Kevlars30z Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 As the title says, lets see those brake duct set ups. I will be installing brake ducts and want to see the different set ups. From the air dam down to the rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Bump! I'm curious to see brake ducting implementation too, if anyone has any pictures... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 I don't have any pics of my old setup, but I can tell you that if you route the duct underneath the frame rail it is likely to drag on the ground and get ripped off, and if you put it on the side of the frame rail it will get hit by the tire at full lock. I routed mine up above the airdam and just left the opening of the tube in the airstream to the radiator (not very good) and then had it come back along the side of the frame rail to the area where the tire would hit it at full lock. At that point it curved up and over the area where the tire would hit in an upside down U shape, then I used a hose clamp on the strut housing and another one through it to hold the vent tube and pointed that at the front end of the caliper. I just used sheet metal screws to attach hose clamps to the fenderwells and then clamped the ducting in place. If I were to do it again, I'd do it differently:I'd attach the tubes to a radiator box or the airdam near the center of the car to get a better positive pressure spot for the tube. Then I'd route the tube through the engine compartment, and back out of the engine compartment after the area where the tire would hit just forward of the strut tower. By doing it this way you would have less bends than going up and over the interference point as I did before, and a much shorter tube as well. I think this would make for better cooling. Also if you've got vented rotors, I'd suggest making a backing plate that bolts to the strut where the stock backing plate did and fits inside the hat so that air from the ducts gets sent directly into the middle of the rotor veins instead of blowing on one side of the rotor or the other, which is known to cause problems. I know bjhines made such a backing plate for his brakes. Here is a similar idea for a Bimmer, should help if you haven't already got the idea: http://www.hardmotorsport.com/Hard-Motorsport-BBK-Brake-Cooling-Duct-Kit-Bmw-E36-M3-HMSE36BBKDUCTKIT.htm If you've got stock brakes you can try to find some pictures of ITS ducts and copy that, but they usually require 2 or 3 vent tubes and I don't think they'd last very long on a street car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timecode Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) I'm going to start this project soon and would love to see more setups. I know there out there. Edited January 14, 2013 by Timecode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) Here are mine-fabbed from stock backing plates, welded exhaust pipe onto it and purchased silicone hose from summit or somewhere like that-had them zinc plated after the mods were completed. http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/500/DSC01054.JPG This pic shows the inlet ducts that were made to attach to my Kamanari air dam http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/image/23068-dsc02518/ Shows ducts mounted in the air dam http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/1320333963/gallery_176_970_121730.jpg This is the best belly shot I could find-sort of shows the ducting http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/1338661990/gallery_176_1016_930685.jpg Edited January 14, 2013 by 1 tuff z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Unless you are doing a 60, 90-minute or longer enduro I have often wondered if ducting was necessary. Your thoughts John C? Then again, maybe I'm not driving hard/fast enough to use the brakes that much. When we had only 185 rwhp we changed pads every two years. A real momentum car. Now with over 240rwhp this year, we'll see if that changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 John J, before the v8 and before the supercharged L6 I too rarely changed my pads and was more of a momentum driver. With significantly more power and much higher speeds there is obviously a greater need for increaed brake capacity-I added the ducting to be sure that brake fade would not be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Its fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 I've wanted to do some as well on my car - just for fun. I've been looking a 70's race cars, they use brake duct over disk that surrounds the entire disk to enhance cooling efficiency. A little like what 1 Fast Z has done + proper disk covering. Which part also of the brake should be cooled the most? I see ducts going strait to the disks whereas it seems to me what we're trying to avoid is fading caused by too hot pads & fluid (in calipers). So I would try to orient air flow towards calipers. Regarding ducts on air dam, I come up with fiber glass units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 I bought dinky 3" alum flange things from Aircraft Spruce and 3" Toaster Oven duct from Lowes. It doest rub at full lock static. Who knows what will happen after I launch off a burm sideways this weekend. I squirted directly at the vented rotor center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 A 200hp ITS 240Z needs at least one 3" (two 3" preferred) ducts to each front wheel for a 30 minute spring race. That's for the stock rotor and caliper. A vented front rotor is happy with one 2.5" duct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Nothing to rear? Lokks harder to plumb. Rear rotor hubs have a neat blue rainbow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 The rear shouldn't get nearly as hot as the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Tim Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Shitty pic from my facebook... This is on our ITS car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Ducting is a HUGE difference. Tracked at INDE all day today and the difference in temp (my hand on wheel) is gigantic Rears are warmer for sure. I pulled a little rear bias out. LOVE cockpit adjuster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timecode Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Taking some cues from modern production cars I decided on directing air to the brake area versus full on ducts to the caliper/rotor. This setup suffers zero wear do to the lack of any articulation. My tests showed 70-100 degree reductions with mild to aggressive street driving. I have yet to see what benefits I will see on a road course. I used aluminum L bars cut down to needed lengths and steel duct straps. All mounted using factory mounting holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 That looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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