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Which is best 240z rear disk brake conversion kit?


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There seems to be a misunderstanding about my parking brake question.

 

The question was for Aplyedmind's idea: I am using Toyota 4x4 vented calipers in the rear Just like in the front

 

I am interested to see how the parking brake set up works if Toyota calipers are used for rear brakes.

 

 

Edited by Miles
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There seems to be a misunderstanding about my parking brake question.

 

The question was for Aplyedmind's idea: I am using Toyota 4x4 vented calipers in the rear Just like in the front

 

I am interested to see how the parking brake set up works if Toyota calipers are used for rear brakes.

 

If you run the Toyota 4x4 front calipers on the rear you'll either have to run separate parking brake calipers or a line lock to have a parking brake.

 

To answer the questions about the kit from the guy in Vegas, I have it mounted up now. It uses Maxima calipers and modified brackets, the parking brake cables hook right up to the p-brake acutator on the caliper, no mods required. The only downside to this kit is the calipers have to be mounted on the opposite side of the car they were designed for. This means bleeding them is a "little" more complicated, you have to remove them from the hangers and orient them so the bleeder is higher than the rest of the caliper, once you do that they bleed just fine.

I'm real happy with the setup, ran them at the first auto-x event this last weekend, it's amazing how much of a difference working brakes makes!

Edited by wheelman
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Thanks for the LasVegas brake kit supplier-he is 1/2 the price of the others. Will order a pair from him and see how it goes and provde feedback. I suck at bleeding brakes, but I don't understand why the orientation of the caliper matters, so please help me understand, I'm not trying to sound like a smartie...do we force the air out of the system, or does it rise to the top? I've had to bleed brakes lots of times and the only thing that I have really learned is not to have my wife help me, my daughter does MUCH better and doesn't scream, rip my head off, pinch my fingers or squirt brake fluid all over me. i'm thinking of getting a vacuum bleeder, would that make bleeding the maxima-based system easier? From talking to Silvermine, Modern Motorsports, and AZ Z-car, all of those "big" kits require at least a 16 inch wheel to be confident that the calipers will clear, although AZ z-car says a Konig Rewind 15" will clear. I have 3 sets of 15 inch wheels and swap back and forth a lot, so I really can't use a kit that requires a big wheel. The other issue I may face is clearance of the p-brake mechanism and my CV axles.

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...do we force the air out of the system, or does it rise to the top?

Both,

You want the bleeder nipple higher than the rest of the caliper because air rises in the fluid (to the top) and it's possible, even likely, that a bubble will get stuck in the caliper and be very hard to purge if the nipple isn't the highest point. But you're also forcing the air from all the lines by pushing fluid through them.

 

i'm thinking of getting a vacuum bleeder, would that make bleeding the maxima-based system easier?

I tried using a vacuum bleeder but found it didn't work very well, ended up using the vacuum reservoir as a catch can for the fluid when I pushed it through the caliper using the brake pedal. Worked much better that way, made flushing the system of the old fluid much more convenient.

 

The other issue I may face is clearance of the p-brake mechanism and my CV axles.

I'm running 300ZX CV axles and had no clearance issues with the p-brake bracket.

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You can also get "speed bleeders" they are the nipple screws but have a check valve built into it. When you push down the pedal fluid squirts out and when you release the pedal the valve does not allow air back into the system. It makes it really easy to bleed a system by your self.

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the speed bleeders are great but won't help with an inverted caliper as with this or the silvermine kit [which i have]. once bled the sm brakes work great but i wasn't a huge fan of having to remove the caliper, invert it. hold on the rotor [providing the pads a stop limit] then bleed. it made it a 2 person job, slower and more complex. i have since rectified it [with nigel's help!] and the calipers are now oriented correctly [bleeders now on top] and bleeding is a breeze.

 

You can also get "speed bleeders" they are the nipple screws but have a check valve built into it. When you push down the pedal fluid squirts out and when you release the pedal the valve does not allow air back into the system. It makes it really easy to bleed a system by your self.

 

 

 

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After all this discussion, I am ordering the brake kit from the supplier in Las Vegas. Shaun Schlappi is his name at ohsofast@hotmail.com; he advertises his kit on craigslist. His kit is a Maxima caliper kit similar to the Motorsport Auto kit, but his price is $400+shipping ($37 for me), while theirs is $785+shipping. The only difference I can see between the kits is that he uses rubber flex lines and they have metal. Also, his bracket is a 4-bolt bracket and theirs is a 3-bolt bracket - I'll cut a chunk of it out to avoid removing my axle stub. I called Porterfield (racing brake pad supplier) and they can supply pads for a Maxima in the R4S and R4 compounds for $79 total. If this kit clears my Wolf Racing CV joint half-shafts, I will order another kit from him minus rotors and try to come up with a modified bracket to accommodate a second caliper on each wheel. Full report to follow in a couple of weeks.

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GOTHALOSISM-I wouldn't give you a discount just for showing a picture with a block in front of your back tire! However, it IS the BEST rear brake system-it is cheap, light, works every time, and easy to transfer from one vehicle to another, with quick, hassle-free install. Of all the answers I've recieved, you silent testamonial has been best!

:lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anybody know of a caliper that comes WITHOUT a parking brake mechanism that shares the mounting bolt spacing with the Maxima caliper? This would be for my drifting caliper.

 

My kit from Las Vegas has arrived. I'll give a report on it when I get out the tools, perhaps this Sunday.

 

The picture shows the goal.

post-5903-021721000 1307671263_thumb.jpg

Edited by RebekahsZ
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After all this discussion, I am ordering the brake kit from the supplier in Las Vegas. Shaun Schlappi is his name at ohsofast@hotmail.com; he advertises his kit on craigslist. His kit is a Maxima caliper kit similar to the Motorsport Auto kit, but his price is $400+shipping ($37 for me), while theirs is $785+shipping. The only difference I can see between the kits is that he uses rubber flex lines and they have metal. Also, his bracket is a 4-bolt bracket and theirs is a 3-bolt bracket - I'll cut a chunk of it out to avoid removing my axle stub. I called Porterfield (racing brake pad supplier) and they can supply pads for a Maxima in the R4S and R4 compounds for $79 total. If this kit clears my Wolf Racing CV joint half-shafts, I will order another kit from him minus rotors and try to come up with a modified bracket to accommodate a second caliper on each wheel. Full report to follow in a couple of weeks.

 

Just thinking out loud here. How heavy are these calipers, by having two on each rear wheel affect your unsprung wait and possibly compromise handling? Which may defeat the object of having these to assist on the track?

Edited by 24OZ
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Probably. Really, I am a poor enough driver that I doubt I'll notice any handling problems that I can blame on the car. I am hoping the mod will allow me to induce oversteer on command. The tracks I run on are basically parking lots and top speed in only in the 60s-I think I'll be fine. But the box the kit came in is really heavy. I'll try to do a weight comparison when I get the wrenches flying.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Dynalites are about 3.5 lbs each as I recall. Toyota 4x4 calipers are about 9, and I think stockers are about 7. That's all rough memory, but I think it's safe to say that the two calipers are not so heavy that it will cause problems. Totally unnecessary for braking, but might be the cool thing for drifting, I dunno.

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I guess the reason I am going to try the Maxima caliper (cast iron) is that somebody else has worked out the compatability problems of rotor size, caliper mounting, bracket spacing. I'd kind of like to stay out of the scratch design process until I have some other projects behind me: like my total renovation of the first floor of my house, LS2 swap, etc. Not to mention trying to stay married and the day job, too.

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I like the early maxima bracket with the 280zx rotor and caliper.

 

1981-1984 RWD maxima rear brake bracket.

1982-1983 280zx rotor

1983-1983 280zx caliper.

 

It's bolt in with no "custom" wear item parts.

There is no issue bleeding.

The parking brake was easy to connect.

It's bolt in easy.

Edited by rejracer
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