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Found 7 results

  1. I'm looking for a replacement relay labeled "combination switch" on the wiring schematic (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf), bottom right side of the diagram. It's part number 25230N4300, which was replaced with part B523089985 both of which are discontinued. I even had the local Nissan service center search the country for any leftover stock of either one and nothing. Has anyone figured out what to use in its place or some other type of wiring workaround? The backstory is that my blinkers stopped working, the driving lights and headlights still work and so do the hazards so I know the bulbs are still good and that they do indeed flash with the hazards. I've replaced the blinker relay and even switched it with the working hazard relay and they still don't work. Using an ohm-meter I traced the wiring back to the combination switch where the readings don't make sense, something in the switch must be burned out. I mean it's a 44 year old switch so it's probable. What's weird is the same switch controls the hazards too but those still work. Ideas anyone?
  2. I was wondering if someone could tell me how to test my fuel pump relay with a multimeter? I was driving last night and my car started sputtering and running really lean and eventually just died. It would start and idle choppy until i pressed on the gas killing it. This morning when I went to go call a tow I noticed that it now only starts and immediately dies afterwards even with a jump.
  3. Hello everyone, I'm having some issues with getting my 1971 240z started. I've changed fluids, cleaned spark plugs, and got a new battery. I've had the starter and the alternator checked and they are both good. I have power going to the voltage regulator when the key is on but all I get is a clicking sound from a relay that is inside the cab on the passenger side. The fuse box has power but has been modified from stock by the previous owner. I have a video at :54 is the relay clicking. Any help is appreciated. I can also take more vids of dash and engine wiring.
  4. Hello, I am new to the forums. Never been one for using forums, but I finally had to join since no info for this came up after vigorous searching. I have this relay or resistor that clicks very sparatically even when the car is off. It eventually drains my batter if not started for a few weeks. It's in the passenger footwell. Waayyy up at the very top of all that mess. I can see the numbers "504," imprinted on it. Anybody ever had to deal with this guy or knows exactly what this does? And furthermore, should I be worried? Btw, my z (1975) is running rough. Idles @1300 and jumps 200 rpm's in both directions. Really hoping this relay has somthing to do with it. Thank you ahead of time:)
  5. Lets talk about the ole ignition relay. Does anyone make replacments besides this guy, who doesnt check his email? http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/what-s-new/ Are there any vendors here that make them?
  6. Any of you Datsun guys have this problem before?: First off: 2/74 260z My car starts by a push and hold button once the key is in the on position. This is how it's hooked up from the PO. It's literally 1 wire from the battery> Push button>1 wire> starter. Does not run off any other wires or ignition, so I can run the starter with my key off. - If i twist the key to the start position I would still hear the ignition relay click even though it's not hooked to the starter. The other day I went to start my car and the ammeter gauge showed no charge, lights were dim too. I turned my car off and none of the lights worked/turned on. I then twisted the key to the start position and it didn't click the relay like it usually would do even though that's not how I start my car. I started my car with the push button (like usual) and the ammeter was still not showing charge and all the lights were dim. I started it and shut it off a few times and the gauge finnaly showed charge and all the lights are bright and back to normal. They even turn on when the car is off. The relay still doesn't click when I twist te key though. Even when I take the battery cable off and put it back on I don't hear a click from a relay like I used too ( the same relay I think). Already changed the ignition switch. And checked all fuses. Now my problem is that the fusible link for (what I think is) the ignition/starter is getting really hot. The fusible link that is getting hot bridges the thick white wires running from the shunt. The white thick wire is also hot at the shunt too. When I disconnect the T plug at the alternator, the fusible link doesn't get hot anymore. The cap for the fusible links say BATT(for the one thick white wire that gets hot) and IGN(the one that doesn't and is white/red wire) I have a feeling my problem has something to do with my ignition not clicking anymore. Also, when I would plug the negative battery cable back on, a relay would click too. Is this the same relay? The relay clicks come from the passenger front kick panel.
  7. So I just picked up an '83 280zx-t that I am planning on using as a donor for my l28et swap in my S30. Bought it not runningn as something "electrical" went wrong with the previous owner. He said he took it out of storage, jumped the battery and drove around the block and now the car won't start. When I got it home I began to go through all of the wiring and finally I was able to get some of the lights, however I still cannot get the car to turn over when I turn the ignition switch. I noticed a relay was missing from the relay box and also a wire cut from the other box under the hood. Hoping someone can help me identify if the missing relay or wire could be my problem.
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