TonyB Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Hello Hybridz. I am back with another 1983 280zx turbo 5speed. You may remember me from http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109641-1982-280zxt-log/ . I have been distant from the topic because after getting it fully back to stock, it got totaled Luckily no one was hurt and I was fully covered under my insurance. The insurance company was able to get me this I been working on getting this thing running smooth stock. Then after that Ill start adding more power. Overall this was a great start. Some things needed to be worked on asap. The clutch was getting pretty old when I first got the car and it recently gave. I am modernizing the engine as I replace and refresh the car. So far these have been added: Exhaust 3in SS Mandrel Bend Walker Exhaust 15034 MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers 14419 LC1 Wideband and Autotimer Gauge (soon) Brakes Centric Slotted Rotors Centric Calipers New Brake Master Cylinder New Brake Booster Stainless Steel Brake Lines Porterfield R4 AP229 AP230 pads Ignition NGK 4291 Spark Plugs NGK 8mm Wires Transmission Exedy Stage 1 Organic Racing Clutch Kit Fidanza 10.5lb Flywheel Felpro Rear Main Bearing Set New Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder New O2 Sensor New PCV Valve New Fuel Filter (Soon) I am have issues smogging the car (Like every other Z out there). Even with all this stuff, the smog is off by a little. Idle speed and High Speed CO is about 3.5%, and it has to less than 1.29% Hydro Carbons are at 408, and they have to be less than 220. I put the timing at 24degrees. I'm going to push to back to 20. I have an old ECCS analyzer and it showed injector 3 not firing. I can hear it ticking, but its off. So I plan to change all the injectors out. With these the fuel rail will be swapped for a Pallnet rail, the fuel pump for a Walbro255lph, new connectors will be put in, and a new fpr. Now have two questions for injector sizing. I want to use o-ring style injectors for the new rail, but I am still using the stock ecu. Can the stock ecu run around 300cc? I have looked online and got mixed answers. What o-ring injectors would run with stock ecu? What kind of fuel pressure regulator would I run with those injectors? I plan to log more often and with more pictures. Upcoming New injectors Pallnet Fuel Rail 11mm Walboro 255 Fuel Pump Inline fuel filter Fram G3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Remember our injectors run at around 37 PSI whereas fuel injectors are rated on a pressure of 43.5 PSI. If our injectors which are rated at 279 and it's based on the stock fuel pressure they would be about 30 cc injectors. I couldn't find out if our stock injectors Are Based On Stock Fuel pressure or 43.5 PSI. Another thing to consider is if you are going to upgrade for more power you will likely need bigger injectors - no sense in buying them twice. Make sure you are getting power to your injector before you write it off. All the ECCS can tell you is if current is flowing through the injector - not if it is opening or has no power to it, bad ret urn, etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 (edited) Well for now I have ordered the Walbro pump, new injector connectors, new sensor connectors, fuel filter, Fram g3 fuel filter, new oil (10w30), new oil filter, new dip stick, new wires and plugs, and a wideband. All this will be going in asap. I had to get a new dipstick because the one in the car is bent and I could never get and reading off it. I never see any oil leaks, so I didn't worry. I will also be putting the timing down to 20. It is at around 23 right now. Hopefully this all helps out those smog devils. There has to be some o ring injector close to stock spec. The Stock 7MGE (supra) 295cc injectors are close. Only they are high impedance and have a different connection. Is it possible to swap connections and impedance. I have read on here somewhere its okay to use high impedance if the new injectors are close to spec. Then there's the red topped rb20det 270cc injectors that are high impedance as well. Is it common for ZXs to burn oil? Also, my valve cover and fpr line smells slightly of gas. Edited December 22, 2013 by TonyB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 21, 2013 Author Share Posted December 21, 2013 I feel I should explain the title a bit. The original 82, that was totaled, was named WZRD as in wizard. I had plans for the look of the car to match the name. Unfortunately, the look will remain under wraps. The new 1983 280zx Turbo will have the look of my original plans. I have a question about the fuel pump install. Is it basically direct swap? Obviously there is some minor modification. Do I need any other modifications like relays, fuses, etc. to get this Walbro 255 pump in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 It should be a direct swap. Regarding the gas smell in the crankcase you may be pouring too much gas in and/or your rings are going out. If it has more than 100k miles then I would bet on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 (edited) Concerning the valve cover, the smell is so faith and the engine runs so well. I figure it should be good for awhile till I get a rebuild. The engine is still cranking nonstop while the key is in the ON position. I swapped the ignition switch in the back of the ignition. That didn't work. I called up Borini, he said it may be the starter. What do you guys think? I will definitely be taking out the push to start. Edited December 22, 2013 by TonyB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 If it was a short at/in the starter it would turn as long as the big cable from the battery positive was connected. Since yours only turns when the key is on you just have something providing power to the small wire (probably yellow) to the starter solenoid. It's a wiring problem. Wire colors are shown in the factory wiring diagrams. It's not as hard as it seems once you dig in. Start at the starter and work backward until you find out where the power is coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 I just realized i have been typing crankcase this whole time. I MEANT VALVE COVER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 They're connected anyway. Moot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Yeah I would get it back to stock wiring. That is the first step. As for the gas smell, if you don't notice any detrimental effects then I wouldn't worry, I was not trying to tell you that your engine needs to be rebuilt. Run it to the ground. Now if you get an A/F gauge in and find your basically rich all the time, then I would look into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Funny you mention that. An innovate wide band is getting installed too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 K well I have been hunting for new stock injectors. I believe these beck/arnley 1580165 are correct for a stock turbo l28et. Anyone know of a good place to get them cheap. I was told I need to get these flow tested and port matched or something like that? What do you guys suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 The push to start was removed and a new starter and ignition switch was installed. Still getting no crank. I have a buddy who is going to get the wiring tomorrow. Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 Well its solved. Finally. The starter ground was running through a remote starter that was integrated into the alarm system. This was bypassed for now until a quality alarm is installed. Simple swap of the wiring and the right ignition switch solved it. Again I am still looking for stock turbo injectors. Let me know if you have a set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 K well I have been hunting for new stock injectors. I believe these beck/arnley 1580165 are correct for a stock turbo l28et. Anyone know of a good place to get them cheap. I was told I need to get these flow tested and port matched or something like that? What do you guys suggest. Rockauto.com shows $35.79 for that injector. Other options too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) A few updates for you guys. A new set of stock injectors and injector connectors were installed. This really cleaned how it ran. I decided to swap the walboro pump in as well. Everything seems to working well. I am now moving on to the megasquirt install. The stock distributor will be used for now. I have read a ridiculous amount on MS now. I believe I have everything figured out. Here is my list for the MS install. I just want to make sure I got everything covered and I'm not missing anything. If there's are any suggestions you may have, lett me know. Megasquirt II v3 $435 Relay Board $99 Relay Cable $85 Wiring Bundle $46 Pullup Resistors $2 IAT Sensor $23 Edited April 22, 2014 by TonyB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 After talking with Phil at DIYautotune, I have added the upgraded trigger wheel to my distributor when I go MS2. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_diyautotune_nissan_trigger_discs.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 I had the aeromotive fpr installed. We created bypass where the original fpr was and mounted the new fpr next to the fuel filter. I have the fpr set to around 35psi at idle with brand new stock injectors and a new walbro 255 pump. Everything seems good except just as boost comes on at lower rpms below 2500. When accelerating with these conditions, the car feels groggy. Like you give it gas, but it just doesn't want to go until I hit just around 2500. Any ideas? Complete MS parts list. I am still looking for an intercooler (either NPR or etc) and a ka24 throttle body. Megasquirt II v3.57 $435 Relay Board $99 Relay Cable $85 Wiring Bundle $46 Pullup Resistors $2 IAT Sensor $23 CLT Sensor $18 Trigger Wheel $28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Nice looking car , pretty straight and clean . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks, I think I have figured out my issues with the fuel. The pump currently is wired into the stock wiring. I heard about some Z drivers using a headlight relay to get a solid 12v to the pump. How exactly does one wire this up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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