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Showing results for tags '280zx'.
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Hi guys! I'm new on here and to cars but hopefully I'll catch on quickly. I originally bought my 280zx to convert it into a 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO but have recently scrapped the idea because I have neither the money nor the knowledge to do such a dramatic transformation. Now its just being turned into a car to take to the drag strip, which hopefully doesnt make too many of you cringe in horror but it's better to wreck a $1000 dollar car than one thats worth at least 8 to 10 right? There is a lot more rust on it than I thought there was. The previous owner had it for a year and left it outside and the guy before him had it sitting in his garage for 5 years. If nothing else it will be a good learner car. As far as i can tell its all stock, manual and not the turbo version though id like to put one on one day. As for damage so far, somebody tried to steal the front bumper (when it was in that guys garage) which ruined the air dam cause the tossers didnt know about the 2 bolts connected to the fenders which are damaged too. Rust every where im finding out, hole rotted under passenger seat, rust bubbling up around the top of the windshield, the usual rusted on nuts and bolts (better get a dozen cans of WD40) and a mouse nest on top of the engine. Its just a track car but I want the little lady to look respectable, though I bet that will be a challenge going to a drag track with a mostly stock Datsun. I'm there to have fun and go down the track not beat anyone, though that would be a bonus. The plan is to keep most of it stock since im on a pretty strict budget because i would like to attend an auto mechanics school in the fall. She's already undergoing severe diet surgery since that is one of the few things im capable of doing on my own. My roommate is a mechanic and he told me the first thing i need to do is get a race brake booster which will be priced out today, and if its affordable enough, purchased. I'll worry about the rollcage later because its not going to break the 12 second barrier let alone the 10 second. Unfortunately its not run yet because there is no battery which will also change today. Still have to drain the several year old gas as well. Can anyone tell me how to get rid of all the vacuum lines for the fuel injection system? Id like to minimize the amount of stuff in the engine bay. Also is there a better, inexpensive ecu I could put in it just to limit things and make it more effective? Hope to hear from you guys. Pics to follow. Thomas
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I have a 76 s30 280z with the toyota 4 piston calipers installed up front and stock drums in the rear. I just installed a used 81 s130 280zx brake master cylinder and booster. Both bmc and booster were taken off a junkyard 280zx. The install was pretty easy and straight forward. Just had to take off the spacer and flip the booster and everything bolted up fine. I have bled the brakes in the proper order but there is a problem. The brakes don't work. Basically with the car off the brake pedal builds no pressure. The pedal is spongey about 3/4 of the way down and then super loose at the last 1/4 When the car is on there is absolutely no pressure or resistance or anything. The pedal just goes straight down to the floor with no effort. The brakes don't even work a little. From what I can tell there are no leaks. I read it might me be a push rod issue or brake pedal linkage? Any other suggestion on what the problem might be?
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So i recently purchased a 4/1987 z31 turbo 300zx donor for my s30 l28et project. Originally I planned to fix her up and make her my daily for a while, unfortunately the HOA has issues with my roomates and i having several cars parked outside. Therefore I have to pull the parts i need for my s30 so i can get it off the street. I know for a fact that i can use the transmission, differential, rear brakes, and ecu. I think i might have read once that i could use the axels and half shafts as well. Is there any other parts that you guys would recommend that i should pull off of the donor car while it is still available? Any advice or suggestions that could be offered would be greatly appreciated. I have done my research and to my knowledge this is all that i would need off of the z31. i would hate to sell it and wish i had pulled something more. I know these builds are quit common so any other helpful hints or advice would be awesome. Any other forum suggestions would be helpful too i tried searching this topic and nothing came up so sorry to start a new thread if one already exist. cheers
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I do recognize that this topic has been documented many times before, and believe it or not, I've read most (if not all) articles pertaining to this, on this site and others. But it is clear as mud. Here is my guarantee: if I can find help here, I will make a VERY PRECISE and WELL PHOTOGRAPHED swap so that others in the future aren't as confused as me. I own a 1971 240z, and I want to drop the the R200 that came out of a '94 Q45 (there has been even people speculating that the Q45 had a R230, but from most sources, it is an R200). I've retained the inner CVs with a 6-bolt flange pattern - the halfshaft axles and outer CVs are gone. Someone I know is parting a 1979 280ZX, and the diff has already been picked by someone else. I was thinking I could grab the moustache bar, front diff mount and rear control arm hanger, but some documentation suggested that only up to 1988 280Z (not X) moustache bars would bolt in. Will a 1979 280ZX moustache bar bolt into my 1971 240z and accept the R200 from the Q45? Is the front diff mount and rear control arm hanger worth picking from this 280ZX? As apparently the CVs weren't implemented in the N/A 280ZX (this car has u-joints), I'd like to use other CVs. Someone else has Z32 300ZX (n/a) half-shaft axles - they have a 5-bolt flange on the differential side, and just the one-piece CV/stub axles on the other (is there a proper name for this?). some documentation says that the Q45 CVs accept 30-toothed splines, which the Z32 TT has, but not the N/A version (which has 29). Really Nissan, REALLY? There has been some articles suggesting that pathfinder axles are a good fit (length-wise, tooth-count wise) - keeping in mind, I still need two wheel-side CVs on the 30-tooth splined axles. Then there are the dreaded stub-axles. Can I use the 280ZX stub axles and companion flanges in the 240z? On the companion flange side (CV-side), what bolt pattern will I be expecting? 6-hole (3 pairs)? Seems like I'll need to find either the proper outer CV to mate to it, or machine an adapter (which will affect the overall length). I am aware that several companies offer kits that would make my life easier, but I don't have thousands of dollars to throw at the rear end of the car right now. As a bonus question; is it worth getting the rear brakes off the 280ZX? I see many people have done it, except adapters must be machined to hang the calipers. Are the 280ZX housings the same, and could the whole thing be swapped into the 240z control arms? thanks so much, Sim http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/diffswap.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70534-r-200-spline-counts-and-mystery-hlsd/
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- diff
- differential
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It seems my transmission has got major problems. I'm interested in finding a recently rebuilt or relatively low mile 5 speed. Thanks
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- borg warner t-5
- transmission
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