s30kid Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 The past few weekends I have been trying to get my 77 280z running so I can register, smog and drive to work. I've replaced all the spark plugs, plug wires, rubber fuel lines, oil, and some other small things. First start and it fired right up and ran well with a idle problem (probably MAF). But well, hears my problem, one of the hoses on the injectors had a small hole. So today I decided to replace it. When I pulled the injector the little brown colored cap where the gas comes out was cracked. But I just quickly looked over that, Replaced the hose and put it back together. When I started the car it didn't want to start, then when it did I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. It idled at maybe.. 300. then would die. It didn't sound like it was firing on all cylinders and a cloud of white smoke was coming from the tail pipe. Also I checked to see if there was oil, unscrewed the oil fill cap and a little smoke came out of there as well. I am honestly lost for words and confused to a whole new extent.. Whats wrong with my car and how do I fix it?.. please help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Check and clean all the injector wire connections and sensor connections first. Figure out if the engine is missing or not. Make sure all the spark plug wires are in the correct spots on the dist cap and at the spark plugs. Some smoke may come from the valve cover with the oil cap removed. Not a big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 All the plug wires are correctly connected I know this for a fact. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the injectors because it ran almost perfect before I replaced the hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 The injector may be cracked and dumping/leaking fuel. Start the car and remove each injector wire one at a time. each one should stall the car but if you remove one and its acting exactly the same then that injector/cylinder has something wrong with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 The car does not hold idle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Sounds like you might have reversed the inlet and outlet lines on your fuel rail (didn't you post a similar problem somewhere else or was that a different person?). That would cause it to run at full fuel pump pressure, which would be high, which would cause the engine to run rich, which would be okay when cold and which would probably need more air (throttle) to stay running when warm. Check that the line from the top of the fuel filter goes directly to the fuel rail, not the FPR, and that the FPR is connected directly to the return line. You should measure fuel pressure also. Maybe you got some crud in the FPR and it's clogged. The short lines on the injectors are easy to replace. Search around and you'll probably find a write-up on it. It's just a press fit of the right length of good quality 5/16" fuel injection hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 Let me try and be a little more clear. My car ran fine last weekend. It just had a little hole in the injector hose and leaked a small steady stream of gas. The hose was old and likely to burst anyway. (It's the number 1 injector. The closest one to the fire wall) //This morning I pulled that half of the fuel rail off and replaced the hose on the number 1 and 2 injectors. //The Pintle cap (i think its called) was broken on injector no. 1 but I paid no mind and re-installed it. //Is that why my car isn't holding idle or revving past 2000? //To me its the only answer because its the only thing I fiddled with. Now can someone tell me if it IS the Pintle cap and can I replace it for cheep? Or do I need all new injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 And if you ask me (and my brother who was standing by) it sounded like the car was running on one cylinder when I started it up. The engine shook more then normal, enough to shake the car a little more then usual. And another thing, the car just DUMPS smoke out the exhaust. its white smoke. Has to do with oil and i'm afraid i'm burning oil and can possibly throw a rod if i continue to try and get the car running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 The broken pintle cap won't affect anything. Either something got bumped or broken while you were fixing things or you reconnected something incorrectly. Good luck. Often, the best path is to start confirming that things are working correctly. Check fuel pressure, confirm injectors firing, no vacuum leaks, etc. The engine will run on three cylinders. It will shake on five or less. Check plugs for fouling, wires for sparking, and onward... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttodhunter Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 You stated that you know that the spark plug wires are hooked up correctly, and this may be a problem... #1 cylinder is at the front of the engine. White smoke out of the exhaust is a sign of water in the combustion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30 SPL Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Or oil if it is thick and much more stinky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Or simply condensation in the exhaust system if running rich and idled for short times only like during troubleshooting... Disregard smoke unless it's copious (like a mosquito generator) and you can SEE your radiator level dropping, or it positively SMELLS like something. Too many wild-goose chases from 'smoke out the exhaust'.... if it's doing it at speed down the road way, it's one thing. Sitting there in the driveway it doesn't really signify anything most times other than built up condensation in the exhaust system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) Yeah, I agree w/ Tony, The Exhaust doesn't say much, unless it's HUGE clouds. Bright white is likely water in the oil, Bluish tint smoke is just burning oil. Either way it's possible it's temporary. Black smoke is usually too much gas. Huge clouds could mean head gasket. A gasket could fail with any misfire, so don't be suprised if that's the case. That being said, It's hard to figure your issue. One way though is to clamp that #1 cylinder fuel line shut (between rail and injector) and see what happens. If there's a big change, and the engine just lopes like it's missing a Cyl then you know that's the trouble. If it acting exactly the same, then you know your trouble is probably not injector related. From there, You might drain your oil and look for water. Or kinda milky looking rad fluid in the radiator. Personally, I don't think it's that #1 injector, I think you've got bigger issues. I'd say, first review all the repairs you made. Hoses properly connected, plugs in proper order, 1,5,3,6,2,4. The Brown injector plugs are common to have it crack or break. Mine were held on with Zip ties for nearly a year before I decided to start my swap. You can buy replacement plugs from Nissan, or off Ebay cheap. They're really easy to swap out. You can pull your spark plugs and see how they look, Oily isn't good, if it's on just one cyl, but doesn't mean too much. They should be lightly covered in brownish white dust on a good running car. Let us know what you see and we can help you diagnose from there. Pictures of the hoses and Injector and Plugs would be MUCH more helpful. Edit: Oh did you ever pull off your Valve cover? Smoke could be a torn valve seal, plugs can tell us that tho. Good luck Phar Edited May 29, 2012 by Pharaohabq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) You have been given a few things to check, so do your checks and let us know what you find. Edited May 29, 2012 by dexter72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 okay thanks guys, when I have some time off work i'll try and work on it. I talked to a fuel injection specialist and he said to make sure none of the hoses are pinched, all are replaced with new, and use carb cleaner and soak the injectors over night to give a through clean. Also he told me that when you replace hoses air gets in the rail and your supposed to bleed the system, well I didn't, so that can also be the case. my plan for the weekend is... -Pull fuel rail -Through clean of rail -Replace all bad hoses -Soak the injectors and use a light wire brush -Replace the injectors and rail -Make sure everything is tight -Bleed the system -Get a few gallons of gas -Prime the fuel rail -All new oil + filter -New radiator coolant mix And from there, If I have any understanding of my own car, I'm pretty sure it will be back to life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Poo poo to bleeding the system. I've always just primed it with the key in the on position for a bit to build up pressure. Then start it. Never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 The engine will run on three cylinders. It will shake on five or less. It'll also run on two cylinders.... don't ask me how I know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Poo poo to bleeding the system. I've always just primed it with the key in the on position for a bit to build up pressure. Then start it. Never had a problem. X2 with do not "bleed" the system. It's a self priming system, all the air is purged just by turning on the fuel pump. The air washes into the tank through the pressure regulator and return line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30 SPL Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 And if you really do want to "prime", just disconnect the start solenoid lead and crank the car. It will run the pump and you will get the entire system circulating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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