SUNNY Z Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 Where did you get your Illuminas from? I tried to order front and rear some last Month and could not find any. Jerry I bought mine off ebay about a year ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 I bought mine off ebay about a year ago. Thanks I 'll give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 I don't know if this will help but here is one way to go on the Illuminas: http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3016-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE6J6 http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3015-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE5NI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1 Boy I haven't dug those numbers up in years Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) This is the solution to my diff mount loosening itself. 2 pieces of 1/4"x 2" strap welded to the crossmember. Seems to have eliminated my nasty 2nd gear wheel hop as well. I hope I don't have to take it out, because it was a PITA to put in..... even on my buddy's lift. Edited July 11, 2013 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 I don't know if this will help but here is one way to go on the Illuminas: http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3016-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE6J6 http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3015-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE5NI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1 Boy I haven't dug those numbers up in years Danno74Z Thanks I just placed my order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 This is the solution to my diff mount loosening itself. 2 pieces of 1/4"x 2" strap welded to the crossmember. Seems to have eliminated my nasty 2nd gear wheel hop as well. I hope I don't have to take it out, because it was a PITA to put in..... even on my buddy's lift. Looks meaty enough, great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 Looks meaty enough, great idea. This bracing helped greatly, but made it a huge PITA to put in. Also, I noticed the last time i put it in that there is still a substantial amount of flex in this mount setup. I plan on making a new cage for this diff over the winter, and including more body mounting points to hopefully make it solid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 I thought I would update this a little. Put about 5K miles on the car this year, with close to 50 launches on slicks (600+ rwtq), and NO ISSUES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 SunnyZ Wow that is something else - Congratulations! Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Care to put together a kit for me to purchase from you? lol..... I am a turd I know...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted November 22, 2013 Author Share Posted November 22, 2013 I might add that at the track the car was cutting 1.48- 1.5x 60' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 given the new information....my statement stands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Just so everyone has access to this (unless my photobucket crashes) I'm going to post these here. The formatting is a PITA to get from excel to look right. If you want the spreadsheet, I'll email it to you, just PM me. I'd suggest saving these..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 How is the 280Z body holding up, in general? No roll bar/cage yet, right? Any signs of body flex, cracked paint or warped metal? The question of 240Z vs. 280Z comes up occasionally and you've got a good test going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Just so everyone has access to this (unless my photobucket crashes) I'm going to post these here. The formatting is a PITA to get from excel to look right. If you want the spreadsheet, I'll email it to you, just PM me. I'd suggest saving these..... For future record, I've got them saved now, and I'm the type that backs things up like a paranoid conspiracy theorist. Oh, and thank you for all your hard work. This is a serious contribution to the community that seems all too rare. For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment. Intense! Overall that's pretty impressive I think. It's always a good sign you've engineered your drivetrain well when the chassis becomes a limiting factor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment. Just to be clear for those who don't know, the cracks in the A pillars and C pillars are from the lead filler in the joint. It's not a structural crack in the sheet metal. And they occur on all S30s. Edited February 12, 2014 by rturbo 930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubsXL Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 I love this idea and it will probably be the route I take in my all out 280 build. Sunny if you had access/the skill set/material to a full machine shop would you have engineered any of your parts differently? I ask because I work as a welder and have TIG/MIG/stick capabilities as well as multiple lathes and plasma torches. The car will also be flipped over on a rotisserie to shore up the frame rails and floor boards so I will have full access to the under side of the car inside a shop. Any lessons learned or suggestions that you care to share form this experience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 (edited) I love this idea and it will probably be the route I take in my all out 280 build. Sunny if you had access/the skill set/material to a full machine shop would you have engineered any of your parts differently? I ask because I work as a welder and have TIG/MIG/stick capabilities as well as multiple lathes and plasma torches. The car will also be flipped over on a rotisserie to shore up the frame rails and floor boards so I will have full access to the under side of the car inside a shop. Any lessons learned or suggestions that you care to share form this experience? Don't make the front mount as simple as I made mine. With the shorter nose on the diff, it just turns the mount into a lever, and tries to push up whenever you accelerate. I would build somewhat of a pinion snubber that attaches to the body, and limits travel in the up direction with a bushing. Other than that, get your wheels where you want them before you build, if you decide to position them in the center of the wheel well like I did. Will help keep your axle angles correct. Edited February 21, 2014 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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