steve260z Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 I'm removing my L6. The straps I purchased are too long. I've set up this idea, could be a bad idea but want to check. I've installed 4 of the short head bolts through the chain. The bolt heads will not slip through the chain. Thoughts? Thanks steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 The head bolts will bend and therefore not be reusable but this will do the trick for removing the motor. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 I would not do it. As Joe said, the bolts will bend. Even if you don't care about the bolts, there could be damage to the block form the stess. Also, the bolts could break causing injury to you or a helper, not to mention the car. Use shorter bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) To clarify, will not be re-using the bolts or the block. Can you remind me what the strongest metric bolt is? Code on top of the bolt? Can I easily purchase bolts as strong as the head bolts? Thanks! Steve Edited August 21, 2011 by steve260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 I would at least put some fender washers under the bolt heads. You will have an easier time getting the engine out if you use a tilting device that allows tilting the engine as it comes out to clear the radiator bulkhead. Harbor Freight sells the tilter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 You don't need super fancy hardware for this. The 8.8 grade hardware will be fine. Get regular hex head screw, the head is larger than the socket head cap screws. Use a length that is just long enough to get full thread engagement and still have the chain links loose enough to move around some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Just curious. What are you installing in place of the L6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 I'm finally moving again on my 3.1L. Have most of it assembled but need the front cover from the 2.6L besides removing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 (edited) For your info, my engine had the head removed as well. I lift it up from the engine brackets. It was not balanced so I've used a strap to balance the whole weight. The trans was not part of the engine assembly during this step. It worked quite well but not sure I would do it again this way... Edited August 24, 2011 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 (edited) You just need two bolts. Steel is pretty strong as long as it's not an impact force. You are putting a lot of load sideways on those bolts. Not good. I would do it on the side of the block. Ac compressor mount holes, etc. I've lifted a mod motor longblock out with two m8 bolts. Edited August 24, 2011 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Old seat belts work great. Just tie a good knot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 Yeah, bolts on the side sound interesting. I'll be doing it sat. In addition to thinking how to.get the 3.1 in....another pita is the engine lift legs won't clear the front control arms so the car also needs to be jacked while lifting the motor out, while reducing my vertical lift clearance by the same amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 (edited) Why use 13" long head bolts??? Just bolt the chain links right to the deck with some 1.5" short hex bolts and a few washers. Edited August 25, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 As Cygnusx indicated, this would be fine if you used short bolts. I'd use a washer between the chain and the deck. You could use the stock head bolts if you use something rigid in between the bolts instead of the chain. Class 8.8 bolts would be fine for this. Class 10.9 is the strongest, but not needed in this application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 (edited) You guys realize simply using two Metric Pad-Eyes screwed into the block diagonally (yes, into the head bolt holes) will be enough to lift the CAR off the ground, and will easily handle the engine. They will cost maybe $6 each for forged units capable of lifting, as I said, the entire CAR... <EDIT> Wow, prophetic cost prediction: Clickety Click! Personally I have a length of chain with two large washers welded to the end links that I screw standard bolts into the head bolt holes and lift the block with... But since he has those nice hooks...may as well put a pad-eye there! Edited August 25, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 The eye bolts are a great idea, just remember to get them 10 x 1.50 thread to fit the head bolt threads. Tony's link points to 8x1.25 bolts, lest anyone blindly gets some without a sanity check. And the 10x1.5 size jumps up in price astronomically to $7.02.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 I use 1 1/4 inch long hex bolts that are of the correct thread and use a fender washer on between the chain and the block then I snug them up slightly beyond finger tight and pull away. Never use the factory bracket on the rearmost stud of the exhaust.........unless you just screwed in a new one only minutes earlier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Tony and all, Thanks for the advice. Actually have a Granger about 1/2 mile from the office. When installing the new 3.1L block without the head are the headbolt holes safe in regards to stress placed on them, from lifting? The 2.6L I'm removing I will not be used and have not found a buyer, so I'm not concerned about it. Just want to make sure I'm not causing a future torque problem when bolting down the new head on the 3.1L. In terms of where to place/space the eye bolts...what's the weight distribution on a short block without the tranny? In other words, what's the best diagonal positions for these bolts so the block pulls up fairly balanced? Thanks ss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) When you torque the head bolts, you clamp them to 60/80 lbs.ft depending on bolt type/lube, etc. if you'd check the load created with such torque, you would see that load for each bolt is around 50,000N. That's 5 tons per bolt Does it answer your question? Edited August 26, 2011 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Yep, it does. That puts it in perspective. ss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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