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Showing results for tags 'tuning'.
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Hello everyone, I own a r33 1995 gtst and I'm wanting to tune it. So I've gone to a tuning shop near me to get a quote. The quote is; - Greddy T517Z bolt on turbo - HKS boost controller - 880cc injector upgrade - Spark plugs - Plazmaman Intake Plenum - Plazmaman bigger throttle body - Greddy front mount intercooler - Upgraded fuel pump - Adjustable fuel pressure regulator - LINK ECU plug and play complete set with sensors (MAP sensor), not using air flow meter anymore - Clutch Kit - Labour to install parts above - Setup car and dyno tune For all the work above you will be looking at $13k-$15k - PRICE IS IN AUD I feel like this is a bit of a rip off, and for that price i should be getting some better higher performance parts, but i could be wrong hence why I've posted here asking for answers. Thanks!
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Hey guys, you might have seen my posts in the various facebook groups over the last couple of days, but finally I´ll post here too, after I gathered most infos about the commonly asked questions. I’ve a glass manufacturer on hand who will produce new glass for our S30 Z’s (2 seater) It will be thinner and therefore also lighter but still obtain all safety regulations including the E sign and also the DOT number. So fully street legal in Europe and the US including all necessary testing that goes with it. Some might think thinner means a weaker windshield and also a higher risk of damage due to stone chips or what not. I ask for a statement from the manufacturer which at least to me makes sense.... so due to the fact that it’s thinner it’s also more flexible and absorbs the impact better. As our cars are not relying on structure integrity of the windscreen, it also doesn’t change any rigidity of the car. Thicker and therefor harder glass is also more brittle. The windshield for example will be approximately 5kg lighter due to the reduction from 6,76mm to 3,96mm. We’re still looking into how to seal everything but it probably has to be glued into the window seal. Then we would still be able to use the standard gasket. But that’s also the case iaw the Nissan FSM, at least for the 280z. I’m looking for people who are also interested in new door glass and rear hatch glass as they have to build a new form for it. We need in total 10 pieces made to justify the cost for a form. The sides will be 3,15mm instead of stock 3,85mm. Same for the rear hatch window. Horizontal Heating will be possible in the aft one but can also ordered without heating. Vertical heating is still questionable due to low demand, probably. (another tool has to be made for "printing" it on the glass.) Prices are without TAX but including shipping in germany, for exact shipping quote send me your address via pm and I forward it to the manufacturer. Windshield: 390€ with 2x 1,6mm glass 240€ with 2x 2,1mm glass Still waiting on raw material for these ones... sadly...: Door and hatch glass: With 10 orders: 500-600€ a piece. With 20 orders 350€-450€ due to the tooling costs. These prices are very rough calculated as the manufacturer is still waiting for answers from their supplier regarding the blue tinted glass (like OEM) in the right thicknesses. So I hope they will go down by a lot. Should know more in that regard beginning of next week. Maybe it has to be clear, let’s see... Iaw the parts catalog at least windscreen and rear hatch glass are the same across 240/260/280z. Door windows have differences in the MJ, for now they would use a 78" 280z for the forms, I hope they´re able to use them for 240/260Z too, as the general form should be the same for the door glass, just the holes and the part which mates to the metallic window mechanism has another cutout... but lets see. Shipping and selling will be done through the manufacturer and is possible worldwide. Please comment for general interest. I´m only trying to get it going with the manufacturer. Let’s see if they actually start to produce it. Bigger group buys will get an additional 10-20% off. Alright, thats it 😄 comments welcome, please discuss the idea- 21 replies
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Hello everyone. I'm going to jump right in. I just installed a new motor. Fully stripped of emissions except charcoal canister. Cold start delete. Bcddd deleted and plugged. EGR delete. All new vacuum lines. New plugs E3's /wires MSD 7mm. New fuel pump (95psi) regulated to 35psi on rail, and filters before and after. Clean grounds. New battery, starter, alternator. Clean connections on injectors. All injectors were bench tested and contacts cleaned w/ new gaskets. Vacuum tested @ 17. New Fidanza flywheel installed with exedy clutch. The issue: Car starts right up strong. Will rev to 3k decent. If I hammer throttle it backfires out the exhaust. I have played with the AFM because both units I have already been played with. I have calibrated one using the guide on Atlanticz.ca and everything went well. On reinstall, the car would not start. I had to tighten the clock spring on afm for it to run again. Now it is soo tight I am afraid to go any further. If I hold extra tension on the AFM it runs beautiful and smooth to 6.5k easy. What else can/should I do to correct this issue? Open to all suggestions.
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I have been having so many issues tuning my triple OER/SK dcoe 40 carbs. I recently bought these carbs secondhand. I have been running into issues with idle speed, and synchronizing. The car runs very rough and the engine shakes quite a bit. Problem #1 I attempted to synchronize all three of the carbs but ran into many issues. The carb (#2) in the middle seems to be drawing in a lot of air compared to the carb (#1) and carb (#3). This is with all the carbs set to the same idle speed screw distances. I suspect that carb #2 has a bent throttle shaft or butterfly, but the butterfly opens smoothly with no obstructions. I also checked for vacuum leaks and there doesn't seem to be any. Problem #2 When I put the synchronize tool onto any of the carbs the idle drops and the carb drools fuel everywhere, like a toddler drooling. I am not sure if that is normal or not. Every carb seems to do that when I hold the tool up to the throat. Also when I hold up the sync tool to carb#2 the engine almost dies out. Desperately, trying to find a solution I have to increase the idle speed of #1 and #3 in order to match the flow of #2. This resulted in a super high idle speed of about 2000rpm. Problem #3 Carb #2 seems to also be running much leaner than the others. I had to turn the idle mixture screws a few more turns than #1 and #3. please any advice is welcome.
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Hi guys, This fuel injection stuff is new to me... I'm trying to get my car's fuel injection/computer checked out before Ocean City Maryland cruise weekend this weekend but I'm about out of time. The car runs ok but it's not 100% and I want to at least have it checked out. The motor is a stock 99' firebird LS1 and the previous owner gave me his Diablosport Intune. I tried to mess with it a weekend ago but didn't really get into it. I spoke to a local shop Friday and apparently a newer guy answered the phone and said they could plug it in and check out it. I get there today and he's not there and the owner tells me it's not that simple, says they sell diablosport but they don't really tune them, more into HP and SCT (Brands I guess). He says if I know the computer's serial number that helps and they'd need three days to get a new map built. I don't know if I need all that right now but just wanted it to get checked out. I couldn't find my Intune tuner before I went there which didn't friggin help but then of course I found it immediately when I got home. I think I'm going to try and mess with the tuner myself again. It looks like you can do a ton of stuff with it but it was a little hard with the small screen. I immediately hit an acronym I didn't understand last time i messed with it and I only have a quick start guide, I'm going to get in touch with Diablosport soon and see if there is a glossary or more detailed instruction manual and ask them if they know any shops that actually tune rather than just sell their product. Does anyone have any Diablosport experience or know any shops in Maryland that might be able to help me out? Either way I'll post any progress I make. Take care fellas. P.S additional reading if you want. My fuel injection experience is limited to my 2010 Ducati Hypermotard 796. Years ago I installed a full exhaust on it and purchased a Bazazz piggy style back ecu for it (like a power commander). Well that turned into a crapshoot. The Bazazz units apparently don't talk well with the stock Siemens computers on those bike's, I needed to get my ECU reflashed for it to work together which is what I thought I was avoiding. A new fully tunable dedicated ECU is twice the price which is why the piggy-backs are attractive but after reflashing the ecu and you're spending the same money anyways so I screwed myself. I went back and forth with my shop and Bazazz and got annoyed with Bazazz and ended up telling the shop (Ducpond) to pull off my tuner and send the stock ECU to Redline in Virginia to get a flash and dedicated map installed on it for a similar exhaust, the bike has run pretty well ever since. Anyways I don't think or don't know if I'm in a similar situation to my Datsun's ls1 right now. Why does it matter if I go somewhere who can or can tune Diablsosport stuff. Is it something with the car's OBD port that's now proprietary to the Diablosport tuner? I thought any shop would be able to plug into my car and check out the fuel injection. I'm a bit confused obviously but I'll learn this stuff soon here.
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Hello, Can anyone smarter than me take a look at this tune and tell me what is wrong with it for my build. I have a pretty much stock 82 l28et stock injectors DIY wiring harness i put together. iac sensor 240sx 65mm throttle body and tps DIY trigger wheel single coil lc2 wideband (not wired to ms2) walbro 255 lph inline fuel pump no other sensors are connected to the MS2 Ive been messing around with some other peoples tunes and came up with this. This started the previously warm car yesterday and i set my timing on the car with this project. its set to around 19 btdc because it was running so rough. The car was running very rich and was backfiring with every change in throttle. i assume the ignition settings might be wrong and the fuel map is too rich. ive scaled down the fuel map and it didnt seem to change much at all. could their possibly be other more hidden settings that i also have to change. Today i tried to start it and it just kept flooding itself no matter what spark settings i change or if i scale down the fuel map. Im new to this type of stuff so any help is apreciated. ive been researching so much and tried so many things but nothing is working. thankyou.
