tyson Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Damn, that sucks Mike. I'm not sure which compound they used for me, but we called them up and told them what we were doing, the weight of the car and the wheel horsepower. They ran across the street to Autozone to get a set of pads to use as a template and a few days later they were on my doorstep. All I remember is that we had no brake fade, it was a very short track and with our horsepower it meant a lot of braking. When I went to bed them in on the street I did about 6 runs from 80mph to near zero and had no fade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Tyson, I used the XP12s (I think the letters are correct, I know the numbers were the 12s). Don't get me wrong, I'm not doubting your experience, and if I were in your shoes I'd run those pads for life, because they worked for you. Damn, that sucks Mike. I'm not sure which compound they used for me, but we called them up and told them what we were doing, the weight of the car and the wheel horsepower. They ran across the street to Autozone to get a set of pads to use as a template and a few days later they were on my doorstep. All I remember is that we had no brake fade, it was a very short track and with our horsepower it meant a lot of braking. When I went to bed them in on the street I did about 6 runs from 80mph to near zero and had no fade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Oh-all the pad options make my head hurt!! OK, here is where I am in my planning: A fellow forum member has sent me measurements for the 12.2" 4-piston kit from AZC. I'm gonna make a mock-up plate out of an aluminum sheet to see if this kit will fit the wheels in my collection of drag, street and road race wheels. If the kit looks to fit with minor mods like wheel spacers, I'm gonna plan to order it late this summer. Im favoring this kit based on good reviews as a true bolt-on. Also, i think this kit is the same for front and rear, so I may actually get to use that prop valve I installed. I don't have the energy at this point to re-plumb, so that recirc valve system is going in the archives to be reconsidered prn. Since we have talked so much about heat, I'm also liking this kit because of rotor ventilation. Will build a ducting system for track days only that quickly attaches in place of the headlights. I have to keep perspective that this is a street, drag, autocross car that may do 2-4 road course days a year and i think the ducting will be a liability most of the time when I'm apt to turn the wheel lock to lock on a regular basis in the office parking lot. I think I can survive without a parking brake-i have lots of chalk blocks since I got my trailer but an e-brake comes in handy sitting in line at the drags or just warming the engine up before a run. Where do I send the rotors for cryo? Is this a treatment that lasts the life of the rotor or do you have it redone every so often? Assuming I follow thru with this plan: what pads do you recommend for 1) street, 2) track days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 My parking brake calipers are on the way from Dave right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Awesome! Take pics and tell us how it goes. I would really like to have a parking brake since the car is multisport and commuter. I'm mostly interested in how the cable is routed etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Keith, I hate dual purpose pads. They simply don't work for my personal level of driving on the track, don't give the proper feedback and are more frustration than they are worth. Your car will hit some serious speeds, so I'd recommend a dual pad approach. find a good street pad that is quiet and works well for single stops at the drags, but gives enough stopping power for autoX (low heat there, so you don't need crazy bite) and then go with a GREAT trackpad for the track. You're already swapping wheels, so swapping out pads and bleeding the brakes for a real track event should be part of the routine anyway. I like Hawk Blacks, because they're cheap, they work very well in the application i have, and they last. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 MiKelly-I concur. The blacks would be track pads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 How the heck does that clear the wheel?? You have to roll on 22's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oaklandjester Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 We converted our Z over to AZ Dave's big vented rotors running 24 Hours of lemons endurance races. We completed a true 24 hours of racing at Sears Point this year in 3 days. NO ISSUES - brakes never faltered. - did blow out booster though. We are running a Wilwood 1" master, WW prop valve, no e brake. used a line lock, then it failed so we took it out. Very happy with AZ brakes. truly bolt on and took a beating, haven't ordered a second set of rotors yet but Dave says rotors are turntable and readily available. Contract to 260 Z running same event had to come to let front stock rotors cool, and change every night ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 Oaklandjester-what pads were you runing for that race? Same SET of pads for three days of racing? Are your brakes ducted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oaklandjester Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Dave sent them with our kit and I need to find out what they are . I believe they are wildwood pads .but they make several compounds . we did 24 hours and like beermanpete we have a lot of pad left and very little wear on the discs. We have vented disc front and back , We are very happy with the set up (1" WW MC and a pro portioning valve .) Tried a line lock as a parking brake and it stuck so we took it out no need for our use . Another Z (260) running stock brakes kept having to come in pits to cool brakes and has to change rotors every night . Needless to say we are very happy with the setup and the willwood parts are easy to obtain if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oaklandjester Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Fronts had ducts from the air dam but no alum hose. So not sure how much air it got. we are running at Thunderhill next and will fab some dryer hose duct. We did blow out the stock booster, probably the original unit. Just upgrading to the 8" one. Need to drill new firewall holes and drill and tap the brake pedal connector as the bolt on the new unit is bigger than the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oaklandjester Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Ok one to many expresso's tonight .... Here is a clip of our last race to give you an idea of how hard we push the brakes http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8EhBUXMtqx0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D8EhBUXMtqx0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 15, 2013 Author Share Posted July 15, 2013 I SUPER appreciate your advice and sharing-more expresso! I have a wheel at Dave's for a test fit/clearance plan-I should hear something any day now. I guess the easiest way to maintain brakes during a hard day of racing is to just inspect them, shrug your shoulders and say: "They're good!" I have enough engine torque that I just snapped the yoke of my driveshaft the other night. I'm gonna need some better stopping. My wife has been so super cool lately; told her I need a new brake system and she just said, "OK." Wow! Got lucky on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oaklandjester Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 I had fitment issues as well. i took a bunch of measurements and found some 15 inch rims would fit but some would not.. (depended on the radius between the rim and the basket.. (we were trolling craigs list for cheap wheels) so we just went with 16" rotas. When you install watch the LCA lip, I ground it 3 times for clearance, (we have the short knuckles with the bump steer drop), In the end I took Dave's advice and just cut off the end. no more clearance issues. When we repack the bearings i may weld a plate across where I cut do it doesn't look like such a hack job.. we cut them with the rotor on.... not the best way to get clean lines.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 What tool should I use to compress the wheel cylinders on these Wilwood dynalytes and superlytes that come with the AZC kit? I've been a c-clamp guy for years and I'm hoping there is a better tool for track side use that doesn't require removal of the caliper...getting closer. Meeting with welder today to finish up the modified rear caliper brackets. Have PM'd m1noel to beg pics of his p-brake cable routing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Something like this: http://m.ebay.com/itm/321240076921 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 John's work well but if you want ot buy a tool to also use at the track these are really good, http://www.girodisc.com/Caliper-piston-spreader_p_5970.html. You can also roll your own if you don't like the price. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Keep sending options, gurus! Thanks. I had somebody else recommend a big screwdriver. I know I have a habit of complicating things, but I broke a caliper piston once by prying on it and it made a simple operation a real pita. This brake kit has cost me more than the original purchase price of the car plus the first engine rebuild and I want to treat it with respect! Johnc, do I pry between the rotor and the pad before removing, or remove the pad, then pry between the rotor and the piston after removing the worn pads? I know this seems like a tool bin discussion but while I've done plenty of brake jobs, I want to do it like a race crew, the PROPER way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Leave the pad in, pry between the rotor and the pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.