Jboogsthethug's 1971 240z build

[Jboogsthethug]

OK, I am finally getting around to updating this dang thing. I'm probably going to update it a little at a time to keep things flowing, there are a ton of updates!

 

Firstly, I did get the push start to work! I can't quite remember how now though ha. I will be redoing it soon so I'll update exactly how it was done when I do!

 

Back to the main goodies.

So after installing all those little things, I set out to get the engine back in working order.

 

I bought a nice breather filter for the top of the crankcase. Looked awesome and from the research I did I felt like it would help things out. I also picked up some 0 gauge wire for my battery install from good ole Ebay!

 

Looks good to me! So much better!

 

 

This is where I decided to mount the battery (For now). I drilled two holes through the floor right theer and used a stock subaru forester battery mount I had lying around from a previous car I owned. It worked well so I didn't complain!

 

 

I then got the tank hoses installed (Temporarily out fo place as I don't have the correct year's evap tank. My original one was the white plastic model, this one I think came in later generations like the 280z? Not positive on exact fit, but I do know it doesn't fit mine ha. It still has the same holes so I just laid it on it's side to help with fume control!

 

 

Here the gas tank is in place!

 

Hatch strut reinstalled. Notice I already have my roadside assistance kit in there, just planning on it breaking down ha.

 

The license plate lights put back in.

 

 

I ran the wires to my starter from the battery here, and I just grounded straight to the car using an old seatbelt mount for the time being.

 

 

The wiring is a mess at this point, it looks so much better later!

 

 

Installed the side windows. This thing is looking dang sexy now!

 

 

You may have heard of 80Eighty throughout the years, I did a TON of filming for them in the earlier years and picked this up from one of their Subaru BRZ giveaways. It of course isn't meant for my car but I figure if the boot fits! Downforce baby!

 

 

 

The new neck filler hose before install.

 

 

E brake installed.

 

 

 

 

 

At this point, I'm feeling pretty confident that I can get this bad boy running! So I call over a few buds to help me bust out the wiring job. Of course, none of us knew crap about wiring ha. Connor and Dillon, my boys! My wife can be thanked for the documentation!

 

 

Seeing it out in the sun for the first time really after painting it really got me stoked. It looks so good! Lots of polishing to fix the orange peel ahead of me, but I am happy with where I'm at for usre.

 

We never did get it running that day, the wiring was so damaged and gunked up, we did what I still think would work and it just wouldn't crank over. What a buzzkill!

 

 

 

 

 

Now, in one of my last posts I mentioned I'd be buying a house and remodeling it. Long story short, we bought the house and remodeled 2600 square feet in about a year and a half on our own. We tore out everything but the kitchen cabinets. Replaced all the flooring, doors, bathrooms, etc. tore down walls, built entire rooms, electrocuted myself a few times, the works! It was awesome to build it up, but it definitely took me away from the Z! It also took me out of the habit of keeping up on my thread, but now I feel like things have calmed down with everything so I'm jumping back into it! (I say calmed down, but truth be told, now it's 2020, I'm working more than ever and we have welcomed our first baby into the world, a little boy. He is beautiful! It really changes perspective!). I just today nailed down a gig that will give me  around $800 extra a month so I'm hoping that I can start buying more parts that I need. Now, with that said, I'll get you caught up ASAP because where it was in the last photo is not where it is today at all, and I need to share all that first ha.

 

This is after a long day working on the house, I borrowed my brother in law's trailer and my wife and I had to run and push the Z down the road as fast as we could to get it up the ramps in our sketchy neighborhood at 1 in the morning. After that, I brought it to it's new home! Circa March 2017 I believe. More coming soon!

 

Edited February 15, 2020 by Jboogsthethug

[Jboogsthethug]

First up, a few more beauty shots of the ole gal in her new territory!

 

I don't really think of my 4Runner as being large at all, but it looks massive compared to the Z!

 

 

 

 

So after my fun with the wiring, I realized most of my harness was pretty toast. I'm pretty sure I mentioned at the beginning of all this that a few days after buying the Z a fire started in the cab because of the faulty wiring? Anyway, I realized so much of the wire had melted, leaving exposed wires everywhere. More oft3en than not, my multiple wires has become fused together. Not safe. My solution? Trash it all and start scratch with an EZ Wiring harness. Thicker wires, simplified wiring system, and I could tuck it as I went. I would also get rid of the stock coil/dizzy setup and upgrade! Here is the stock coil wiring for reference:

 

 

So, as I mentioned in my last post, I have like no experience with wiring. I laid it out and was pretty overwhelmed for a few weeks. My wife says "You can't eat the whole elephant all at once." or something like that, and that seemed pretty fitting. So with that spirit, I broke the process down. First, remove any wiring to parts I wouldn't need and didn't see myself adding later. I can't even remember what I removed, but as a guess: windshield wipers, radio, A/C, etc. Just pull the wires from the fuse box backing. 

 

I then began separating wires and grouping them together based off of what I had labeled on the stock wire harnesses. Basically anything on the back end of the car I grouped together. Anything inside, anything in the front, etc.

 

 

 

Tore out the dash once more, I became very overwhelmed here due to the way they all tied together on the original harness. I pretty much just took any wires from the new harness that would end up here and tied them together, Then I left it like that ha.

 

 

After I separated things ut, I decided my best position for my fuse box would be on the side of the driver's side foot area. I then took each grouped section, threw some wire loom over it, and threaded things where I wanted them. The harness going to the engine bay I passed through the air vent things that go through the frame. I used a hanger wire to push through then grabbed it where it came out in the engine bay and pulled the rest through. just taped the end of the wired to the wire loom and bam!

 

 

Here it is coming into the engine bay, very sleek!

 

 

Anytime I needed a branch out I just did this and added wire loom to the branch off, then taped the branch.

 

 

 

The wiring to the rear I ran along the driver's side seat floor area, underneath the seat mounts and clamped them with the wire clmaps that were already there. Then I passed them into the last big factory hole and pulled them with that same wire through the body, over the wheel well and popping back behind the B pillar into the rear area.

 

 

The mounted fuse box.

 

 

 

 

I ended the day feeling very accomplished!

 

 

 

Sometimes I get cute notes from the wife written in the depressing layer of dust my Z accumulates.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On to the Distributor cap! I bought a fireball coil and ignitor dizzy cap thing and was worried it would be more difficult than it was. It was actually super straightforward, took like 15 minutes (except I dropped a screw and had to replace that, annoying.). Probably the best mod I did for my L24 ever, that along with the new coil pack. It started up instantly every time once I got it running.

 

 

 

My attempts to figure out how to wire the dash  clusters up ha,.

 

 

 

Then, as stated a few posts ago, I wanted to get my push button start wired up! 

 

 

my wiring to the starter and alternator. I had them together in a loom coming throuhg a hole in the transmission tunnel, then around the back side of the motor underneath the coolant hoses. It looked sleek and I ziptied them there, very clean install without the worry of them being melted. Even the wiring to the starter/alternator was only visible right where it connected eventually.

 

 

 

 

I had to figure out how to cleanly wire up the distributor. I figured the best way would be to come through the air vent frame hole, branch off and loom up next to the coil pack/dizzy connector wiring. I also used the  extra holes on my radiator and mounted the coil pack on that. It all worked out splendidly.

 

 

I think I have finished photos of this all when it was buttoned up and I was super stoked with it. I also installed a 140 Amp (I believe) Nissan Altima alternator while I was at it. I figured it could only help and was cheaper than a new stock alternator. I didn't feel like dealing with electrical gremlins so I was just swapping it all!

 

 

More coming soon!

[Jboogsthethug]

As a followup to the last post, here are a few pics of the finished install of the ignitor and the fireball, as well as the wiring to the alternator. You can see how the ignitor just swaps out the traditional points setup. Way more reliable in my opinion.

 

 

 

Here is a nice reference picture to show what wires went where. If I remember correctly, black was ground to the dizzy, red was the positive to the dizzy, purple was ground to the harness and pink was the positive to the harness. This setup worked well!

 

 

 

 

 

Ok, so part of the alternator upgrade I need to rewire a few things for the alternator to actually charge the battery. The original alternator has less prongs or something, no screw on the back maybe? This one you needed to connect the positive from the plug to the screw before taking it back to the battery. It looks like I connected the ground to that plug as well? I can't remembere it all but I researched and tested this a bunch to finally get the right combination where it would charge and I'm pretty sure this was it. This was the most complicated part of the alt swap, so if you get a chance you should do it too!

 

 

Just a close up to show which wires go where. The back of the alternator is the top of this image.

 

 

 

 

At this time, it was Christmas time in 2017! I pulled this out and I could not for the life of me figure out what it meant. The bread was throwing me off. I can't even remember what the bread had to do with it looking back ha. Anyway, it was $400 to buy the metal for a roll cage! I already worked things out where I built a website for a fabricator in exchange for the roll cage. I was stoked! I didn't get around to it for a few years, more on that soon ha.

 

 

 

At this point, I needed to figure out the dang seat mounts. with the stock mounts in place and my cushion in the seat (Corbeau FX1 Pro), my head was touching the roof. That just wouldn't fly! So I knew that I at least needed to get rid of those. Not too worried about structural integrity ( a common worry that hasn;t been proven either way as far as I've been able to find) as I will be doing a whole lot more to strengthen the chassis up.

 

 

 

V1 of my new mounts included som 1"x 2" bars from a local metal yard welded in place of the original mounts. Here I am jsut making sure they are level before tacking them down.

Unfortunately, after testing these out I realized I'm still too tall, especially when a roll bar is in the mix! So, I eventually cut them out again. I will probably do some sort of mount that is welded directly to the floor and then the bolts go out through the bottom! That will work well and be the most simple approach I believe. That will be coming soon!

 

 

Now, this is where things get interesting! I finally got my wiring done up and wanted to see if it would now start! I actually had wired up the push button by this point, I'll go over that in my next post. Once I sorted that out, getting it started went pretty smoothly! I had previously tuned my carbs up before taking the engine out, so I wasn't too worried about that and was more concerned with just getting fuel. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't priming. After a quick trip to the parts store, and a few bolts I had installed a new fuel pump (not sure where the pictures are) and it was priming great! Tested the started, things were going smoothly there. hooked up the throttle, exhaust, misc parts, then I decided to give it some juice and see how it went! She started up beautifully! First time in 3 years that it had ran, and it sounded awesome! I was stoked obviously.

IMG_9909.TRIM.MOV

 

 

 

 

I then grabbed a spare seat and threw it in the passenger side for my wife and I got in mine (Neither were bolted down) and we went for a test run around the block! the engine was great, and the E brake also worked well as I still hadn't hooked up the brake lines ha. However, I quickly realized I had a problem with my transmission that I never once noticed when I first bought it. I couldn't shift into 1st or 3rd, and I knew that wasn't a good sign. A few days later I had time to take it all back out and take apart the tranny. a few of the gears were broken badly, huge chunks missing. A super bummer as I was told when purchasing that it had been gone through before and the tranny in particular was in great shape. This left me deciding what to do. I did always imagine swapping the engine eventually but didn't have crazy money to spend. I opted to try and find a 280zx 5 speed and swap that in, as that would give me even better control over my gearing than my current 4 speed and would be much cheaper. Problem was, it was apparently dry season and after waiting a few months I still hadn't found anything. I gave up on that plan when I was talking to some friend who just had bought a 280sx and didn't want the powerplant that had been swapped into it. They were letting it go for  a pretty good price to me, so I jumped on it! I'll get to what my new engine is pretty soon. Regardless, just another day in the life of a budget garage build ha.

 

 

 

 

My grandma used to race powder puff back in the day, so I of course had to show her and my little brother the progress! This is actually when I was putting the new powerplant in and was showing them how good it looked!

 

 

 

She's come so far and yet has so far to go!

 

 

Extra goodie:

I also threw a bushing into the shifter handle at some point to tighten up the shift feel. It was like 3 bucks from the parts store and popped in pretty easily, instant improvement over the plastic bushing. This is covered pretty well in this thread: 

 

 

 

Until next time!

[Zetsaz]

Nice to see all the progress! Pretty exciting that you have it on the road. If things go well, I might just take mine to Utah this summer, and even if I don't we'll have to meet up for a quick ride!

[Ben280]

"Bread dough for the roll cage" love it!

 

Nice updates, excited to see more, since I *think* the build thread is still behind real life?

[JMortensen]

Cutting those stupid seat brackets out is the friggin worst. I'd rather do 10 spindle pins. BTW, I use 1x1 for the mounts.  

[Jboogsthethug]

20 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

Nice to see all the progress! Pretty exciting that you have it on the road. If things go well, I might just take mine to Utah this summer, and even if I don't we'll have to meet up for a quick ride!

 

Yeah I'll cross my fingers for that! Technically it is again back off the road, but I'm hopeful to have it back on again soon! I don't think I really need to spend any more money on it other than a few things here and there to have it driving at least! We shall see ha.

 

19 hours ago, Ben280 said:

"Bread dough for the roll cage" love it!

 

Nice updates, excited to see more, since I *think* the build thread is still behind real life?

 

I actually just asked her what that was about and she explained it was because it's a "roll" cage haha, bread roll. That one went over my head ha. It is behind still, I'll continue to update but there's some cool things in the works!

 

18 hours ago, JMortensen said:

Cutting those stupid seat brackets out is the friggin worst. I'd rather do 10 spindle pins. BTW, I use 1x1 for the mounts.  

 

Amen to that, it really was terrible. Did you mount the bolts straight through and have them sticking out the bottom?

[JMortensen]

No, I cut holes in the tubes, welded nuts to plates, and welded them to the tubes, so that the bolts screw straight into the tubing.

[JMortensen]

LOL. Looking at my pic, I remembered that I used 2x2 on the pass side. 1x1 on driver's side. Pass side seat is 20 degree layback, driver's is 10 degree. Sorry for misinfo.

[Zetsaz]

If you're looking for other mount ideas you can check my thread too. The recent few pages have how I mocked up 1x1 tubing. I'm sure there are sturdier ways to get the right fit, but I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. 

[Jboogsthethug]

1 hour ago, JMortensen said:

LOL. Looking at my pic, I remembered that I used 2x2 on the pass side. 1x1 on driver's side. Pass side seat is 20 degree layback, driver's is 10 degree. Sorry for misinfo.

 

Dang welding the nuts in is a great idea! I've thought of welding some bolts in (the opposite of your idea) but your idea would probaly even work better! Was that a pain to get it lined up? I still haven't quite figured out the logistics. I will probably do 1x1 to keep it low!

 

19 minutes ago, Zetsaz said:

If you're looking for other mount ideas you can check my thread too. The recent few pages have how I mocked up 1x1 tubing. I'm sure there are sturdier ways to get the right fit, but I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. 

 

I actually was checking that out! The only problem is I would for sure be hitting my head with my helmet on during events! Even with my seat sitting on the mounts just flat on the floorpan I am close to the ceiling. I wouldn't even consider myself super tall ha.

[Jboogsthethug]

In my last update I talked about getting a new fuel pump, I forgot I also swapped out the starter. But not before trying to fix it!  haha I took it apart and realized it was pretty well rusted out on the inside, but after cleaning it up it didn't look too bad. Unfortunately, I realized the little prong things that connect to the motor that basically convert the power from the battery to spin it were so old and worn the wires had been rubbed through. It was only an hour or so of wasted work so I wasn't too sad. I figured for some people wanting to restore it this pics may be helpful! After realizing it was trashed, I didn't want to go through the work of wiring new contacts in so I said screw it and picked up one new from the auto parts store!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another thing I did before starting it is wire this in. As promised, I wanted to revisit what I found out (as much as I can remember anyway). The idea was that I'd flip the main red switch and the first blue switch and that would give me the power to the button and also act as like a theft deterrent step. Simple, but later I wanted to expound on a series of switches that had to be switched in a certain sequence for it to work. Just an idea!

 

 

I initially followed the instructions that came with the kit and when I'd try to start it I would get power to the first switch and the push start, and they would light up. This was all like the opposite of what I wanted.

 

 

 

So, back to the drawing board! Eventually I got that all figured out (I forgot, it is all covered in this thread so no need to re write it! 

 

 

Yeah boi!!

 

 

 

Anyway, went through all that just to find out the tranny was jacked and after the struggles I already covered in the last update (and this thread:

 

 

Here are some pics they sent me of it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, out with the old.... Sold to a fellow Utah Z owner.

 

 

 

 

 

And in with the new!

 

 

 

 

That ranger was in it's most precious form that day! Big thanks to my awesome wife for letting me buy the new engine!

 

 

 

 

Here she is going into the engine bay! I don't think this is what my insurance agent would call "blanket coverage" but ti worked well to protect the paint. Ha, dumb dad joke.

 

 

I decided to build my own brackets so I wanted it as far back as I could get, but leaving a little wiggle room in case of shifting during driving or flex or whatever. This looked good to me! 

 

 

Here are a few threads I started when I was leveling it out and figuring that all out:

 

RB25 engine resting angle. : 

 

 

Working through how people have built their mounts: 

 

 

 

It's to the side here, but I was able to center it pretty well when I built the mounts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also picked up a new exhaust for the L24 before I sold it, much bigger and better than the stock exhaust. I kept that and will connect it to my RB!

 

 

 

 

Here are some pictures of building the mounts! I cut the 240sx mounts up and reused the same pieces. I plan on reinforcing this some more later for sure though.

 

 

Resting in place.

 

 

Got the shifter centered up nicely! Ghetto solutions over here (Using a block of wood to strap the transmission into place) but it worked!

 

 

 

 

This hose was right in the way, so I loosened it up and just rotated it down. I'll put a different hose in later and route around it.

 

 

Sufficient clearance right here!

 

 

 

Then, using a string I took measurements for the brackets. I just held it corner to corner at the length, then measured afterwards. Corner to corner, measure, repeat.

 

 

 

What I ended up with:

 

 

 

My beautiful welds haha. I'm going to clean those bad boys up too.

 

And she's in! 

 

 

 

 

More to come later!

[JMortensen]

2 hours ago, Jboogsthethug said:

 

Dang welding the nuts in is a great idea! I've thought of welding some bolts in (the opposite of your idea) but your idea would probaly even work better! Was that a pain to get it lined up? I still haven't quite figured out the logistics. I will probably do 1x1 to keep it low!

I cheated. Bolted one mount to the plates, tacked them in. Then bolted the rest of the seat in, tacked in the other side.

[Jboogsthethug]

So after transplanting the new heart into the Z, I realized I didn't plan on using the stock hood/latch and would want to have something lighter eventually, as well as it kept bumping the RB during the install. I cut that crap right out of there! As more times goes on, I regret painting my car earlier as I keep scratching it and giving myself more spots that are unpainted ha. Lesson learned, too late now! I'll fix it eventually after I get to a place of contentment.

 

 

 

 

Also, I never mentioned this but I picked up these eagle alloy wheels for like $400 or something? I'll need new tires eventually but it made my Z look sick! Look are important

 

 

I also bought these off a member on HybridZ who was selling all their parts stash. I figured they'd come in handy when I was ready to upgrade suspension!

 

 

 

 

I also got around to cleaning up my garage a bit. Picked up a mini stack tool chest for like $60, great deal! That is the last part of my house remodel and I have big plans, but for now this will do!

 

 

One thing I realized is my brake MC decided to stop working while it sat. I took it apart  to try and clean it out but I couldn't get it working again. So then I bought a kit to rebuild it, but it turned out I had the wrong MC for the job. Only some of the MCs are rebuildable, I had the wrong one ha.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, sent the kit back and looked at my other options! To buy a new stock MC it was just as expensive as buying 3 used aftermarket cylinders from Tilton/Wilwood. I always wanted to eventually do a dual brake MC setup, so I figured what better time than now?? I picked all three up for like $140 on ebay. They came in this evidence bag, which I thought was pretty funny ha. I decided on a 1" for the front and 3/4" on the rear. I may regret the size but if I do I'll pick up a 1/2" and swap them around. There was also a 1" clutch MC that I figured I'd swap in sometime later, all remote reservoirs! My plan is to mount those inside the cowl to save space!

 

 

 

 

Anyway, I got to work! I read up a bunch and this thread helped a ton with info, especially when it comes to figuring out the pedal ratio: 

 

The only problem is the freaking pictures from photobucket no longer appear. Screw you PB, ruining all my favorite threads! So here are my pictures of the process, pretty similr to what they talked about! I'll also try to be detailed to help give some info to anyone looking this up in the future. I bought the Tilton 600 series balance bar assembly https://tiltonracing.com/product/600-series-balance-bar-assembly/

 

 

First things first, I needed to measure and come up with the correct stroke and figure out how much room I had to play with to drill the bore hole. By my professional chalk on cement measurements show, my brake pedal was 5.25" from the pivot point. I have 5.75" of pedal travel at the outer diameter before hitting the firewall. My original MC Plunger point gave me 3.25" of stroke. In order to get the correct leverage I needed to move the plunger attach point up about .5". That would make it easier to compress without the brake booster. (The measurements were pretty much on point to the thread above.)

 

 

My initial drill point, I think I moved it very slightly.

 

 

 

Once I got it dialed in, I used that point with my hole bore and got to drilling!

 

 

 

 

 

I had a slight gap due to the slightly bigger bore diameter (I couldn't find the exact size). No worries, close enough!

 

 

 

 

I then got to welding! I measured the center point and basically just did my best to hold it exactly parallel. After tacking, I double checked center and made sure it was exactly perpendicular to the pedal, then welded it in!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have little bursts of good welds ha, I wish I was better at welding. Slowly getting better but plenty of room to grow!

 

 

 

 

 

Well son of a gun, I realized I warped the bore ever so slightly! I Could no longer get the bearing to fit through. Calling around to machine shops provided me with some expensive options that I could not afford. Hundreds of dollars for this little hole ha. So I thought about it, took my drill, fit the biggest bit I could into the hole and put sticky, 2000 grit sandpaper on it and just drilled it. As it would loosen up, I'd add another strip of sandpaper. I did this for about 10-15 minutes and voila! Perfect once again! I was pleasantly surprised at this one ha.

 

 

 

 

Slid easily through now, no catching at all!

 

 

 

 

At the same time, I worked on the framing a bit. First, I just used the hole and marked around it to make a template. Cut it out with an angle grinder and then welded it in!

 

 

 

 

I also added some bracing to the side to help with flexing, these welds I was pretty happy about!

 

 

 

 

All smoothed out!

 

 

 

 

 

I then made marks on each end of the pedal box so then I could use that to create a center point for the holes I then needed to drill for the MC mounts. I transcribed from that point.

 

 

 

 

 

Then I created a center point of tape and made marks with the brake pedal completely open and completely compressed to find the centerline for where the plunger needed to be.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then, after making those lines, I measured the 1.25" both ways for the center points and test fit it with the balance bar.

 

 

 

 

 

Lines up well!

 

 

 

 

Pilot holes drilled.

 

 

 

 

Then the bigger holes and other holes were drilled out.

 

 

 

 

 

Then I put the bolts through, welded on the back end so they won't turn and spray painted with some primer and black gloss!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Installing into the brake assembly.

 

 

 

 

 

I also made a plate on the other side to basically sandwich the firewall and give more strength. I painted that as well. Here they are installed!! I also bent the brake lines later on whcih you can see here, I'll create a post to document that later! Until next time!

 

 

[Jboogsthethug]

On 2/18/2020 at 4:42 PM, JMortensen said:

I cheated. Bolted one mount to the plates, tacked them in. Then bolted the rest of the seat in, tacked in the other side.

Ah smart! I will have to do something similar, I like that idea a lot!

[Jboogsthethug]

Back at it for another update!!

 

So, after deciding to do the dual MC, I knew I'd need to swap up my brake lines a bit to work out. I also knew I needed to upgrade my fuel system as my current lines would for sure not deliver the fuel to the RB as needed. I started researching a few different options and found this thread:

 

On the first page he goes into detail on what he decided to do to setup his fuel system. It seemed legit to me so I pretty much copied it! He also details out the connections really well so I won't go into that. I looked around and found a new Bosch 044 and Carter for cheap! Ebay baby! I also picked up this surge tank. The idea is the first pump (The carter) continuously pulls from the main tank, through a filter and into the surge. From there, you have 3 more ports. One goes from the bottom of this tank to the Bosch, which pumps to the engine. Then, there is a return from the engine. Then, a last outlet that send the overflow back into the main tank to start the cycle all over again.

 

This setup will allow me to constantly feed my engine and never run out, whereas just running from the main tank may result in dry spells during hard turning. This is hopefully going to prevent that from ever happening. Fix it before it's a problem!

 

 

 

 

 

I also picked up an intercooler, a flaring tool, IC piping, braided fuel line, clamps, and a whole lot of  -6 AN fittings!

 

 

I started running the new hardline (3/8") through. Pretty straightforward! I could've followed the body better here but I wasn't too worried about it taking over that corner so I just ran with it.

 

 

 

 

 

Here you can see I put the wrong ends on like a dummy ha. So I had to cut these off to put the AN fittings on.

 

 

I used the stock tabs as mounting points and just put the two clamps back to back to hold them in place. Very effective in my opinion! Then I didn't have to drill two new mounting points.

 

 

 

 

Now here's the unfortunate side effect of cheap tools. After 4 or so flares, the threads on the tool stopped holding the tubing in place. So after I cut off the wrong fittings underneath the car I have yet to be able to flare the ends again. I sent that tool back as defective for not working more than 4 times, and now I will probably invest in a better tool.

 

 

 

 

 

So, that is the last step on the lines themselves that still needs to happen. This is the  mostly finished outcome of the fuel system, you can see I used a hole drill to cut some perfect holes and used rubber grommets to line them and prevent the lines from getting cut. Temporary until I get a new fuel tank installed and cut out the spare wheel well!

 

 

 

 

 

 

On a side note, my buddy picked up this sweet fox body! It needs some work but it's the first FB i've liked ha. I'm digging the body kit!

 

 

 

 

 

In my next post, I'll go over the custom oil pan for the RB25! It is sick!

 

 

 

 

[Exposed]

the fuel system looks good! I was planning on running something similar, I have two bosch 044 pumps but I had been planning on putting the surge tank beside the oem tank. Do you think fumes will be a problem?

[Jboogsthethug]

@Exposed Thanks man! That is a good point I forgot to mention. I am going to delete the vent tank, block off the lines going to that on the main tank except the biggest vent line. That one I will run directly to the hole in the filler neck. I'm hoping that using that and a vented cap will allow it to escape without fuming me out! If that doesn't work, I'll throw one of these underneath!

 

 

 

[Jboogsthethug]

So I needed a custom oil pan for the RB25. The problem with the stock RB oil pan is the Z cross member is right in the way due to it being a front sump pan. You instead need a rear sump pan. I had a few options. Mckinney motorsports pan, CX racing pan, or have someone build one. I Also debated on doing it myself but I've been looking for an excuse to hire my cousin to fab me up something because he is so dang good. I gave him a call and he agreed to look it over! After taking the pan over, explaining my vision, etc. He was excited for the challenge! He initally was going to recreate the flange but then decided to just cut off the old one.

 

 

 

I told him I wanted it to be a little deeper than normal so it would hold even more oil. I figured might as well! Here are the sides he cut out. Notice the edge on the left is not as wide. That is due to the natural angle of the engine, the oil pan has to compensate in order to have a flat bottom.

 

 

 

Here it is tacked up a bit!

 

 

The welds for the main pan all done up!

 

 

 

 

He forgot to measure the width beforehand to make sure it would still mount up. I had the engine so we measure from the center of each bolt row and made sure it lined up!

 

 

 

 

Then he started putting the pan together!

 

 

 

 

 

The outer welds all smoothed out!

 

 

 

 

 

Old vs New! Keep in mind it is reversed as the new pan is rear sump vs the stock front sump. You can see there is a little bit of additional capacity.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are a few photos showing how we took the original windage tray and flipped it both ways in order to keep the location of the oil feed in roughly the same location. It regquired a little bit of cutting to open the hole up a bit. Then he bent each of the flanges to be inside out to catch the oil efficiently off the camshaft.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All finished! It was a pretty dang good first attempt! Bolts up perfectly, and it is as solid as a tank! Seriously, I could use this thing as a skid plate ha. It is not helping the weight loss aspect but is perfect for now!

 

 

[1969honda]

That's a good looking pan, I would advise having him also add in some baffling sound the oil pump pickup.  It shouldn't be to hard to weld on a couple trap doors in a diamond shape for added insurance when going sideways or cornering. Improved Racing makes some nice affordable trap doors, I'm sure there are a few threads on the Hybrid with other vendors and baffling ideas as well.

 

http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pan-baffles/trap-doors-for-oil-pans-and-fuel-cells-pack-p-38.html

 

 

Edited March 1, 2020 by 1969honda