FreddyZ78 Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Today I was driving my 78 280z, it was around 91 degrees outside and I stopped somewhere shut my car off and came back a few minutes later and it wouldn't start, the temp meter was almost 3/4's of the gauge. What can I do to prevent this from happening again? Any help is appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pac_Man Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Did you check the coolant level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 what is your setup? Stock, modified etc.... When I got my z 260 last October pretty much stock with 2 2brl weber's it ran great on short trips. My first road trip pegged the temp gauge. Ended up being the radiator. 39 years of wear and tear finally plugged it up to much. I bought a 3 row aluminum radiator and new water pump. Since I have had issues of getting heat in the motor. Of course 95 temp days it stays around 180 to 190 water temps or gauge reading right in the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreddyZ78 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 It is stock, I checked the coolant level after getting it home and letting it cool down completely. It was at a normal level. I replaced the thermostat about 2 months ago. So is it possible my radiator is plugged up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 So the car is still sitting where it wouldn't start or you had it towed somewhere? It has not started since then? It's probably cooled down so a plugged radiator wouldn't be a factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreddyZ78 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 No I sat there and waited for it to cool down enough to start it, about half an hour or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreddyZ78 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 Could my thermostat have gone bad already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) There's a problem with the L6 and EFI commonly called the "hot start" problem. Nissan installed a cooling fan for the fuel rail and injectors on the S130's to try and avoid it. Search "hot start" or "vapor lock" to get some ideas. Did the engine not start at all or did it start but run so bad that you shut it off and waited? Edited July 10, 2013 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreddyZ78 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 At first it didn't start at all, then after a little while it started but did run really rough, idling around 4-500rpms so I shut it off. Thank I'll search that right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) If you've removed any heat shields around the engine you should put them back. Also, winter blend gasoline seems to make the problem worse, for me anyway. So if you're still on a tank of winter gas, go get a fill of new gasoline. My engine had terrible hot start issues in the winter. Edited July 10, 2013 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreddyZ78 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 It does not have any heat shields. I didn't know there was one for the fuel rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Here>>>>>>>>>> on Ebaymart for two bills or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 Check that your fan clutch is still good, and be sure the radiator shroud is still there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreddyZ78 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 It didn't have a fan shroud when I bought the car. I have been looking for one but no luck yet. Yes, soon I'll buy a new aluminum radiator! Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 In the meantime you could pull out your stock radiator, Flush it out with water from both ends and see if you can't clean it out. You may even just take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it. It should be a lot cheaper than buying the Alum rad. Inspect your hoses while it's out, you could have a blocked of collapsing hose messing with your flow. I had my upper hose shred internally and pop on christmas day some 10 years ago during a "white christmas" storm on my way to my old GF's house. Needless to say I was about 3 hours late. Thanks to a hose it's awesome to see massive steam pour out of the 280Z hood vents though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 I've had the hot start issue and noticed that my gauge was always up at the three quarter mark after sitting. But my radiator was fine. It's just heat soak in to the thermostat housing once the coolant stops flowing. There is also heat flow in to the injectors and rail from the block and manifolds. Changing your radiator based on what happens when the engine isn't running wouldn't make sense. The radiator isn't really in use unless coolant is flowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreddyZ78 Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 So then how do I avoid getting heat soak without any of the fan shrouds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 You don't. This is covered over and over... The ZX's used a three second fuel pump prime to refill the rail and combat hot restart issues. Run a 160 thermostat in the summer to keep the blast furnace of the radiator only blowing 170-180 F air over your engine, and prime the fuel rail on restart before cranking and watch your summer heat soak problems go away entirely. If I can drive across the desert southwest towing an 800# trailer without hot restart problems in Mid June in 120F+ ambient s, 91 should be child's play! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreddyZ78 Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help! I'll try the thermostat first and see if that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Without the fuel prime, you don't address what causes the no-start. The prime keeps it running no matter which thermostat you have in there. This is a fuel issue, not an overheating issue. I just told you how to minimise it, unless you prime before hot restart, you will have this issue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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