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MSII Extra serial 321. Have LC-1 Noise issues and settings in error help!


motomanmike

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LOL I wish it were that easy. No I live out in the sticks. Not really too much interference physically around me. It would connect before. Like I said it was online, ran for about 30 seconds and tunerstudio went offline and won't connect now in the car or on the stim. I'm going to try downloading megatune tonight and see if it recognizes the ecu. We shall see.

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It's possible the max232 chip burned up... What size resistors were you using as injector resistors? You can test your serial cable by hooking up tx and rx together and see if your computer is transmitting and receiving.

Edited by loy
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If its possible it probably did with the luck i've had. I was using a 10 watt 6 ohm resistor on each 12v feed wire to the injector. Port check doesn't recognize firmware. Rings back 2 valid ports found and 'S' Tried to reflash the firmware and the ecu will not take it. The rs232 mentioned might be the culprit who knows.

Edited by motomanmike
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I've got an update.  Not a successful one but an update.  I had ordered a MSII 3.0 a while back.  I got it assembled and loaded the firmware/ tune the same as my 3.57 board.  I tried to see if it had as much of a reset issue as the 3.57 board but it responds the exact same way.  I'm  getting a nasty reset about 15-30 seconds after start up, its such a bad reset, I had to shut the car down, shut tunerstudio down, unplug the cable and then open tunerstudio back up and power up and it will come back online.  Doesn't fail though about 15 seconds in I see either a nasty voltage spike or a huge amount of noise on the coolant/ air sensors. The MS box will not show online without a powercycle and shutting tunerstudio down and opening it back up.  So in preparation I've broke down and ordered some magnacor wires and a new set of BPR6ES plugs.  I've got a punch list of things to do in order including a new alternator (not a reman this time)  We shall see how it goes.  Meanwhile we got a first gen supra running on my second MS over the weekend.  Went almost as smooth as a stock swap, a little tricky to get it to fire but once we got it it runs fantastic.No noise no resets. Got a decent tune using the VE analyze.. I'm TOTALLY jealous of how it turned out but happy to see a MS install go smooth after all of this trouble i've had.  I'll keep plugging away at my Datsun. One day it will be right or i'll go broke trying.

Edited by motomanmike
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The noise problem switches with just the battery hooked up. I took the belt off the alternator and disconnected the wiring to the alternator and ran a datalog. My signals for coolant and MAT all jump around badly when I run the car in that fashion, Hook the alternator back up and they stabilize, pretty much all signals then stabilize. Then I get voltage spikes, not many or huge. Just enough to cause a reset and go offline. I'm pretty certain its coming from the ignition circuit. I have magnacor wires on the way but with the holidays and new years shipping is greatly delayed apparently. I've probably got 30 hours in experimenting trying to kill the noise. Its the most frustrating part of MS in my opinion but everyone deals with it. I'll keep plugging away.

Edited by motomanmike
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A friend at work told me to put a diode on the positive wire that feeds the coil.  It isn't tied to megasquirt at all. Just a 12v switched out of the car harness that powers the coil 12v pos. I have not tried it yet.  I am directly firing the coil negative from S5 of the relay board.  Also I've toyed with this thing maybe 3 hours today.  I have totally removed the wideband at the moment to isolate it to just the core of MS itself. I question the use of the relay board. I'm not sure If I should just yank it out and get another harness form DIY just wire it directly. That way the 12v feed to the injectors and the fuel pump aren't anywhere near close to the MS.  My tach input is VERY stable.  I've got some nice 2 strand shielded wiring on it.  I have some left over I'm going to wire my IAT and CLT sensors with the 2 stranded shielded wiring but its very thin strand inside. I think it will be fine as long as I solder and heat shrink it well it should hold up to the vibration.  I've got a suspicion of many things.  Odd though.  I've moved grounds around. Disconnected grounds. Added grounds.  The problems just change what they are affecting but the one that stays consistent is battery voltage dips or spikes briefly followed by a reset.  I can't go any further with this swap until I figure it out because I can't even get a data log of more than say 30 seconds.  Its driving me NUTS!!!  I've updated to the 3.2.4 firmware, well it was updated when it came back from DIY.  Now that i'm using the usb connection tunerstudio randomly goes offline.  I'm pondering snatching up another cheap laptop to just try a serial port again but am afraid that the MS will cook another one and i'll have 2 crappy laptops with a bad serial port.  I'm determined to get this thing slayed.  I bought a cheap stereo noise filter.  I was going to wire it into the actual relay cable between the relay board and MS.  Well being so scared of frying stuff I got my continuity tester out. The noise filter had 3 wires, 12v in, 12v out and ground.  Touch 12v in to 12v out nice beep.  I touched 12v out to ground and got a slight beep then nothing.  Well I was scared so I hooked this thing up to a small sla battery i have a POP!! The capacitor in it popped and rolled smoke. I'm so glad I didn't hook this thing up to my MS.  Hopefully my plug wires will be here this week.  I could see the wires injecting noise into the coolant sensor as I'm using the stock head temp sensor for my coolant re calibrated to work with MS and its very close to all the spark plugs firing being right in the side of the cylinder head.

Edited by motomanmike
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Got an old weather radio out yesterday.  It screams very loud near the alternator.  That same noise carries into the relay board.  Very consistent with RPM.  So I figured i'd try to run the system Direct, not involving the 40 year old car harness at all.  I ran battery positive to starter stud. Battery negative to the block, and the output of the alternator direct back to the starter stud.  Didn't change anything with MS.  I still have voltage dips and spikes.  I unplugged everything I could, coolant, air temp sensor, wideband is out.   I still get the voltage drop or spike on a data log.  Hopefully the wires will be here this week and I can rule that out.

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Pulled it off its mount and just layed it on the floor mat. That didn't change anything.  I put my original old 280zx coil back on wondering if that might have been a problem after installing a flame thrower coil but, no change.

 

Could an AGM battery transmit more or not absorb or buffer as much noise than a regular flooded battery due to its composition?  Too cold here to do much more but i'm going to put the old lead acid back in and see how it acts if its warmer tomorrow.

 

Radio only has one speaker in the back.  I don't ever turn it on although it does work. 

 

Thanks for the thought everyone and keep them coming.  I'm running out of ideas. Biting at the bit to get these spark plug wires here just to scratch it off the list.

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