stony Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Is there a procedure for this. I swapped over to a Z32 ignitor and now the car wont start. also changed EMS and Engine harness. IM 99.9% sure the harness is good (new) and the AEM EMS is communicating with my laptop. the only questionable thing is a used Z32 PTU. i would like to test to know for sure its bad before buying another to find out it still wont start. I downloaded the FSM for the z32 and but could not find a procedure. both over 800 pages so i may have missed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Is there a procedure for this. I swapped over to a Z32 ignitor and now the car wont start. also changed EMS and Engine harness. IM 99.9% sure the harness is good (new) and the AEM EMS is communicating with my laptop. the only questionable thing is a used Z32 PTU. i would like to test to know for sure its bad before buying another to find out it still wont start. I downloaded the FSM for the z32 and but could not find a procedure. both over 800 pages so i may have missed it. This might help... Looks like it's from an automotive class. If it's COP, you might need to pull out the coils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Finally found this in teh 91 300zx FSM. anyone care to translate?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Looks like diode testing. Put your meter in diode mode ->| and test as shown, positive on g, negative on a = no continuity, negative on g, pos. on a = continuity. My meter beeps for continuity and shows a value in volts (I don't really know what the value means though). Go down the rows g/a, g/b etc., then g/1, g/2... Looks like 36 tests. One bad value and you're N.G. I'm no electronics guy but I was just messing with some alternator diodes earlier today and had to figure out the +/- continuity thing for testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Thanks. I did a modified test from the video. Basically hooked up a HEI spark tester, turned off the fuel system and turned the cas with ignition on. all injectors are firing just no spark. I'm assuming its the ignitor. any other suggestions on what to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Stony if you want a known good ignitor I have one I can send over. It's case is broken so I wouldn't use it as a permanent solution but it does work. Pm me your address and I'll send it over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 Is it a z32 igniter? i had my new harness built for Z32 igniters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30red240z Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 You can check with a square wave signal generator like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Is it a z32 igniter? i had my new harness built for Z32 igniters Yep, I use a z32 ecu on my L28. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 (edited) Have you checked for voltage at the coils? It'd be reasonably rare for all of the channels of the ignitor to die at the same time. Edited November 5, 2012 by djz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 Well the Z32 igniter I have has an unknown background. So not really sure just guessing since i wasnt getting any spark. If i remember correctly there are 3 wires to each coil. ground, power and 5v signal? i will check them today when i get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Is the Stat sync box in the AEM tuner on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 I will check when i get home. I loaded the rb26 map that supposedly was on a running car so everything should be on that is required for the car to run. You could save me some time by showing me a screenshot of what your talking about. Remember your talking to a AEM newbie ;> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 Just checked and it shows off. is it supposed to be on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 Nevermind it is on. Just reread the instructions because the start sync thing sounded familiar. Start sync cycles on as you crank the motor and it does that. I also have voltage at the coils. SO i guess i'm dead in the water till my igniter gets here. I guess i could rewire for the rb igniter and try the semi good one i have just to be sure it starts??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 (edited) Be careful loading other tunes, make sure you go though it really good. Have you checked the phasing? Edited November 5, 2012 by ZT-R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 Yes mine matches yours. The tune i loaded was the one that came from AEM. Just want to get it running so i can get it to a dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) So now i have spark verified by the HEI spark tester and my freakin arm!!!!! BUT seems like my timing is way off. all i'm getting is sneezes and huffs thru the intake. I haven't really gone thru with a fine tooth come on how to set timing but does anyone have any experience with determining where in the ignition sequence the car is with the AEM series 2? i should be able to tell somewhere in the tuning program where the timing is at with the engine at TDC? Any Advice is welcome. keep in mind beyond setting gaps and just checking timing im pretty inexperienced in this type of stuff. Edited November 6, 2012 by stony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Is the car running? If not... This is a complete hip shot so take it with a grain of salt but wouldn't you look at the ignition map at like 500 rpm (close to cranking speed) that would be where your ignition is fired. Is the little key on the exhaust cam still intact? Go to the setup wizard and select the nissan 6 cylinder cam sensor. Compression test? You know how to set the igntion with just twisting the cam right. If it is running you need to sync the time to what it is actually reading via a timing light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Not running but it did run just prior to pulling out the old harness a few months ago. Just replaced the cam gear key. But now i'm wondering if i installed it backwards. i will have to check that tomorrow. My guess at this point is, that's what i did considering all i'm getting is backfiring thru the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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