough finalgear.com cough
  8. Nothing at all? Is this not the right section? If it matters the smell is more apparent after hard left turns... I don't want to seal my tank up and make it liable to explode if I get rear ended... Mario
  9. I don't think it's really worth it to you because I heard that HP wise the RB20DET is comparable to the L28ET but you're already pushing quite a bit on your engine... I've considered getting one and making it rev to 10k rpms haha Upgrade for you would be a mild RB25 at least. Just my $0.02 Mario
  10. What is plenty of oil? Did you actually look at the dipstick? Checking for boost leaks can be a pain, go through all the intake piping and check for disconnected, cracked, or ripped boots, hoses, etc. Some people have built nice boost testers, basically a big plug with a pressure gauge and a compressor fitting. They pressurize the intake and listen/feel for air hissing out. If it's boosting 3psi then it's probably a boost leak. Also check to make sure that your wastegate actuator moves without binding/stopping. It could be sticking open. Mario
  11. You also need to weld on an adapter for the throttle body of choice, and do all the linkage stuff. The diesel engines had no throttle body and no injectors IIRC. Mario
  12. What's your engine setup? Sounds vicious! I love how you have a racing mirror, sheet metal dash, gauges, and a cd player hahaha Mario
  13. Sounds like something's up with either the computer or the communications, not the MS box itself since the car still runs. Can you try it with a different computer? Also got any info on your setup? I've never heard of an MS box with no serial port. Mario
  14. Could you go at least CHECK the oil leven, not go by what the gauge says? If you were romping on it with low (or non-existant) oil level there is a chance you could have seized the turbo, which would cause no boost and terrible engine response due to exhaust restriction. Mario
  15. Click on user name, then click Send _____ a Private Message. Mario
  16. I heard that's what killed the "real" short shifters for Zs, and now we just don't have anyone that makes them... I also think it's wrong if they don't test them at all, and still charge what seems like production part prices on a prototype, especially if it ends up failing. Mario
  17. The number I've heard thrown around is 35mm. Not 100% sure though... Bryan, has that intake been run yet? Mario
  18. Weird I wrote a post last night but it didn't show up... Anyways, it goes something like this... I found Zcar.com when I was researching Zs when I was getting my license. Posted, liked the people, and stuck around (this was back when Blue, Tony D, Stonehenge69, and some other older guys posted a lot, and the forum was civil). Now it's full of n00bs that want everything spoonfed... and so much politics!!! I lurked here for about a year (drooling over a v8 swap), and finally joined when I decided to MegaSquirt my turbo Z. I still frequent both forums, but mostly post here. This place just has an awesome attitude a a wealth of info!!! Mario
  19. I tried looking for that chart! I knew it existed somewhere... Also, I believe it was Mack that had a "rev limiter" type problem and it was indeed his ignition module, not the coil. Its something to check for sure though... X64v, setup were you using for spark control? Mario
  20. Hahaha. Funny thing is my dad got hit by the Z bug HARD! He's been wondering whether to drop my MS'd ZXT engine in his 76 280z or to fix both of them up Then we both chipped in and bought my mom a Mazda Miata and we can get away with almost any car project now Mario
  21. I've always thought and used BPR6ES-11 since I believe that's even in the manual as being OEM. There used to be a nice chart showing the naming but all I can find is these crummy text only ones: http://www.kaila.net/tl125/tl125ngkcode.html http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/NGK.txt Anyways it shouldn't be a problem with nice resistor plug wires (which I'm sure the NGK are). Veritech, what spark plug gap are you running? If you have a weak ignition system (like X64v), you could be blowing it out under load. Or you could be so rich under load that it causes it to blow out. Mario
  22. FYI these are non resistor plugs. You're probably ok since you have nice NGK plug wires, but if you start have noise issues or resets it might be good to switch out to resistor plugs (BPR6ES I believe). Mario
  23. http://zcarparts.com/shows.htm Isn't it still going on??? It better be dammit I actually have a chance at going this year (small one at that...) Mario
  24. I know he recommends a specific master cylinder for his products. I've driven a Z with no booster and I didn't think it was bad at all, I don't know how it would be with all the AZ Zcar products but if my booster fails I'm definitely making a spacer to delete it (stock brakes now though...). Mario
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