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TonyB

1983 Turbo [King WZRD]

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Hello Hybridz. I am back with another 1983 280zx turbo 5speed. You may remember me from http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109641-1982-280zxt-log/ . I have been distant from the topic because after getting it fully back to stock, it got totaled :(

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Luckily no one was hurt and I was fully covered under my insurance. The insurance company was able to get me this

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I been working on getting this thing running smooth stock. Then after that Ill start adding more power. Overall this was a great start. Some things needed to be worked on asap. The clutch was getting pretty old when I first got the car and it recently gave. I am modernizing the engine as I replace and refresh the car. So far these have been added: 

 

Exhaust

3in SS Mandrel Bend

Walker Exhaust 15034

MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14419

LC1 Wideband and Autotimer Gauge (soon)

 

Brakes

Centric Slotted Rotors

Centric Calipers

New Brake Master Cylinder

New Brake Booster

Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Porterfield R4 AP229 AP230 pads

 

Ignition

NGK 4291 Spark Plugs

NGK 8mm Wires

 

Transmission

Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch Kit

Fidanza 10.5lb Flywheel

Felpro Rear Main Bearing Set

New Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder

 

New O2 Sensor

New PCV Valve

New Fuel Filter (Soon)

 

I am have issues smogging the car (Like every other Z out there). Even with all this stuff, the smog is off by a little. Idle speed and High Speed CO is about 3.5%, and it has to less than 1.29% Hydro Carbons are at 408, and they have to be less than 220. I put the timing at 24degrees. I'm going to push to back to 20.

 

I have an old ECCS analyzer and it showed injector 3 not firing. I can hear it ticking, but its off. So I plan to change all the injectors out. With these the fuel rail will be swapped for a Pallnet rail, the fuel pump for a Walbro255lph, new connectors will be put in, and a new fpr. 

 

Now have two questions for injector sizing. I want to use o-ring style injectors for the new rail, but I am still using the stock ecu. Can the stock ecu run around 300cc? I have looked online and got mixed answers. What o-ring injectors would run with stock ecu? What kind of fuel pressure regulator would I run with those injectors? 

 

I plan to log more often and with more pictures. 

 

Upcoming

New injectors

Pallnet Fuel Rail 11mm

Walboro 255 Fuel Pump

Inline fuel filter Fram G3

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Remember our injectors run at around 37 PSI whereas fuel injectors are rated on a pressure of 43.5 PSI. If our injectors which are rated at 279 and it's based on the stock fuel pressure they would be about 30 cc injectors. I couldn't find out if our stock injectors Are Based On Stock Fuel pressure or 43.5 PSI.

 

Another thing to consider is if you are going to upgrade for more power you will likely need bigger injectors - no sense in buying them twice.

 

Make sure you are getting power to your injector before you write it off. All the ECCS can tell you is if current is flowing through the injector - not if it is opening or has no power to it, bad ret urn, etc

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Well for now I have ordered the Walbro pump, new injector connectors, new sensor connectors, fuel filter, Fram g3 fuel filter, new oil (10w30), new oil filter, new dip stick, new wires and plugs, and a wideband. All this will be going in asap. I had to get a new dipstick because the one in the car is bent and I could never get and reading off it. I never see any oil leaks, so I didn't worry.

 

I will also be putting the timing down to 20. It is at around 23 right now. Hopefully this all helps out those smog devils.

 

There has to be some o ring injector close to stock spec. The Stock 7MGE (supra) 295cc injectors are close. Only they are high impedance and have a different connection. Is it possible to swap connections and impedance.  I have read on here somewhere its okay to use high impedance if the new injectors are close to spec. Then there's the red topped rb20det 270cc injectors that are high impedance as well.

 

Is it common for ZXs to burn oil? Also, my valve cover and fpr line smells slightly of gas.

Edited by TonyB

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I feel I should explain the title a bit. The original 82, that was totaled, was named WZRD as in wizard. I had plans for the look of the car to match the name. Unfortunately, the look will remain under wraps. The new 1983 280zx Turbo will have the look of my original plans.

 

I have a question about the fuel pump install. Is it basically direct swap? Obviously there is some minor modification. Do I need any other modifications like relays, fuses, etc. to get this Walbro 255 pump in?

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Concerning the valve cover, the smell is so faith and the engine runs so well. I figure it should be good for awhile till I get a rebuild. The engine is still cranking nonstop while the key is in the ON position. I swapped the ignition switch in the back of the ignition. That didn't work. I called up Borini, he said it may be the starter. What do you guys think? I will definitely be taking out the push to start. 

Edited by TonyB

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If it was a short at/in the starter it would turn as long as the big cable from the battery positive was connected.  Since yours only turns when the key is on you just have something providing power to the small wire (probably yellow) to the starter solenoid.  It's a wiring problem.

 

Wire colors are shown in the factory wiring diagrams.  It's not as hard as it seems once you dig in.  Start at the starter and work backward until you find out where the power is coming from.

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Yeah I would get it back to stock wiring. That is the first step.

 

As for the gas smell, if you don't notice any detrimental effects then I wouldn't worry, I was not trying to tell you that your engine needs to be rebuilt. Run it to the ground. Now if you get an A/F gauge in and find your basically rich all the time, then I would look into it. 

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K well I have been hunting for new stock injectors. I believe these beck/arnley 1580165 are correct for a stock turbo l28et. Anyone know of a good place to get them cheap. I was told I need to get these flow tested and port matched or something like that? What do you guys suggest. 

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Well its solved. Finally. The starter ground was running through a remote starter that was integrated into the alarm system. This was bypassed for now until a quality alarm is installed. Simple swap of the wiring and the right ignition switch solved it. 

 

Again I am still looking for stock turbo injectors. Let me know if you have a set. 

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K well I have been hunting for new stock injectors. I believe these beck/arnley 1580165 are correct for a stock turbo l28et. Anyone know of a good place to get them cheap. I was told I need to get these flow tested and port matched or something like that? What do you guys suggest. 

Rockauto.com shows $35.79 for that injector.  Other options too. 

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A few updates for you guys. A new set of stock injectors and injector connectors were installed. This really cleaned how it ran. I decided to swap the walboro pump in as well. Everything seems to working well. I am now moving on to the megasquirt install. The stock distributor will be used for now. I have read a ridiculous amount on MS now. I believe I have everything figured out. Here is my list for the MS install. I just want to make sure I got everything covered and I'm not missing anything. If there's are any suggestions you may have, lett me know.

 

Megasquirt II v3 $435

Relay Board $99

Relay Cable $85

Wiring Bundle $46

Pullup Resistors $2

IAT Sensor $23

Edited by TonyB

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I had the aeromotive fpr installed. We created bypass where the original fpr was and mounted the new fpr next to the fuel filter. I have the fpr set to around 35psi at idle with brand new stock injectors and a new walbro 255 pump. Everything seems good except just as boost comes on at lower rpms below 2500. When accelerating with these conditions, the car feels groggy. Like you give it gas, but it just doesn't want to go until I hit just around 2500. Any ideas? 

 

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Complete MS parts list. I am still looking for an intercooler (either NPR or etc) and a ka24 throttle body. 

Megasquirt II v3.57 $435

Relay Board  $99

Relay Cable $85

Wiring Bundle $46

Pullup Resistors $2

IAT Sensor $23

CLT Sensor $18

Trigger Wheel $28

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Thanks, I think I have figured out my issues with the fuel. The pump currently is wired into the stock wiring. I heard about some Z drivers using a headlight relay to get a solid 12v to the pump. How exactly does one wire this up? 

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