mario_82_ZXT

Oops... Well for the price of the MSA one I'd buy the PDK one. Mario

Looks like the old PDK brace... which I can't find pictures of... I'm pretty sure it was PDK that made one like that... The new one is sweet! http://www.pdkfabrication.com/Front%20Strut.htm Mario

If it's caused by the door there are little switches in the rear part of the door jam (on the car body itself, not on the door). Sometimes these get bent, or are worn and no longer make full contact. I put like 2 washers under one in my ZXT to get it to stop ringing too. Mario

I've never heard of them cracking but I've heard of them warping if they aren't installed right. Mario

I don't remember the wiring but it should hook up like the original (you need to make sure the stock tack resistor is kept like stock or else you can burn out the tach). Awesome to hear its running right! Mario

Sorry, lack of sleep + programming for several hours has been killing my brain... It might be ignitions related then... how do your plugs look? Mario

Well, I'm now getting a terrible fuel smell and leak after hard driving my Z. It looks like the hoses at the top of the fuel tank in the 78 Z have finally cracked, and last I remember they either cost an arm and a leg or were NLA. Since this car will be MS'd and is registered where no smogging is required, I'd like to get rid of this garbage... So what do I need to do to get rid of it? Take the expansion tank out, leave a line from the top of the tank to the filler neck to get rid of bubbles, and put a filter on line in the front (where the charcoal canister was at)? Or cap all the lines (except have the one between tank and filler neck) and drill a hole in my gas cap? Mario

How are you powering the pump? For a non EFI car I would use a relay with a feed from the battery, controlled by the MS box, with some nice wire to the rear. Have you tried swapping the supply and return lines? In your tests it might show it flows enough but at the same time you could really be straining your pump causing it to sometimes work and sometimes not. Argh new problem in my car... I'm leaking fuel out the back... damn evap hoses... Mario

Ok, lets try a different direction... You're using a narrowband O2. It is possible to fool a narrowband. A sudden way rich condition (such as a misfire) can show up as a lean condition on a NBO2. That is why you can't really tune with them, and I remember a while back (before WBO2s were this cheap) that people recommended the O2 sensor AND a EGT gauge, so that you could cross check conditions between gauges. I'm thinking your spark might be cutting out. It could be a dying ignition module or coil, or too much spark plug gap, semi-fouled plugs, or just running way rich in your fuel map. Mario (I couldn't stop by on my way down because I left too late, but at least I'm closer now, though I have midterms this week)

The MS'd ZXT was doing this a while back, and it was due to a dead (dying) HEI module. If the HEI module is NOT properly grounded or cooled it will give erratic outputs and eventually quit working. You can take the module to NAPA or probably other stores and they can plug it in and test it. Improper ground and cooling kills these things like none other... Mario

I've seen urethane ones, I don't remember if they came with my Illuminas or if they're generic... I remember for my ZX that the boot and bump stops came together. Did the deteriorate from old age or are you bottoming out a lot? Mario

They are all interchangeable. I *think* around 1977 they switched to the gear reduction starter which draws less amps and I believe is smaller then the non reduction starter. They all work, but I like the gear reduction one because I can find them easier. Mario

Sender = Water Temp GAUGE (without it the gauge needle doesn't move) Sensor = ECU Water Temp (has nothing to do with the gauge) You need the SENSOR. They output different resistances (almost 100% sure on this). Get the FSM or even a Haynes or Chilton and look at the wiring diagrams and make sure you ohm out the pins for the SENSOR and CHTS at the ECU to make sure your harness is intact. I believe the Haynes manual has a testing procedure for the sensors. I KNOW the FSM does. Good luck with it, I think you're close. Mario

There is a "sender" and a "sensor". The sensor goes to the ECU, and I'm pretty sure it is used in calculating fuel. Just because the sensors work (ohm out correctly) doesn't mean the ECU is recieving their signal. My CHTS was good but the WIRING was bad. Yes I fixed them at the same time, and then replaced the O2 and it ran way better. MPG went up as well. Mario

In AZ sometime's they'll slap you with a ticket about resource usage. It doesn't go on your license or anything, but it basically says you were using an unnecessary amount of resources accelerating... Mario

Don't get an O2 sensor without fixing the CHTS and the water temp sensor. Both are used in the calculations of fuel mixture! If you put on a new O2 with these other sensors out of whack you'll foul the O2 sensor FAST! (Read my post in your other thread) Mario

Do you have the FSM? If not, contact a zcar.com member by the name of Scared0o0Rabbit and ask him for the address of his FTP server. I believe he has the FSM there to download. I had this problem on my ZXT when it was running the original ECU. What was the problem with mine is that the harness from the CHTS was broke, so I had to run new cables, and the the water temp connections were filthy, so I cleaned those up. After that the car still ran rich and it was from a dying O2 sensor. After that the car ran 100% better, but soon afterwards I installed MegaSquirt.... Mario

I think it's your fuel supply line. Many people have problems using the stock feed line on injected engines with originally non-injected cars. It's a simple fix, switch your supply and return line (make the supply line the bigger of the two). I've heard of this problem with both MS'd and OE injected cars (L28's swapped into 240z's and 260z's). Apache Junction is on the way from Flagstaff to Tucson right? If you want some help I'm heading back to Tucson this weekend and could stop by if you want. Mario

Mine are on alternating using both INJ driver circuits wired like stock with OE resistors. Since you're using the 240z tank, what line are you using for fuel source and return? (sorry if you answered that earlier). Many people switch the source line to the return line since it is bigger in diameter in non fuel injected Zs that were converted to fuel injection. Mario

Doesn't look like my dad's 76 or my 78... I think it's aftermarket. Maybe you can measure the thread and find something that'll fit? Mario

I posted this in your other post but will do this for completeness. The turbo ECCS only requires the TPS (switch, not sensor) to have continuity during idle, which I believe is the middle pin and that closest to the cabin. It has an O2 sensor for closed loop and a preprogrammed map for WOT, so it does not require the last pin in the TPS. Mario

The TPS is two wires, and it is only plugged in between the 2 pins that make contact on idle, which I think is the middle and one closest to the cabin. You can ohm out the temp sensors, I don't remember if the ohm values are in a Haynes or Chilton but they are definately in the FSM. Check the O2 sensor as well, the computer in the turbo models was smart enough to adjust fuel as needed. Messing with the AFM probably allowed it to idle and rev since the water temp sensor is out of whack and is one of the main compenents in deciding fuel mixture if I remember correctly. Check your wiring harness, there is a step by step procedure in the FSM that tests all mosts bits of the ECCS system without the nifty tester. Good luck, Mario

The first control module is the "amp" for b!tchin' betty. Dunno what the second one is though... Good luck with the tar... I'm doing that soon in my 280z... Mario

Maybe the pump is cutting out or the power to it is? Or your fuel system could have chunks flying through it (rust chunks from the gas tank). Mario

Nope, the flash applet and video loads from Youtube's server's, not Hybridz's. Same with pics, unless they are "attachment's" or hosted in the photo albums section, they don't use any of Hybridz's bandwidth. Mario