IncompetentOne Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Hello there, I have a 77 280z 2+2 that I just finished a head swap on with all new gaskets everywhere. I have the manuals from xenons30 to help as well. Tonight was the first NIGHT that I was trying to drive the car after the rebuild. The car battery was dead (which I believe is a grounding issue) so I used mom's car to jump mine. It idled fine just as it was supposed to, and then I flicked on the lights and within seconds the car started to die. If I quickly turn the lights back off and rev again, the car slowly returns to a normal idle. I will take some pictures that may help find the problem as well. My instagram name is: melvinthemechanic if you have one. lots of pictures of the Z on there and the head swap as well. Thanks for any comments or help! If anyone knows where i can find a general list of ground wires that would be awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 (edited) Batteries take time to recharge. It's not instantaneous. Measure voltage while revving without the headlights on. Should be mid-13 to mid-14 volts. Or just watch the dash voltmeter before you start the engine and after. If it goes higher than it was at start, when revving, your alternator is working. If it just sits there, or slowly drops, you have a problem. Edited July 12, 2013 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncompetentOne Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 The volts are fine with the lights off. The car runs great with them off. and i have tested the alternator by completely removing the battery with the car running and it stayed running so i Know its not the alternator. I mainly think it has to do with a ground wire or two missing. If I leave the battery plugged in the car all night it will die, but if I unplug the battery and plug it in the next morning, the car will start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Your car won't run because the battery is discharged to the point that it can not provide enough voltage to the ignition system when other loads are placed on it. The battery is most likely bad such that it may never hold a charge. It may be discharging internally. Have the battery checked. If it is ok then put it on a charger for several hours while checking the voltage. If it is bad then replace it. With a volt meter you can check to see if there is a current draw from the battery when the car is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Since no one has said it yet, clean all the electrical contacts. There could be some shorting somewhere from rust/corrosion. More that likely you just need a new battery, but it won't hurt you to clean the wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfg Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 I got new Battery cables on mine and the difference was pretty big. Definitely worth trying if your cables are old. I had an issue where my battery wasn't charging and the engine would die after a couple minutes without touching anything. I got new cables, a new alternator, and replaced a fusible link. Then fully charged the battery and so far I haven't had another issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IncompetentOne Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Thanks guys! I have taken the battery to autozone a few times to get it recharged to 100% and they said it was fine. I just suspected it was me trying to start the car so many times after the rebuild that killed the battery. I will replace the battery soon and keep searching for ground wires that have been disconnected or any broken wires. ALSO: the white wires with the red stripes that lead to the fusible links and whatnot... is there a replaceent kit or should i just buy some of the same gauge wire and replace them one at a time? i need to surely change the fusible links... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yhlz Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 (edited) Im having the same damn problems. Haha. Also, when i drive it on the street it runs like a bat from hell for a few minutes, then it goes limp! My old man (the real mechanic), found a loose ground and reconnected it. The car ran fine for a while but then it started acting up again! I will definitely change out the battery cables and maybe get a new battery too. Will update. Edited August 7, 2013 by yhlz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Regarding replacing your fusible links....pls see recent discussions on this topic in the "Ignition and Electrical" sub-forum, and good luck tracking down the culprit(s). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masta tech Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 If your battery discharges overnight u may have a power drain, ask a real auto elec shop to test for batt drain when car off,,they wil find it in ten mins mate, also batts die in winter ,they juz stop receiving charge afta two odd years mate, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yhlz Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 i tried a good battery from another car and changed out the negative battery wire. Turning on the lights dont affect it anymore, so far. Hopefully you can try this out. I was having some issues with drivability also but after i changed the fuel filter, the car is running amazing again!! Who wouldve thought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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