mario_82_ZXT

Yea I saw those... Those bidders on eBay are smoking crack... Mario

It probably has heater/defrost, but no A/C. I wonder if that's a reason our Miata was so cheap... (black on black from Phoenix). I wonder if it will sell... Mario

Looking sharp as ever! Congrats! Mario

Looks great! One question, why'd you swap the speedo and RPM gauge? Mario

You could do everything that box does with an MS-I 2.2 or v3 box. Does look fancier, and the line that says comprehensive technical support is quite interesting... Mario

I had this problem a few weeks ago and it ended up being a defective cell in my new battery. Sometimes it would crank over perfectly and others it would act like it wasn't getting fuel. I think the voltage might have been dropping enough that some things weren't working (ECU or injectors... not sure which). Mario

My dad told me about it a while ago cuz he saw it on TV too, but I couldn't find it anywhere... I might be using it this summer. Oh how I want a single color Z Mario

It's going to sound like a demonic swarm of mutant wasps Looks great! Mario

Phil your coil might not be up to it's task, or maybe the ignitor is going out. I've heard lots of good things about the Z31 Turbo coil, maybe your friend that is helping you with the tuning has one in all the parts Zs. Mario

I agree, even ran as fuel only, MS-I with the MegaSquirt n Spark -Extra firmware is the way to go. Just lock your dizzy advance or swap in a turbo dizzy and go for fuel and spark control! I felt the 2.2 board is easier to assemble then the newer board (if you're building it yourself), but the newer board is "fancier" and it is easier to access it's outputs when you start adding stuff with the MSnS-E firmware. Mario

Can you hear/feel the injectors clicking when you try to start it? OR You can get an injector noid light to check if they are getting a pulse from the ECU. Mario

Warmed up idling or driving? When I had the original O2 hooked up to MS, the sensor would never get warmed up enough while idling to send a signal to the Megasquirt box. On the other hand a slow reacting sensor can be a sign of an old/clogged/failing O2 sensor. Mario

Looks awesome Bryan!!! Let me know when you're gonna fire it up! I'll drop everything and drive over Mario

Those are the eBay ones. On eBay they were selling for $75 + 15 shipping. Those are still v-belt though, not serpentine. Now that I think about it I think ZRaceProducts has ones thats a damper and serpenting belt but it's like $420... Mario

I believe that closed loop on the stock ECU is only under light loads (I think just cruising, no boost) fully warmed up and below a set RPM (which is somewhere around 3.5k RPM). The O2 sensor also has to be fully warmed up since it is a single wire sensor. I'm pretty sure the FSM has guidelines to what should put the ECU into closed loop. Mario

They are all lubed, it just seems that the "L" doesn't move enough to "crest" the mechanism and unlock sometimes... The FSM doesn't have detailed pics of these parts either... Mario

In a thread a while ago I think it was Tony D that posted how the L20A used a solid crank pulley, and that the L28 seemed to go through dampers a lot faster then the L20A and L24 when subjected to high RPMs for extended periods (or more like that's what I understood of it). I'm planning on selling my MSnS'd 280ZXT and used the money to MS and supercharge my 78 280z and MS and turbocharge my dad's 76 280z (yes dropping in the old ZXT motor would be the best bet but we don't have a place to store the ZXT to part it out). Anyways, I want to run a full serpentine belt system (6 groove mininum) and I remembered AZ Zcar offering a serpentine belt pulley set, and the crank pulley was a solid and sleeved aluminum pulley. What happens if you don't run a damper? I've seen a video (I think it was on the autospeed.au website) where they hit a crank with and without a damper and the damper made a huge difference in vibrations picked up by their instrumentation. Should I wait until that eBay damper is actually being manufactured and just attach a serpentine pulley to the front of that? I need to start figuring out the pulley dimensions as I hope to finish this project in the summer. Suggestions welcomed, thanks, Mario

They sound awesome! Mario

Ok, this is for the locking mechanism on a 78 280z. The outside door lock cylinder has an "L" that swivels when you turn this key. When it moves it moves part of the locking mechanism that is connected to it with a square hole. To get this working back in December my dad said the "L" part was missing a bushing, so we put some tight fitting rubber hose over it. With a little wiggling this was enough to lock and unlock the door. It seems that this has worn enough now to allow me to lock but not unlock the door... So my question is, should there be a bushing on the "L"? Should there also be a bushing around the square loop that the "L" is inside of? How the heck do you adjust the locks? Right now they lock perfectly, but you have to mess with them to unlock, wiggling until the mechanism goes over a "crest" and unlocks the door. Ideas? I need functioning locks! If I had the money I'd go keyless (already found a DIY remote control relay board...) Thanks, Mario

Match your 30s and race you 10inches. This is really getting out of hand... Mario

Looks great! Did you design it? If you did you should probably make a run and sell them on here Mario

Check your battery connections for corrosion, and also the connection to the starter as well. Though since it does seem to start eventually, check your ignition switch, as it could be worn as well. Mario

Sounds like you might be blowing out your spark, which can be caused by too much plug gap, too much fuel. weak ignition system, or a combination of these plus more. What's your gap set at? Mario

Didn't someone throw their's in an oven and baked them a bit to get them flexible and reshaped them a little bit to get them to fit better? Or am I loosing my mind? Mario

I keep looking at pictures of white Zs.... Argh I can't decide which color to go for... Nice looking Z! Mario