fyanrudger Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Usually don't post stuff like this, but I spent some decent money on it and the car isn't drivable, so I might as well show it off some. All work besides the front camber plates was done by ASC Speed Metal in San Diego (@ascspeedmetal on instagram is updated most often). Great work, great communication, great turnaround time. Asked for a simple SSCA legal cage tied to the front towers with enough room to cruise it on the street without banging my head and a proper mount for my Kirkey seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 More. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 I don't know how that could look ANY better. I wish I had done my harness bar like you did-it gives additional room for shoulder belt adjustment. Beware, that door bar configuration is great for drag racing but you will smack your elbow frequently if sawing away on the steering wheel at autocross or road race. I did mine the same way to be NHRA compliant, and my elbow is really crowded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 The front hoop/headache bar might be a little too far back from the A pillars and top of the windshield to pass SCCA or NASA tech. Its a close call and you could appeal to the Divisional tech steward if local tech disallows it. You might also have an issue with the legs of the main hoop. Although there's nothing in the current SCCA GCR, in the past the main hoop could not have a total number of bends greater then 180 degrees (+/- 10 degrees). Some SCCA old timers might still want to enforce that. NASA still has that rule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 I don't know how that could look ANY better. I wish I had done my harness bar like you did-it gives additional room for shoulder belt adjustment. Beware, that door bar configuration is great for drag racing but you will smack your elbow frequently if sawing away on the steering wheel at autocross or road race. I did mine the same way to be NHRA compliant, and my elbow is really crowded. Thanks. Yeah, thought about the elbow room a bit. Hopefully won't be too bad, but I'm okay with a couple of bumps (see the accurate rendition of me in my avatar). The front hoop/headache bar might be a little too far back from the A pillars and top of the windshield to pass SCCA or NASA tech. Its a close call and you could appeal to the Divisional tech steward if local tech disallows it. You might also have an issue with the legs of the main hoop. Although there's nothing in the current SCCA GCR, in the past the main hoop could not have a total number of bends greater then 180 degrees (+/- 10 degrees). Some SCCA old timers might still want to enforce that. NASA still has that rule. Designer said he consulted SCCA rule book. Not familiar with the rules on the front bar, but he definitely mentioned the same rule about the main hoop in casual conversation, so I'm sure ("confident hope") it's within spec. I guess I'll cross both these issues when the time comes, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Never2BeFinished Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Fyanrudger, thats fantastic work they did. May i ask what you paid for your services? Im only an hour north in Orange County Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Was not cheap, but worth it. Work for the cage was $3500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Nice welding there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) This thread is getting a little old since the OP posted anything, so I hope you don't mind this little addition. Do you plan to have roll-up windows or gutted doors? If gutted doors (for drag and landspeed events they prefer the windows up (keep trash from flying in and hitting you in the eye) and for sports car racing they like the windows down (to be able to drag your dead arse out after hitting the wall before you are a crispy critter so there's something to display at your funeral). If gutting the doors, get those door bars out where you have some room to work the steering wheel. Or, if you can cut those out then install the door panels, door handles and window cranks and have your fabricator try to lay the bar so close to the door panel that you can only fit a zip tie in between the bar and the panel. By taking the time to put a couple of very shallow, well placed bends in the door bar, my fabricator could have given me 1/2" more space in places and a full inch in other places. As it is now, I don't have room for padding. I will keep a couple of sticks of padding and zip ties in my race box for that one inspector who draws a line over no padding (I wouldn't blame him), but that padding is right in my ribs and elbow at present. I have just received a set of AZC quick steer steering knuckles to try to fix my elbow room problem on tight road course turns. I also have installed a thinner steering wheel adapter to straighten my arms a bit and I have moved my seat back an inch but added some foam in my lower back of the seat to keep the clutch within reach (I have short legs). Just trying to straighten my arms as much as reasonable. If I ever decide to tackle adding A-pillars and a headache bar to my cage, reworked door bars are definitely in order. But by then I may be looking at dzus fastener style plexi door glass, so the doors can be gutted. Every year something new! Sorry so wordy. Edited January 11, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Still a wannabe street car, so the cage was made with door panels fitted and everything but the arm rests survived. Door latch is a bit of a stretch, though. Been busy, but...I think tomorrow...I'm welding in a quick-release mount for the steering wheel and will be figuring out decent spacing to keep my elbow happy. The Kirkey seat I bought has me well-contained otherwise: https://www.kirkeyracing.com/product/10/71700/SEAT-ALUMINUM-17-STANDARD-20-LAYBACK-ROAD-RACE-CONTAINMENT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendanm71240z Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Came out awesome! Never seen that style of cage on a Z, looks like something you might see on a pro drift car.Whats keeping you from driving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 That's a lotta seat! If you have any trouble with that seat back brace, I am really happy with my AutoPower adjustable seat brace from I/O Port Racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Rewire, lack of paint, and lack of some fiberglass parts. Hopefully soon...as work permits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 John, That rule in NASA is apparently region dependent. I've had several NASA tech folks look at my cage and although it has bends totalling more than 180 degrees, they all agreed they would pass my cage for competition. The front hoop/headache bar might be a little too far back from the A pillars and top of the windshield to pass SCCA or NASA tech. Its a close call and you could appeal to the Divisional tech steward if local tech disallows it. You might also have an issue with the legs of the main hoop. Although there's nothing in the current SCCA GCR, in the past the main hoop could not have a total number of bends greater then 180 degrees (+/- 10 degrees). Some SCCA old timers might still want to enforce that. NASA still has that rule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 How it's enforced is regional but if you download the NASA. Pro Racing rule book it's in there. NoCal and SoCal NASA regions are pretty strict. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyanrudger Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 This thread is getting a little old since the OP posted anything, so I hope you don't mind this little addition. Do you plan to have roll-up windows or gutted doors? If gutted doors (for drag and landspeed events they prefer the windows up (keep trash from flying in and hitting you in the eye) and for sports car racing they like the windows down (to be able to drag your dead arse out after hitting the wall before you are a crispy critter so there's something to display at your funeral). If gutting the doors, get those door bars out where you have some room to work the steering wheel. Or, if you can cut those out then install the door panels, door handles and window cranks and have your fabricator try to lay the bar so close to the door panel that you can only fit a zip tie in between the bar and the panel. By taking the time to put a couple of very shallow, well placed bends in the door bar, my fabricator could have given me 1/2" more space in places and a full inch in other places. As it is now, I don't have room for padding. I will keep a couple of sticks of padding and zip ties in my race box for that one inspector who draws a line over no padding (I wouldn't blame him), but that padding is right in my ribs and elbow at present. I have just received a set of AZC quick steer steering knuckles to try to fix my elbow room problem on tight road course turns. I also have installed a thinner steering wheel adapter to straighten my arms a bit and I have moved my seat back an inch but added some foam in my lower back of the seat to keep the clutch within reach (I have short legs). Just trying to straighten my arms as much as reasonable. If I ever decide to tackle adding A-pillars and a headache bar to my cage, reworked door bars are definitely in order. But by then I may be looking at dzus fastener style plexi door glass, so the doors can be gutted. Every year something new! Sorry so wordy. Thought about making a separate topic, but figured I'd try here first. Spacing isn't that bad on the wheel, but my elbows are definitely an issue. Bought a weld-on quick release and the shortest adapter for my nardi wheel. Even cutting a half inch out of the quick release mount, I still need another inch to not bash my elbow. My friend suggested an aftermarket steering column with the bonus of it being collapsible. Obviously anything is possible with enough fab, but is there a column being recommended for our cars? Searching didn't show anything... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Collapsible-Steering-Column-22-1-2-32-Inch,14416.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Woodward also makes some nice pieces. Often can be found on ebay from ex NASCAR at bargain prices. Or you can add in the OEM collapsible pieces somewhere in the column. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) From the way mine feels, the elbow bashing is really only a problem when I turn the wheel such that my hand is at the bottom most point on the wheel. I can solve the problem by shuffling my hands, but my coach wants me to stop my autocross-inspired hand shuffling and stay locked in at 10&2. Seems like tilting the wheel down would really help too if that were possible. Lean your seat back a bunch to straighten those arms and that will help too. I'm thinking about a smaller steering wheel too-after power steering. Try to maximize the little things before ripping the heart out of the car. I did not do a steering wheel quick release as it only seemed to lengthen the column. I have finally adapted to the longer reach on the clutch pedal required by moving my seat back another notch. Compromise is a cruel mistress. Edited January 19, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aongch Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Nice work! I might look them up in the future if competition is the next step. I'm local enough just north of OC. Keep posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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