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Showing results for tags '260'.
Found 9 results
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Here is the last dyno run we did to tune the car. It is a blast to drive. There are 29 pulls on this zip drive. You can just look at the last 3-4 pulls as they are the final tune. 225hp with 255 tq on the dyno. Think I am conservative enough on tune for longevity. Still need to work on decel, and initial tip in. Had multiple issues to deal with at the dyno. Kept losing power to the TPS(was the connection being loose on the spade to fuse panel). Blew coupler off did not know it for first 10 pulls. Pulled the power to 3 injectors by accident while closing the gaps on spark plugs. Had the vacuum lines to the boost controller wrong, hence could not build boost. Thats how it is when you don't finish things you start, or finish things others don't. Have to look over everything. Data Log Zip File.zip
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Reading at 0 throttle is 220 and at full throttle is 1238. Is that correct? Keep losing signal, have traced it through a spade connector that was loose. Once I have reset the signals is as above readings. Throttle application seems accelerated, as in 1/3 is half.
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This is not a how to,It is what I have done. Mesuring the 240 rack I came up with 24.230" from center to center of ball scokets (iner tie rod pivot point) and a travel of 5.125". The pinion is 7.5" from the center of the housing. The Miata rack's I reviewed are from a 92 and 97. The 92 has a vavle body cast with the gear case and is held togeather with C-clips. This makes it harder to modify. The 97 has a vavle housing bolted to the gear case and the end cap screws into the housing. This is what I will cover here. The Miata rack is 26.040"center to center of ball scokets with a travel of 4.704". The pinion is 8.75" from the center of the housing. Ball scoket threads are 17x1.0MM RH. Center of ball scoket to mating face of rack is (including lockwasher) .740".The travel is limited by ball scokets contact with the housing. Removing the ball scokets allows more travel that is now limited by the distance between the fluid lines less the with of the piston inside 5.354"-.287"=5.067" max travel for this rack. Not as much as the 240's 5.125",But with power steering I will go with shorter steering arms to make up for it. To get Center to center of 24.230" I removed 1.812" off the right end of the rack remachined the end with the exception of the lenght of the small OD witch was shortened to .25". This aera and the vent hole must be polished to prevent seal damage. The housing was cut down 1.582" on the right side and remachined. The thread is 40x1.0MM RH, I used 1.575"x24TPI RH (My lathe is english) A new shorter end cap was made alowing an extra .385" travel. It stops the piston befor it blocks the fluid port on the left. Using a face pin spaner insted of a hex alowes more of the housing to be left in place for the rubber mount. This made up for cutting less off the housing than the rack. On the left end of the housing a counter bore 1.5" DIA x.150"deep alowing the ball scoket to travel inside the housing,and the piston to travel to the edge of the right fluid port. The tie rod's were cut down 2.25" and threaded 12x1.25MM RH. Miata outer tie rod's will be used. I now have a rack with the same center to center as the 240z, and a travel of 5.067". Other problems to address will be the pinion is now 6.562" from the center of the housing (15/16" closer to the motor), steering shaft and mounting made. -
Just wanted to throw this out there. Which would be the best s30 model to invest in? What seems to make the most money? or get the most attention? Is there a good year or engine size that came out and everyone went 'That's the one to have' Quite ofter the very early cars seem to be the ones people want to collect? Quite often the company sorted out all the problems and by the end the cars were the best of the lot! Take the e-type for instance though, and the early 3.8 roadster series is a GOD and the later v12 is a train wreck in my opinion. I am new to the Z world though and just wanted to know what people thought?
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Hello all, I've been lurking on the site for awhile, and finally decided to take the plunge and pick up an S30 Z-car from a fellow forum member over at OntarioZCar, along with my brother (Adrian Z). (If you're in ON, and not on that forum, I highly recommend it - great bunch of guys). This is going to be a dedicated build thread, I will try to make it picture-heavy, as those are always the best ones. She's a 1974 260Z with 46k miles on the ODO. I thought it was mostly original, but on closer inspection in the shop it's had some work done on it (not good either, going to be a bit of a pain to fix). The front frame appears to have some damage and they fixed it poorly. The floorpans are shot, there's typical rust everywhere you'd expect from a 40 y/o car in Canada, but nothing that's not fixable with a bit of work. The bigger issue is that it was sitting neglected in a barn for the past 15 years, and the engine seems to be seized. Clutch is unresponsive as well, breaks nonexistent (work on moving first, then worry about stopping). The previous-previous owner jimmy-rigged the wiring, so that needs to be redone, and he took the stock carbs off in favour of a single-weber setup - not sure why. So far I've just been inspecting and figuring how deep of a hole I've dug for myself. I washed the car, drained the goopy old oil, and slapped a new oil filter on. Filled it with 10W-30, not sure if that's best, but some forum folks seem to think it works, so that's good enough for me. I'm pretty sure the rings are rusted to the bores, so I pulled the plugs and filled each cylinder up with WD40, leaving it overnight to try penetrate the rust, see if it feels like turning tomorrow... Taking her home Weird single-weber setup Interior - Driver's seat shot, the rest is ok Badly repaired front frame under the engine (not going to pass safety here...) Rotted floor pan First of many oil changes Eric
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It's always nice to know of other z car owners in the area. How many are we in Wisconsin? I'm from Manitowoc County
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So I am well aware of the fact that the Inner Tie rods for the 240/260/280 are NLA from almost all sources, but I am wondering if somebody has found a solution for a worn out inner tie rod! Seems crazy that either everyone has perfect tie rods, or is living with crap ones. I've had a couple of ideas, but none of them are easy/require lots of machining. Looking for a good solution!
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Looking for a body kit for 1974 240Z and one for a 1983 ZX. I am in NC. 336-480-7387 dnicol9260 at gmail
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Finally started working on my '74 260Z. Car has sat (inside) for over ten years. Fuel tank had a leak and has been removed. Anyone have suggestions regarding replacement or refurbishment. Prefer something local to Ct. Searched on-line, only came-up with a place in PA (Moyer Fuel Tank) that refurbishes. Tried Zcarsource; no dice. Checked Bad Dog's web site; didn't show anything for a 74. Sent an e-mail request through the site, no reply. Someone I know, who deals in vintage auto's, suggested AII radiator in Bridgeport. They did some work for me about 30 years ago on a tractor & I had no problems; didn't know they were still in business. Brought them the tank, thought they could help. After cleaning; the feeling is it's too compromised and I should find another core. Which brings me to my question - Can someone tell me if the early 280 fuel tank (to 7/76) is the same as a late 260 tank (9/74 to 11/74). They look the same in the drawings. 280 tanks seem to be available as salvage whereas the 260s are almost impossible. Also any other parts or refurbishment sources. Appreciate any help. Thanks - Harry
