Nelsonian Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 PM sent in regards to my proposal, as to not highjack this thread anymore than I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 What other parts you making? How much will the door pulls be? does it fit the 240z? Yo ZTR, Yes and No, I designed that door pull to match the doorpanels with the speaker mods attached. Will it fit a factory 240 setup? Sure, with a little patience and some basic fab skills you could make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I've been trying to ignore this thread, but the idea of flocked door panels and those carbon fiber door pulls is too much! Betting you won't be making these for 2+2 models though! Lance, No clue if it will fit or not, I have zero knowledge of the 2x2 interior. I will however consider making those panels as well. Thats how all this got started in the first place. It basically boils down to interest in the finished product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Not sure if you will have enough interest, but if so I've got a pair of door panels your more than welcome to have. They are similar to the coupe door cards, just a little longer and with an extra door release (to be used by the rear passenger). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Pete, Your fiberglass and mold making skills are great. I have tried with several members who also have good fg skills to make a single gauge pod that seemlessly blends into the top of the ignition clamshell. Something as if the factory had intended which would allow for a boost or air/fuel mixture gauge(2'1/16") to visually reside smack dab in the center of the two main gauge zone. Sound like something you may want to tackle? Nelsonian, Thank you (Smiles) I live for this stuff!!! I got into FRP years ago with the idea that I was going to make small fiberglass speaker pods for my 510,... years later Im making ....everything!!!! So can it be done? Yes Im sure, but the problem would be getting your idea outta your head and into mine.... Ya knwo that whole distance thing kinda comes into play. Not to mention that I dont have a car to prototype from. Does anyone live in San Francisco Bay Area that would be willing to lend their car to prototyping? that would help alot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Not sure if you will have enough interest, but if so I've got a pair of door panels your more than welcome to have. They are similar to the coupe door cards, just a little longer and with an extra door release (to be used by the rear passenger). How similar? got a pic... from a few different angles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Someone asked what else Ive made, here is a pic of my custom 510 dash Before and after pics, I frankenstiened three dashes together to get the correct length. Eliminated the center radio and cigarette lighter in favor of engine management. Later I made a custom center console for the radio, 12v supple etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Yo ZTR, Yes and No, I designed that door pull to match the doorpanels with the speaker mods attached. Will it fit a factory 240 setup? Sure, with a little patience and some basic fab skills you could make it work. Yea i have your panels but i am running camery power window regulators so on the drivers side the motor wouldn't fit inside the skin without hitting the window, so i had to mount it outside of the door skin so i am running a little bulge with the panel. Maybe you can make them with just the elbow part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelsonian Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Pete, This week I will work at a more complete and better example of what I was trying to convey through explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Yea i have your panels but i am running camery power window regulators so on the drivers side the motor wouldn't fit inside the skin without hitting the window, so i had to mount it outside of the door skin so i am running a little bulge with the panel. Maybe you can make them with just the elbow part? ZTR Im gonna need a pic with that one. I'm also gonna play devils advocate and ask why you dont go with a system thats proven to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Like the spal kit? i have one but its a pos. OEM regs are crap. OEM toyota ones work good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Like the spal kit? i have one but its a pos. OEM regs are crap. OEM toyota ones work good. I think they're an ok setup, its not a Ferrari setup by any means, but I have two kits one of which I installed more than 8-9 years ago and it still works great to this day. I guess it just boils down to a matter of choice. So post a pic of the problems your having, Im sure we can all come up with a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 No problems here, just a slight bulge about where the oem regulator is but thats not the panels fault. You really wouldnt notice if you werent looking for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Here is an update on my door panel “build†- First remove the old door panel and pop rivets that hold them in: I drilled them out rather than pop them out so you can keep the panel nice and flat. Here is the size rivets I used and what it should look like. The rivet flat face should be towards the door vinyl. After three days of heating and pulling and clamping, it is easy to see the stock door panel will fit with the speaker pod there. To do this right, it would take about a week each door to slowly work the vinyl. See pic: After seeing if the panel will work, I decided to drop the door panels off to get the bottom section recovered. I will post some pics when it is all done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I would recommend putting a real thin layer of weatherstrip between the metal oem upper piece and the fiberglass part when you rivet it. I didn't do that to my passenger side one and it squeaked pretty good, so i took it off and stripped it, rerivited it and its all good now. I would also recommend using 3/16 rivet washers on the backside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I would recommend putting a real thin layer of weatherstrip between the metal oem upper piece and the fiberglass part when you rivet it. I didn't do that to my passenger side one and it squeaked pretty good, so i took it off and stripped it, rerivited it and its all good now. I would also recommend using 3/16 rivet washers on the backside. Thanks for the info. I am also looking for strips of felt to replace the old worn ones on the panels. Hope to have these on the car in about two weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 ZT-R, any pictures of how your panels came out? Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Clive, How much did you heat the vinyl? I've done it a few times for clients and it only took ... maybe an hour. Once I got it to a point that I was happy with I used some contact cement (NO Flooring Glue this time) reheated the vinyl and it stuck like it was factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hmm, heat for about 5 mins to an area to get wrinkles and such out. How fast does your contact cement dry? When the vinyl is hot it sure does stretch! I was trying to get it as wrinkle free as possible and look like factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayven14 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 what I did was heat and stretch the vinyl until I got it to a point that looked pretty good, then I applied the contact cement, let it set up for 15 minutes or so. Then I heated both the vinyl and contact cement and bada bing bada boom instant grab action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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