Exposed Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 thanks for confirming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 I typically only have time to work on the car after work on weekends so progress is extremely slow. I managed to weld in some -10an bungs onto the valve covers, modified the catch can and switched out the stock oil level sender for an aem oil pressure sensor. For anyone looking to do that the thread is 1/8" bspt, and the aem sensor comes as a 1/8" npt. A part number for an adapter is "EAR-968698ERL" and thats off of summit racing. Managed to finish my headlights, extremely happy with how they came out, I'll be able to see at night! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 I figured this was the weekend I'd start up the Z but had a bit of a hiccup when filling my fluids. The issue right now is the water neck outlet is leaking where it mates to the waterpump? When I took the water neck outlet off of the engine there wasn't any gaskets so I didn't add any when I put it back together the first time. I filled it up with rad fluid and saw nothing dripping, so I bolted the manifold back up. I went for a quick bite to eat and when I got back I noticed there was a slow drip so I drained the system and unbolted everything, I took the water neck outlet off and put some gasket marker on it thinking it would fix the issue. It cured overnight and I filled everything back up once again...no leaks. I then bolted the manifold on and noticed another slow leak after about a half hour. Having almost no patience left I jacked the car up and the only thing I'm seeing that might be an issue is the manifold touching a bolt. Does anything think when the manifold is tightened its pushing against the bolt causing the water neck outlet to not sit flush with the mating surface? Not sure if this might cause an issue but I also switched the stock thermostat for a mishimoto thermostat. The mishimoto thermostat seems to sit low inside of the aluminum housing, will post a rough sketch to better explain myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 In the 2jz, which looks different, the thermostat sits proud of the housing and seals against the block. If the thermostat sits low in the housing like you say and doesn't seal, and you are trying to seal using gasket maker (which if water is actively interacting with that layer makes me concerned that it will bypass the thermostat), tightening the manifold on that bolt could shift and tear the gasket maker. Short of a wrong part number I'm not sure how that might occur. Do you have a toyota gasket/o-ring thing that comes on the stock thermostat you can swap onto the mishimotor thermostat? As annoying as it may be, the only real way to know would be to take it all off again and carefully pull the thermostat housing and see if it has a tear. Once again granted that shouldn't necessarily be the sealing surface in the first place. I will say that I had two holes in my block I completely neglected when I filled up my coolant for the first time. Might be worth making sure it isn't dripping from higher? I know this is the exhaust side, but maybe. Alternatively hairline fractures in aluminum are really hard to tell given the casting, might only be opening when you tighten down the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Thanks, thats good to know, I'll need to verify the part number for the thermostat I used. Hopefully that's what the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Might be worth swapping the stud to a low profile allen bolt to give a bit of clearance. I had to swap one on my housing as well as it interfered with the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Ya was thinking of swapping out the bolt, measured it out and its an M8 x 1.25. Assuming it has a bit of lock tight on it. heres a rough idea of the height differences in the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Goodness that is quite a difference. If I remember it should just come off and be fairly easily swappable. That might be the solution to the water leaking aspect from a seal perspective. Now if the manifold tightening down pushes the housing or something we would need a short bolt to solve that one aspect. I have to say your drawings are on point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Thanks! I do abit of CAD sketchs for a couple firms occasionally so I get a bit of practice. Noticed I forgot to toss up a picture of the catch can mod a couple posts ago. Doesn't look to great but does the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geno750 Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Nice progress! Given how minor that interference is, you can tap the turbo manifold runner in that spot to get the 1-2mm of clearance, or grind the stud down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 I'd still like to see a bigger vacuum port, but that might just be nit picky. I know at work we have small lines pulling large volumes of vacuum. My recent mishap with AN fittings makes me a bit nervous with the boost solenoid, but that is probably a knee jerk reaction on my part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 what happened with your boost solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 I ended up switching the gasket on the mishimoto thermostat and its fixed my leaking issue for the time being. For anyone thinking of using a mishimoto thermostat check your gasket height. I bought a different gasket from the local parts source, its a "Fel-Pro" gasket and the part number is "16325-62010". Mishimoto thermostat with Mishimoto gasket Mishimoto thermostat with Fel-Pro gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 Started it up today! cant wait for the snow to disappear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelsonian Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Looking forward to see some videos of it ripping down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zetsaz Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 (edited) That is awesome! JZ engines have always been favorites of mine. 1jz sounds like it would be a riot. Would love to get one, but I'm too invested into just making a properly functioning and half decent looking car at the moment so I'll have to settle with living vicariously through build threads like this one haha. Edited February 26, 2018 by Zetsaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Goodness that is really sunken in. Looks far more correct now. I think I killed my boost control solenoid either that or it is sticking really badly. When it works it controls boost as far as I can tell, but when it doesn't it overboosts till the boost cut which I am thankful I have. My mishap with AN lines is in regards to them coming loose on my turbo oil feed on both ends, despite following the recommended tightening. If it was a boost reference line that comes loose to a boost solenoid, then boost solenoid doesn't supply good control to the waste gate, best case scenario you hit boost cut, worst case scenario you boost until something pops, if your lucky a coupler if you are unlucky a piston. Regardless, I am stupid excited for you. Please don't neglect the basics! You seem way more methodical, and legitimate, but rushing and forgetting to hookup an oil pressure gauge or something like that is a really bad day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 fingers crossed I don't get a bad solenoid or I havent hooked it up incorrectly. I have my wide band, and oil pressure gauges hooked up just need to tidy up the set up and mount them properly. I was thinking of redoing my electrical panel and building a cover just to tidy everything up and make it look better. Anyone ever use or see someone use MDF for this? Bouncing back and forth between aluminum and mdf at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 MDF seems to separate on me around the edges. I know some people will seal or tape them for longevity. Plastic can be a nice alternative if you have a local composite supply store, usually they have off cuts that are really affordable. My center panel is a sheet of steel, nice because if you have to you could ground the whole panel if you wanted to simplify some wiring and bolt directly to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geno750 Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 On 2/26/2018 at 12:28 AM, seattlejester said: Goodness that is really sunken in. Looks far more correct now. I think I killed my boost control solenoid either that or it is sticking really badly. When it works it controls boost as far as I can tell, but when it doesn't it overboosts till the boost cut which I am thankful I have. My mishap with AN lines is in regards to them coming loose on my turbo oil feed on both ends, despite following the recommended tightening. If it was a boost reference line that comes loose to a boost solenoid, then boost solenoid doesn't supply good control to the waste gate, best case scenario you hit boost cut, worst case scenario you boost until something pops, if your lucky a coupler if you are unlucky a piston. Regardless, I am stupid excited for you. Please don't neglect the basics! You seem way more methodical, and legitimate, but rushing and forgetting to hookup an oil pressure gauge or something like that is a really bad day. Did you have a steel fitting in the turbo with an aluminum hose end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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