If you were in my shoes what suspension route would you go

[McDoogle]

So im restoring my 260z and needless to say it needs a lot of work.  Its got engine problems, tires showing wire, brakes that dont work, dents, peeling paint, registration needs to be paid, and of coarse a very blown suspension setup.  Im trying to take care of the engine problem atm, next I will be ordering steel brake lines and maybe pads and rotors. Im collecting body parts and prepping them for paint but even though i can do that myself the paint is so damn expensive.  The tires will be last because i may get bigger wheels and dont want to buy two sets of tires.  Needless to say this is an expensive project and Im trying to find inexpensive routes to get everything done because im just a young dude living in california were rent is stupid expensive.  I wont know how much i have to spend on suspension until the time comes but by the looks of it im gonna say tokico illuminas are out of the question.  I was thinking of getting kybs and using lowering springs on them as a temp since i want it a little lowered.  it looks like i can get the kybs for like 180 vs the illuminas being around 650.  Saving $470 is HUGE for me.  I would likely still save to get the illuminas but i pretty much cant drive the car with the suspension the way it is and i want to get it on the road.  The other option I have thought of but i dont know if its a good idea is to buy the fronts(needed the most) and install them and wait till i get the money for the rear.  so my questions are:

 

How long would you expect the kybs to last with lowering springs?

Is there a shock cheaper then the tokico blues but better than the kybs for use with lowering springs?

Is replacing the fronts then the rears a bad idea?

Am i pretty much limited to kybs with stock springs or waiting it out and getting something proper?

[RebekahsZ]

If you know you are never gonna race and money is tight, get parts-house shocks. Lowering springs don't dramatically stiffen the spring rate. Save your money till you can do home-made coil-overs, Konis and 2.5" springs with a 250-ish spring rate, only going stiffer than that for dedicated race duty for a specific purpose.

[veritech-z]

If money is that tight, this may not be the advice you want to hear, but you might consider walking away from this one and coming back to it when you are in a better position to do it right. 

[nullbound]

^This.

 

Based on your description of just wanting to lower it a little and being cost conscious, take a look at this option: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117631-new-s30-shock-and-spring-option/

 

The second page shows a before and after ride height shots on a 240.

 

These are very well priced. You can get Stagg springs and Vogtland shocks for $294: http://brandcarparts.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=desc&order=price&q=260z

 

I don't know of a better priced option for all four corners. There's more involved, though, than just replacing shocks and springs. You should also be checking all bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, etc. These things can add up quick.

[NewZed]

Cut your stock springs and get some KYB's.  KYB's have worked for many people with lowered cars.

[JMortensen]

I had cut springs and KYBs on my first Z. Worked fine. 

[trackzpeed]

Use cut down chevy chevette springs with KYB's.  This combo has been autocrossed successfully for years with decent street manners to boot.  Springs start at 200 lbs but that goes up with cut springs.... There is a formula for this but I don't recall it off the top of my head. 

[McDoogle]

Why cut springs?  id rather just get the kybs and lowering springs.  Thanks for the input guys

[JMortensen]

Cutting springs is free if you have a cutoff wheel and a die grinder. It also stiffens the spring a little by making it shorter. Don't cut springs with a torch, bad idea, but with a cutoff wheel is OK and you wanted cheap, so that's why people are suggesting it.

[trackzpeed]

lowering springs are not always great performers as they can coil bind.  Usually they are a progressive..... the softer coils bottom out under the load of the car resulting in lost travel and performance.  my .02   

[Team Zleep]

My KYB's and old (gray) Tokiko springs work GREAT. 

 

Just install them properly and run bump stops. It's firm, handles great (everything else is poly or new), and isn't too jarring of a ride. For the price, it works fine.

 

 

My vote is KYB's (with good bump stops) and cut springs for your budget. Had that on my first Z as well... Was fine. Coil bind sucks, btw.

[Michael]

If money is that tight, this may not be the advice you want to hear, but you might consider walking away from this one and coming back to it when you are in a better position to do it right. 

 This is a very fair point.  It's difficult to justify indulging in a hobby, when comparative necessities go neglected. 

 

Nevertheless, there's much to be said for a cheap option that gets a dilapidated older car back on the road safely.  It should be cheap even if plenty of funds are available, because the owner/driver is still experimenting and hasn't yet converged towards a cogent plan for what's reasonable to do with the car.

 

For that purpose, the most logical route is stock-replacement.  But what truly "stock" options do we have for 40-year-old cars?  And how can one so contain one's enthusiasm - even on a stringent budget - to effect strict remediation and maintenance, with no eye towards modifications or improvement?

 

Returning to technical matters, I also recommend cutting the stock springs (with a hacksaw).  This procedure would also be excellent occasion to renew the various bushings.