Floor pan insulation

[daddydonuts]

I have mint floor boards in my 73, but I am having the bright idea to use POR-15 to better protect them prior to installing new carpet. How or what is the easiest way to remove the insulation, that I am guessing, was installed from the factory?

Edited December 30, 2013 by daddydonuts

[socorob]

Dry ice.

[daddydonuts]

Dry ice.

That sounds scary

[seattlejester]

If you are positive that they are mint, wait for a cold day and use a chisel and a hammer, if you are fancy an air hammer with a chisel will pop most of it off quickly.

Edited December 30, 2013 by seattlejester

[daddydonuts]

If you are positive that they are mint, wait for a gold day and use a chisel and a hammer, if you are fancy an air hammer with a chisel will pop most of it off quickly.

That I could do. Would it be wise to either leave the insulation in place and paint over it? Or just remove it?

[nullbound]

That sounds scary

 

But it works.  I used dry ice earlier this year to remove the old insulation in my '71.

[NewZed]

I have mint floor boards in my 73, but I am having the bright idea to use POR-15 to better protect them

Aren't you just asking for problems?  They're mint!

[seattlejester]

Oh yes, the dry ice approach would definitely help if it doesn't get to freezing temps in your garage. The material is designed to dampen noise and vibration as well as keep out or keep in heat. By using dry ice (available at quite a few places) or waiting for a cold day you basically remove it's ability to adhere to the surface and to dampen the poundings of the chisel. Just don't touch the stuff with your bare hands. Throw some chunks in the spots you want to work on, let it chill as it evaporates (make sure to stay in a vented area, pure co2 can displace enough oxygen to knock you out in a confined space), and hit it with an edged tool and see it break off in pieces.

 

And just to clarify this is the large rubber like mats that is stuck to the interior not the underside of the floor pan yes?

 

And to finally answer your question, you could paint over it if the floors are in good shape. If you are going to remove it, and this is not going to be a full on race car, you will probably have to install some kind of insulation after it is treated like dynomat or something of that nature. Your choice really.

Edited December 30, 2013 by seattlejester

[daddydonuts]

Aren't you just asking for problems? They're mint!

I live in GA, lots of humidity.

[daddydonuts]

Oh yes, the dry ice approach would definitely help if it doesn't get to freezing temps in your garage. The material is designed to dampen noise and vibration as well as keep out or keep in heat. By using dry ice (available at quite a few places) or waiting for a cold day you basically remove it's ability to adhere to the surface and to dampen the poundings of the chisel. Just don't touch the stuff with your bare hands. Throw some chunks in the spots you want to work on, let it chill as it evaporates (make sure to stay in a vented area, pure co2 can displace enough oxygen to knock you out in a confined space), and hit it with an edged tool and see it break off in pieces.

 

And just to clarify this is the large rubber like mats that is stuck to the interior not the underside of the floor pan yes?

 

And to finally answer your question, you could paint over it if the floors are in good shape. If you are going to remove it, and this is not going to be a full on race car, you will probably have to install some kind of insulation after it is treated like dynomat or something of that nature. Your choice really.

If it doesn't hurt to leave the insulation on the floor pans and paint over it, I am going that route. I just don't want to create a place for rust to live under that insulation.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Definitely dry ice.

 

Works like a charm.

[BluDestiny]

+1 for dry ice, a hammer, and a plastic chisel. I've done 4 cars like that and it really is the only way to do it properly without leaving tiny chunks on the pans. 

[socorob]

I used 2 blocks to do the whole inside of the car. I also used the dremel max tool that vibrates back and forth with a scraper blade. Took it right off. The 2 blocks lasted long enough to do the whole inside of the car in mid to high 90 degree weather with about the same humidity. If I had to do it again I would get enough dry ice to cover 1/2 the car. Then you could knock it out in no time. Also may be able to do the underside of the pan at the same time. My car had surface rust under some of the original tar so I'm glad I removed it when I did.

[Daz]

Plus there maybe rust under that deadening crap ! There was when I removed it from my Z.

[seattlejester]

Hmm, the fact it is very humid could very well be concerning. Painting over the insulation with por15 won't be doing much, it would just be protecting the exposed bits. I guess it would be sealing the floor and the insulation together to prevent any further moisture, but that won't stop any preexisting rust from eating away.

 

As mentioned, if they are mint, then it doesn't need to be removed since there would really be no net gain, but considering it is a 40 year old car it may not be as mint as you think they are.

 

Any pictures?

[daddydonuts]

It's still the original color from the factory. I am going to remove the insulation then treat it.

 

[daddydonuts]

Hmm, the fact it is very humid could very well be concerning. Painting over the insulation with por15 won't be doing much, it would just be protecting the exposed bits. I guess it would be sealing the floor and the insulation together to prevent any further moisture, but that won't stop any preexisting rust from eating away.

 

As mentioned, if they are mint, then it doesn't need to be removed since there would really be no net gain, but considering it is a 40 year old car it may not be as mint as you think they are.

 

Any pictures?

They are solid...but I do need to remove it to prevent any rust...thanks for the advice