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Frame rail restoration pics


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So, the next thing that needs attention are my soggy frame rails. Over the last two or three years, they've progressively gotten worse.

 

My floor pans are surprisingly good still, with very little rust. The rails, on the other hand, are a different story.

 

Completely crushed in many places from apparently being jacked up on the frame instead of the jacking points, it's rusted through in many places as well.

 

Now, do the rails need to be cut out to weld new ones in? Or could I simply source a U-rail just the right size to slide over the existing rail and weld to the floor right where the stock rails connect at?

 

If anyone has pics or has performed this operation before, please share!

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Yes, It's been done many times, just search on here I'm sure you'll find plenty of pictures. The replacement rails you want are the Bad Dog frame rails, they're already cut to the proper size, and they will fit over your existing with a little work, depending on how bad yours are. It's easiest to do this on a lift, but it's not required. Just work safe with lots of stands. Fit them over or cut parts out is up to you, but either way, you should treats and seal the rust before you put on the rails, or you might get more rust eating through your floor.

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Been reading up on Bad Dog rails, they look pretty sweet, and that's probably the direction I'm going to go.

 

One thing though; from the pictures I've seen of others doing it, it looks like some people are cutting out their stock frame rails and some people are beating them in so that the BadDog rails can fit over the stock ones, and then they simply weld them in. What's better? Seems like if you cut the rails out, you could risk the chassis flexing and breaking the windshield, ect.

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I am in a very similar spot right now. My frame rails have no rust... But are smashed to hell and back, so bad its even dented the floor a bit.

I think the slip-over rails are only for the 280z, so- unfortunately my Z is a 240.

... Just debating if its another to add to my "while I'm at it" list before I paint this winter.

Edited by spitsnaugle
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They all slip over. I thought the same thing because the 240 rails are flanged like the originals, but they slip over as well.

 

Oh, thanks. Very good to know. I was just assuming this from the description on baddog's site calling them replacement rails.

I definitely go ahead with them then.

Edited by spitsnaugle
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Dude you in oklahoma city too, i am too!! Like your build thread on nismokc. Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks man! Yeah it's getting there. Finally got it running right, just trying to get the suspension sorted out. Got the coilovers on last night, and I'm worried about my frame rails because of how low it is. What's your username on NismOkc?

 

I am in a very similar spot right now. My frame rails have no rust... But are smashed to hell and back, so bad its even dented the floor a bit.

I think the slip-over rails are only for the 280z, so- unfortunately my Z is a 240.

... Just debating if its another to add to my "while I'm at it" list before I paint this winter.

 

Ok sweet! So I'll probably just bang my existing rails up and in a little and weld the rails on over it. I have a welder, and me and my roommate weld, so I'll probably end up getting it as high as I can on jackstands and doing it in the driveway. The BadDog rails are $85 apiece, which is a little better than I was expecting.

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User name is same as this account. I used to have a 240sx fastback with a sr20det but sold that about 2 years ago or so. Ever since then i hardly get on nismokc, but now im back on the forum a lot lurking around now that i have a 240z. Just bought mine a few weeks ago.

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while you're in there, you might as well get their subframe connectors too. They call it a rear frame rail. I will be doing this soon, because both of my frame rails have rusted through. And while I'm doing it I will get the subframe connectors too, as I hear great things about them. What is recommended for sealing/treating the rust? I have been using jasco rust-preventing primer on my floor pans for surface rust... is that kind of thing sufficient for the frame rails?

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I had the frame rails/sub frame connectors replaced along with the floors from Zedfindings all at the same time. The car was tacked to a level body cart/dolly. The structure is very stout and doesn't even barely flex under my measily 150 lbs. Even if my floors were good enough to save, I still would have cut out the old swiss cheesed rails and replaced with the new.

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There was a huge snowstorm that knocked the power out of his area for a week. I think he got it back on sunday. Might want to give him some time to get stuff straightened out

 

He just replied to me about 20 minutes ago. Said rear rails are about 7-10 days out right now.

 

 

 

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