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Showing results for tags 'L28'.
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Hey everyone, So I recently shaved and painted my valve cover, and I'm looking for a new oil cap that is smooth and that I can paint to match. I went searching on ebay for oil caps and a ton of generic stuff comes up, but I don't want to buy it unless it will actually fit. I searched around the web a bit and I couldn't find any information on this particular subject. Does anybody know if the oil caps from other, newer, cars will fit our L series engines? There are certainly a TON more options for newer cars. For example this guy right here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-NISSAN-200SX-240Z-240SX-260Z-280ZX-300Z-300ZX-ALUMINUM-ENGINE-OIL-CAP-RED-/111274214591?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e875c4bf&vxp=mtr It claims to fit the 200SX-240Z-240SX-260Z-280ZX-300Z-300ZX Does anybody know if all these cars/engines have interchangeable oil caps?
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I'm pretty new to this forum but I wanted to start a build log for my car so i can document my progress and hopefully get some tips along the way so i can truly get the most out of my car. A little backstory on the car and the swap is that there are few people in New Jersey who really know how to take care of these cars and tune the Su's properly and webers also proved to be quite rare and i wanted something a bit more reliable. My car had been breaking down going lean, going rich, backfiring, all sorts of engine problems that i just didnt want to deal with so i thought id upgrade to fuel injection...being 18 and having this as my only car i need something that i can get around in and wont die on me. So im starting with my 240, taking the l24 out along with the terrible wiring the previous owner did, and putting all new wiring in along with an l28e thats going to be spruced up a bit in the coming weeks, once everything is running and well, im going to ditch the ecu, put in megasquirt dial it in, then turbo the engine, i already have a turbo manifold, im working on getting a turbo dizzy, and oil pan. Today is day 1, the car is covered in snow, and the l28 just arrived itll probably be a few weeks before any work can be done because the swap will be done in my mechanics backyard My goal is to have the engine bay look clean maybe not a show stopped but something i can be proud of, horsepower goal is 275 at the wheels Thats what im hoping to get the car to look like any advice before i start? ( ive read the forums hundreds of times and will probably still read them a hundred more) - nzarano
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Hello, I'm interested in bolting up a FS5R30A M/T from a Z31 onto a L28 that will reside in a 240z. They are supposedly rated at +600HP from Z32s. If so, can you point me to some more information on this or elaborate here. Yes, the L28 will never produce that amount of power but I'm looking at options in years to come plus would like to a have a stronger transmission compared to the FS5R90A. Thanks,
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I'm looking for a fuel injected L28, preferably out of a 1978. Needs to be a running motor without any serious issues. I know someone has to have one sitting around that was swapped out for a SBC or RB. I am on a serious budget, so being able to drive and pick it up would be wonderful! I'm in Clallam County. I don't want to low-ball anyone, so just let me know what you are thinking as far as price. 500-800 is around my ideal price range. Thanks!
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I apologize, I'm sure this has been asked before, I did do a little searching but nothing specific came up with the terms I used. I took my car into my local mechanic this morning, and he said most likely I needed a head rebuild, and a clutch job, he quoted me at $1200 for the head rebuild, sounded a little pricey to me. does anybody know roundabouts what I should be spending at a shop to have my head rebuilt? I live in Long Beach, CA any shops that you could recommend would be appreciated as well. all cylinders are good except my 5th cylinder which is fouling the spark plug quite badly.
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hello Hybridz, the other day i was getting the z ready for a car meet, so a thorough cleaning. i got there fine but when i tried to leave the car would barley start and cylinders 4 and 5 would not fire. me and another gentleman cleaned the distributor out and then cylinder 5 started to fire, but still not cylinder 4. it has to be something to do with the distributor "cap" because the wire is barley getting any spark.you can here cylinder 4 rarely fire like it got enough of a charge to ignite. i tried another wire but still not change, oh and if i leave the wire off the spark plug the car seems to run better, not sure why that is. your opinions would be greatly appreciated!
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So about 6 months ago I was out of town and got a call from a friend telling me that I was getting fine notices for not registering my 240z which I had been working on (It is an early 1973 240z currently completely stock). I told my friend to take it down to the muffler shop and have them throw on an exhaust just to get it passing inspection; well my friend knew nothing about cars and It showed when he was talking to the muffler shop because they overcharged him/me and put on one of the cheapest most restrictive exhausts you could imagine (1 3/4 in pipe, cheap restrictive muffler, non mandrel bent pipe, and they slapped it on to the rusty manifold). I have been driving it since because I need it as a daily driver but now is the time to change it because I can tell that my engine hates it. This is were my dilemma sets in. I want to put an l28 into my car because the l24 is starting to give out on me and I am tired of putting in lead substitute everytime I refill costing and extra 10 dollars. I also want my 240z to be running until I have rebuilt the l28 and it is time to drop it in, but with the exhaust It is becoming more difficult to drive. I would like to put a header on the l24 and new 2 1/4 pipe all the way through the car. However I am building on a budget and would like to reuse the exhaust once I drop the l28 in. I have heard that the E88 (my current head) and the P90 (my soon to be l28 head with flat-top pistons) have the same square exhaust ports. Will a header built to fit an E88 fit on to a P90 head, and will the rest of the l24 exhaust fit under the car after the engine swap? Thank you, I hope this all made sense
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hey guys, so i have had this problem since the day i bought my 77 280z, and nobody has been able to help me fix it.the problem: when it first started it would sputter and backfire at about 3000 rpm and get worse as i drove it. as time went on the problem got increasingly worse and became kinda undrivable. I found started investigating and found that the fuel pump would pulse and shut off then return "repeat". this would obviously cause the engine to starve for fuel and sputter or stop firing all together. well i bought a brand new "presumably a real walbro 255 fuel pump" and replaced the stock fuel pump with the walbro. the z ran amazing for about a month and a half. then started sputtering, backfiring,dying, just like before. at a glance it seems the fuel pump went out again but i find it hard to believe that it would just burn up and die in a month, although i have ran under a half tank about the entire time its been installed, but i didn't think it mattered much on a external pump. it has to be something electrical,fuel pump, afm, tps,realy, something along those lines. As of now the 280z is litraly un-derivable. it will start and run great for about 3 seconds then starts acting up, i can drive it for about 50 feet then it gets so bad to the point were the pump is barely functioning and cant touch the throttle without it dying, it eventually just dies. im at a loss here guys, this is my baby and would love to drive her on the road once more. help or opinions would be greatly appreciated additional -info: when i turn the key too acc the pump comes on and stays on. "i don't think this is normal" - the afm that is on the car right now might be from a zx, the owner gave me a box of parts and there was a was looks to be a zx n/a afm, i know that some people do the zx afm conversion. i also know that the early 77 280z had a fuel pump cut off switch in the afm's and the later ones did not and it was run from the oil pressure sensor. from what i can see the OPS operates just find and when it is unplugged it does not in anyway effect the pump or running status of the z. - the only thing on the car that i know does not work properly is the temp sensor. but i know that thats the reason its making the car run lean,if that was the issue that doesn't enplane why it ran great with a brand new pump.
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hey guys, i have a 77 280z and i recently replaced my fuel pressure regulator with a cheap adjustable aftermarket one to see if would fix a other problem "stupid move". this regulator said adjustable but it really wasnt so it was running around 50+ psi.. i never really ran it on that kind of psi but the otherday i had to move it out of my driveway for a second and it seemed to be running normal then all the suddin it started running insanly terible. it seemed to idle ok but when you touched the throttle it would instantly sputter. whell after a while of trying to solve this problem i fell unsuccessful and put it back in the garage. a few days later i try to start it and it will barly start and sounds like its only running on 3-ish cylinders and does not idle. still cant figure it out, a day later i go and try agian and then it fires maybe once for one or two cylinders and dies. im not sure what this problem could be. my best guess is that because of the high psi it has broken or jammed some or all of the injectors. today i replaced the regulator with the stock one and banged on all the injectors to see if they would come un-stuck. i did have some breif success, it started and ran on 3-ish cylinders agian. if you guys have any idea of what this could be please let me know, thank you . sorry for the long ass story.
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Hello fellow z owners i would like to see how much horse power i would be looking ad with an engine of these specs. >l28 >n42 head, ported polished, Lift(In/Ex): .560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300, kameari big valves >n42 block, ross forged 1mm over high comp pistons, 1mm head gasket >kameari high performance oil pump >later electronic distributer from 280zx >ztherapy su carbs >msa 6-1 headers 2.5" exhaust system Engine will also be about a 10.5:1 compression ratio
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Hello i have a question i have a 240z with an l28 swap that the previous owner didn't do engine work correctly on, any ways when the previous owner put the head on he didn't set the timing correctly and the valves hit the pistons. So when i got the car i pulled the head of and replaced it with a performance head and it runs great, but now thinking back doesn't .75 overbore seem a bit much because .040 is ideal and that is 1mm overbore then that means that a .75 overbore is equal to 19mm which is insane or is the .75 overbore already in mm but even if it is it seems insane. I shouldn't be two worried about it because my car runs great but i was just wondering. Heres a video i made of t a while back. I know it sounds really raspy but since then i put a resonator on it and it sounds way better.
