thezguy Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) Does anyone know if ARP makes a factory length wheel stud for the 280? Im looking to upgrade my wheel studs but need factory length and thread pitch. I can't seem to find anything besides local auto parts store brands Edited March 2, 2015 by thezguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypertek Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 whats wrong with the auto parts stores lugs? As long as you torque them down, I can't imagine you having any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) Just being proactive i suppose. The car is making close to 1000WHP on 4 lugs Edited March 2, 2015 by thezguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malibud Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I think I would be more worried with an aluminum/ alloy wheel breaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 The grade of the stud is 10.9 which is pretty stout. I was just seeing if there was anything stronger out there. On a side note. Does anyone know the diameter of the hole that the studs fit into? I will be modifying some 5 lug hubs to 4 lug today and need the hole diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 There are a few threads on wheel studs in this forum where the diameter is specified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) You can make 1000 HP but can't find the size of a wheel stud? Reminds of a guy I knew who spent a lot of time bench-pressing to build a big chest, but had tiny bird legs. Here's something Google found with some words I remembered. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95937-78-datsun-280z-53-build/page-16 #308 and on Edited March 2, 2015 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) You can make 1000 HP but can't find the size of a wheel stud? Reminds of a guy I knew who spent a lot of time bench-pressing to build a big chest, but had tiny bird legs. Here's something Google found with some words I remembered. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95937-78-datsun-280z-53-build/page-16 #308 and on Maybe if you learned how to read properly you would have realized Im not asking for the size/length of the wheel stud rather the bore diameter in which it sits. That thread is completely useless to me. In the future please refrain from arrogant useless comments in my threads. By the way Incase anyone else is Interested the factory bore size on the hub for a factory wheel studs .490 it then tappers down to .470 where the Knurles actually sit. Edited March 2, 2015 by thezguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 There are a few threads on wheel studs in this forum where the diameter is specified. Yes I read quite a few but I did not see any that provided the specific awnser a I was looking for ie. Taper/lead pitch. I guess I should have been more specific than "size of hole" I was able to run home at lunch and take proper measurements though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97317-extended-wheel-studs/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97317-extended-wheel-studs/ Great info there. I'm debating on making the ARP switch and that would get me what I needed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I guess I should have been more specific than "size of hole" I was able to run home at lunch and take proper measurements though. Make up your mind, was it me or is it you? I took the inflammatory part out, and left the funny stuff. No need to be so sensitive. You left yourself open. What you wanted, ARP studs, is in the thread I linked - "just buy the F Body camaro ones, the knurl diameter is like .002 larger.". The answer to your question is indirectly on the ARP web site - they don't list one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 Make up your mind, was it me or is it you? I took the inflammatory part out, and left the funny stuff. No need to be so sensitive. You left yourself open. What you wanted, ARP studs, is in the thread I linked - "just buy the F Body camaro ones, the knurl diameter is like .002 larger.". The answer to your question is indirectly on the ARP web site - they don't list one. The original question was not a size question it was wether or not ARP made a direct replacement. In the middle of the topic I asked another question. The F body will not work as they are to long. The closest sized ARP stud to our factory units are the 100-7709 if I decide to go that route I will be using these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Hmm kind of interested in your rear end setup. 1000hp is a lot, if you run big sticky tires, then you run into half shaft problems, you run big half shafts you run into stub axle problems, you run big stub axles, you run into diff problems, you run a bigger diff, you run into drive shaft problems? I'm curious where you've shifted your weak point. I mean at those levels of power it would be quite proactive to look at wheel studs, although I think it takes more effort to snap a well torqued stud then it would to break the tires loose, I mean I've seen wheel centers break before stock studs, but I imagine you go wide and sticky enough and throw enough power at it that would also fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 (edited) Hmm kind of interested in your rear end setup. 1000hp is a lot, if you run big sticky tires, then you run into half shaft problems, you run big half shafts you run into stub axle problems, you run big stub axles, you run into diff problems, you run a bigger diff, you run into drive shaft problems? I'm curious where you've shifted your weak point. I mean at those levels of power it would be quite proactive to look at wheel studs, although I think it takes more effort to snap a well torqued stud then it would to break the tires loose, I mean I've seen wheel centers break before stock studs, but I imagine you go wide and sticky enough and throw enough power at it that would also fail. So for what it's worth I ended up using the ARP 100-7709 which is the closest length to stock. I bought some 1.50 lug nuts and I'm in business! Ah failures.. Yes I know them well. From the wheel inwards I have 39spline CF stubs/CF 6 bolt adapters/Z32 6 bolt CV/MM axle/Z32 6 bolt CV/Z32 inner stub axle. With this HP and a manual trans I'm asking for trouble. I suppose the next weak link is the inners but we will see what happens. I have adapted the way I launch the car so Im hoping for the best. My goal for the car is a 9 sec pass. With the ability to trap 145mph with a 2.0 60ft that shouldn't be to hard without stressing the car with massive launch. This video was when I broke the 27spline stock stubs lol! I have since learned to pre load the drivetrain to take the stress out of the driveline. Edited March 3, 2015 by thezguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Oh wow, not even through an automatic, that's quite a bit of power to manage. That is unfortunate regarding the stock stub axles, did they survive a couple passes at least? Glad to see it was quickly remedied though. Hmm I wonder if the inner stubs would go or if the diff starts asking for trouble. I imagine you have a new drive shaft to accommodate the swap? Well glad you found the studs you were looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 My goal for the car is a 9 sec pass. With the ability to trap 145mph with a 2.0 60ft that shouldn't be to hard without stressing the car with massive launch. Seems like 9 should be fairly easy since the potential is well in to the 7's. Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 2400 pounds and HP of 1000 is7.80 seconds and MPH of 173.29 MPH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 (edited) Seems like 9 should be fairly easy since the potential is well in to the 7's. Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 2400 pounds and HP of 1000 is7.80 seconds and MPH of 173.29 MPH. The car weights 2960 without the driver. The 145mph trap was on 14/15lbs of boost (roughly 700hp range.) The car is capable of much more, it is only now in the 1000HP range. I'm hoping to get it on the dyno before TX2K15.. There are A LOT of 1200+ HP cars to compete against. Edited March 3, 2015 by thezguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Oh wow, not even through an automatic, that's quite a bit of power to manage. That is unfortunate regarding the stock stub axles, did they survive a couple passes at least? Glad to see it was quickly remedied though. Hmm I wonder if the inner stubs would go or if the diff starts asking for trouble. I imagine you have a new drive shaft to accommodate the swap? Well glad you found the studs you were looking for. Yeah I'm asking for trouble but I dont have the heart to swap the manual for a timeslip, it's to much fun to drive the way it is. The driveshaft is a balanced steel unit. I'm sure it will go next. However I don't plan on fixing it untill it's broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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