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Damaged 74 260z value?


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Got a guy coming to check out my 74 Datsun 260Z that I hit a guard rail with a couple months back. Before I hit the guard rail the car ran and drove amazing. Was mostly rust free besides the area under the battery tray and some body rust, but being a Florida car it was pretty clean when it came to rust. To get back on the road the car needs a new strut, 2 wheels, a fender and some body work to get the door to close again. Frame looks straight and there was no damage to the shock towers. Car still runs great and moves under its own power though. All original 74 260z with 4speed manual trans, header, and exhaust.

 

d9beb02a.jpg

 

There's a pic of the car post accident. Any idea what I should be able to get out of it as is or by parting it out?

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You're the guy who wants to trade it for a tig welder. I've seen the car on cl before the accident and it looked fairly clean, beaten, but clean and straight. You wanted $2500 in its original running condition, now its just a parts car, worth maybe $500-1000. Maybe worth it to someone who does body work, but in my opinion the unibody is hit and I don't do body work.

 

It could just be the picture, but it looks like the front tire has negative camber, so something in the suspension could be tweaked.

 

Not sure how much you could get for it, $1000 maybe

Edited by BluDestiny
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Thanks for the reply! Yes I'm the guy looking for a Tig welder, but only if it's a nice newer model Tig, with everything needed to get started in welding (argon tank, helmet, etc). I know what I have in the car and what I'd need to sell it for, just wondering what everyone else's opinion is to see if I'm even in the ballpark lol. If its not worth what I want/need - and yes I know I'll be taking a hit because it's wrecked - to get out of it I think I'll just tow it back home throw it on jack stands and wait till im out of college to fix it!

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I vote for jackstands/fixing it. Unlikely you will get out of it what you need. If you have time, like finishing college, it will give you the opportunity to go to the junk yard every few months in hopes of finding a suitable donor car. Problem is, these cars are only becoming more rare.

BTW, you mind posting circumstances that put you in the guard rail? Not really our business, but I'm curious.

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I wont sugar coat it.

 

The last 2 fairly straight, minimal rust, and driving 260Z's I purchased were $150 and $600 and I drove both of them home. If the car was in Ca Id probably only offer a few hundred for it. Its value is only in parts to anyone that does not have some sentimental value towards it. As a stock worn down 260Z goes Insurance might only offer you $1900 to total it as I found out(not that that applies to your situation but it shows the cars value in the previous shape). I just had a CCCValueScope report done on my 260Z after it was hit and that was the offer before I sent them 150 pages of receipts valuing the car way beyond that. If you can get $500-$1000 you are doing great!

 

Personally my advice is to fix what you can before you sell it. Replace the front fender assembly, replace the strut, and replace the door. Those should be fairly easy and cheap to replace and as long as your not seeing any (I mean any) waves in the unibody structure up front near the strut tower or up towards the window/door pillar the car would be savable to any buyer and possibly increase the value. The key would to be find the parts as cheaply as possible though.

Start by removing and inspecting the chassis structure for any signs of damage. The front fender should be the only thing you have to remove to check it out.

 

My reasons are:

-Its a 260Z. 260Z owners are crazy in the eyes of anyone else out there. Why didnt we just buy the 240Z.

-There were a great many number of those 260Z models made despite there being only one model year here in the US.

-The 260Z models pop up on a fairly regular basis (at least here) on CL, Ebay, and local venues. They are gaining value, but all in all most would rather follow my first reason(buy a 240Z as 'they were the first and the best')

 

I dont mean to be a ****. I thought I would give you the truth as I have come to see it. If you can raise the value of the 260Z Im all for it. Ive been collecting them so you'd pave the way for my rust to become gold!

 

Post it for sale and in the mean time start inspecting. Who knows someone might have the 260Z bug and pick it up as a parts car for theirs or perhaps you will get to the point where you can put it together again and either keep it or sell it for a better price.

 

Just my opinion.

 

Sorry for the loss man, and good luck in whatever you decide to do!

 

EDIT:

ROFL, Im a multiple owner of 260Z's. I actually prefer them for the same reason Tony states below! Just giving an example as to why the general populous has not gain favor for the 260Z. Not my personal opinion.

Edited by rayaapp2
THERE IS NO BEST HERE
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It's pretty unfortunate you've had that accident. Unfortunately it's damaged. The Door and fender are easilly replaced. I would worry a lot about the frame. It should be checked by a body shop. The rear quarter is the more difficult part. Really to replace that section will cost more than the car is worth. You can do it yourself if you know what you're doing. That section will need to be fully replaced. You might be able to straighten but it would be much more work. You can get replacement panels from Tabco or other. I would still vote to have you store it and repair it. If you don't then you'd miss it later. Replacing the Door and fender should be relatively easy. The rear can wait to be repaired. Please don't just layer tons of bondo on it. There's already too many that have been repaired that way.

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I kind of agree with Ray. The reason I bought a 260 was they are cheap, have better electricals than a 73 240, and all in all have better performance. I've accumulated 3 more to replace the one I have if something should go wrong---two were GIVEN to me as complete, running cars. A little rougher than the one I'm driving, but straight and complete. The other as I mentioned was $500.

 

It's a relatively easy fix, just drive it till it dies. The parts may work out for you, but then you have a rotting hulk taking up space in your yard. Unless you have buyers lined up waiting for parts (I will give you $150 + shipping for your entire induction/exhaust system, orange air cleaner, flat tops intake manifold, exhaust manifold and headpipe .)

 

But a 2.6 engine? Everybody wants L28's.

 

A four speed? Need I say more.

 

Interior? Good Luck!

 

You're out less hassle fixing it and driving it than trying to sell it and replace it.

 

As to this:

"I was driving home from work after a 12 hour valet shift in the hot Florida sun."

Come with me to Thailand's Interior, 50C and 98% R/H in the sun, climbing up and down on hot machinery and swinging like a monkey from scaffolding pipes to get around a piece of equipment because it was all set up for people 5' 2" and not 6'! I'm not having sympathy for that 'hard work as a valet'... sorry!huh.gif

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