1j-vvti/Ar-5 Build

[joa_taste]

UPDATE****

 

So I finished the dashboard, it still has a few blemishes that aren't so noticeable..

So I stickers over them so they weren't eyesores to me lol. Kinda cheese, I know, but it worked.

This took a bit longer than I intended, but all in all it looks a lot better than it did. Im pretty happy with the way it came out. 

Sorry to repost pics guys, just wanted to show what the first to last pic looks like in comparison.

 

I ended up going with the speedhut gauges that a few members have gone with. 4 1/2"

For my center console gauges, I went with Attometer Oil, Fuel, Water. I think its 2 5/8"

Came out pretty nice.

 

 

 

Last post i did was the bride seat. Which came with a harness, so I ended up going with a Techno Toys Tuning racing harness bar. Nice in quality, T3 always has good stuff, and very easy to install. 

You just take out the OEM bolts that the original seat belts were connected to, and screw in the T3 bolts.

 

 

So I dropped my car off to my buddies shop for wiring, a few days ago. I've finally been able to post here, sorry for the delay. 

Last thing I did was worked on the whole " Not being able to shut my hood fully" issue. 

I just bought some hood pins and did a quick fix. With that being said, I should've done the same thing Seattlejester did  with the flipping his CXracing mounts backwards. Putting the motor lower than mine is by a few inches.   

 

 

Anyways, I hope the next post I put here will be a running motor. After I get the car back there are a few things i need to wire. Like the gauges, and finish the exhaust system.

 

That's it for now, hope to post in a few weeks. 

Edited March 16, 2017 by joa_taste

[Exposed]

Great job on the dash. Any chance you can snap a couple more pictures of the T3 Harness bar?

[joa_taste]

Thanks bro, it took a lot longer than I had thought it would.

I would snap pics of the T3 harness but the car is at my wiring buddies shop. I'll snap some when I get the car back.

 

Here's the link for the harness on T3. They have some pretty legit pics on there.

Probably the easiest upgrade I've done to the car lol.

 

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/240z-260z-and-280z-racing-harness-bar

[joa_taste]

Small update.

 

I haven't forgot about you guys, I've been waiting for awhile to get my car wired at the shop.

They've been giving me the run around for two months about waiting on this, or that with no progress whatsoever. Kinda dumb since I have history with taken multiple cars there, and I feel it's not too hard or time consuming if you know what you're doing. With that said I know people are busy and I was happy to pick my car up.

 

 

Anyways I found a more reputable shop known for Jz swaps in multiple different chassis down at the speedway. Upon dropping it off they were already trying to show me basic upgrades their other cars have done, and recommended a few things I should do with my set-up.

So hopefully I'll be posting something soon when it comes to pics and info.

 

I'm upset I've wasted 2 months of waiting, but glad I intervened before 2 months turned into something like 5 months.

[Nelsonian]

I'm interested in hearing the upgrades that the new shop mentioned to you.

[seattlejester]

^Same always nice to know what professionals recommend.

[joa_taste]

I'm interested in hearing the upgrades that the new shop mentioned to you.

 

 

^Same always nice to know what professionals recommend.

 

 

Off the top of my head.

 

He said ditch the big plenum on the exhaust side over the turbo, it'll free up some horses and its like a second muffler.

Which ill need to do new IC piping on the hot side. Since I'm going with this we will be going with aluminum 3", over the stainless steel 2.25. With that said ill just do the whole system 3" aluminum piping.

 

Re-route the driver side water hose to the passenger side. He said usually people just plug this up and wonder why their cars run so hot. Its the hose the routes coolant to the head.

 

He is switching the BOV to the exhaust side as well said it's better on this side. 

 

He recommended upgrading the coil system to an Audi system. I.E it won't be 3 coils and 3 wires it'll all be "individual wires"

He showed me a Nissan s14 he had integrated the wiring for that system, and it was stout. It was like a twist cable connecter that the customer can switch out for the stock one if he wanted. He said something about the Jzx100 1j's ignition being crap.

 

He also said he's not going to use the jzx100 base file from the AEM?? He is saying to use a different file for this motor. 

He's making a list of what he's going to do, I will post when I have this.

Edited May 18, 2017 by joa_taste

[seattlejester]

Interesting, well according to some math the 2.25 would really not have been suitable for anything much above stock levels. I believe the term aerodynamic drag starts coming into play with 400-450hp in 2.5 inch tubing.

 

What does the water hose feed? The throttle body? Or does it make its way back and into the heater matrix?

 

I guess the BOV thing is a matter of preference. Some would say if the turbo is slow to build having the BOV on the exhaust side would allow the more of the charge pipe to retain boost so take less time to build up pressure, on the other hand the pressure spike is the highest right next to the throttle body when it shuts. 

 

I've heard similar things about 90's coil packs. Definitely a point of upgrade whether it is LS, 2000 era coils from a toyota, etc etc.

 

Given there are jzx 90, 100, 110, soarer, etc one file might be more advantageous to use over another in terms of slight improvement or different more efficient values.

 

Definitely please do!

[joa_taste]

Interesting, well according to some math the 2.25 would really not have been suitable for anything much above stock levels. I believe the term aerodynamic drag starts coming into play with 400-450hp in 2.5 inch tubing.

 

What does the water hose feed? The throttle body? Or does it make its way back and into the heater matrix?

 

I guess the BOV thing is a matter of preference. Some would say if the turbo is slow to build having the BOV on the exhaust side would allow the more of the charge pipe to retain boost so take less time to build up pressure, on the other hand the pressure spike is the highest right next to the throttle body when it shuts. 

 

I've heard similar things about 90's coil packs. Definitely a point of upgrade whether it is LS, 2000 era coils from a toyota, etc etc.

 

Given there are jzx 90, 100, 110, soarer, etc one file might be more advantageous to use over another in terms of slight improvement or different more efficient values.

 

Definitely please do!

 

Found old pics to explain to explain better.

 

This hose. 

 

 

Goes here

 

Yeah its something apart of the Heater Matrix like you asked earlier. He says people make the mistake of plugging both sides up, and run hot all the time.

 

When I upgrade turbo's later I will upgrade to that coil pack. 

[seattlejester]

Interesting. 

 

On the 2jz and 7m there is a barb on the back of the head, does the 1jz not have that?

 

Pretty cool to hear about, there is a lot of debate on the subject whether to loop or to block off. Some people swear it doesn't make a difference, others say the engine will blow without it. Someone found a plumbing diagram and found that on the sc300 the 2jz dead heads when the heater is off so it shouldn't make a difference, while on other cars it seems to have a bypass to loop when the heater is off and to open and pass through the heater when it is on. The premise was to always do the bypass if you could help it, but there was some counter argument about the coolant that goes via that route would be hotter then expected and would mess with the thermostat if it bypassed right away instead of passing through the heater matrix. 

 

Cool stuff, looks like you are in good hands!

[joa_taste]

Just a small update.

 

Dropped a couple sensors off to my wiring guy; AEM air intake sensor, AEM electronics MAP sensor, and exhaust. I went with an Apexi muffler.

 

I also went with a retro spec wing, I got it used so it was pretty cheap.

I almost went with a chassis mount wing, but I feel like it would've been too much.

 

Heres some pics.

 

[Zetsaz]

Nice MR2

Edited June 4, 2017 by Zetsaz

[joa_taste]

Update.

 

The Z is still at my buddies shop.

Wiring has been on and off since there are other things that had come up. More on the mechanical side of things.

But to say the least, I've got a bit of a growing list of things that;

 

 1. I didn't do

 2. I did but did incorrectly or jalf hassed lol.

 

First, he got the clutch to bleed! Me thinking that the bore size on the master cylinder wasn't big enough was incorrect. 

It was the way i mounted the slave, to the side. Made it hard as crap to bleed, especially since it had no bleeder valve. As weird as it is, it has the tubing for one but not the actually valve. So he remounted it upwards, and drilled a inlet for a bleeder valve. Pic below. With that said, he made a new tranny mount out of the stock holes, said since it was out he thought it better to make a solid mount. 

 

So i ditched the Tomei elbow(Now 4sale) and went with a future fab turbo elbow. With that said he deleted the pre-exhaust thingy over the top of the turbo/manifold. Then did a new turbo back down to my exhaust. Which I wanted the old school early 2000's look of big canister slanted up. Which I feel kinda compliments the build a bit. 

 

Also in the engine bay they redid my cooling system with a swirl pot. He said since my radiator it would be a b* to keep cool so he added the swirl pot. Being its the top of the cooling system now. He also switched my top inlet to the Rad from drivers side to passenger side, making a patch on the old inlet. And as you can see aluminum IC piping.  

Before.

 

After.

[Geno750]

Could you post more pics of the swirl pot by the upper water neck on the block?

[seattlejester]

That is really nifty. A consideration would be to monitor where the exhaust crosses over the diff. It can be quite tedious if the exhaust covers the diff or gets in the way when you are trying to pull it.

[joa_taste]

Could you post more pics of the swirl pot by the upper water neck on the block?

Yeah lemme see if I can swing by tomorrow or some time this week. They did a reservoir and I bought a billet water neck that they welded on.

 

That is really nifty. A consideration would be to monitor where the exhaust crosses over the diff. It can be quite tedious if the exhaust covers the diff or gets in the way when you are trying to pull it.

It does cross over the Differential/Driveshaft area, If i could go back i would've mounted my cx mounts like you did. Kinda kicking myself right now.

[seattlejester]

Never too late , seems like you have a really skilled friend working on it right now who can do aluminum (means he can do stainless). Might be worth addressing now before all the pipes are finalized. You will have to let me know how solid trans feels. Mines still on rubber, I'm planning on getting poly, but if solid is doable then maybe I'll just jump ahead.

[joa_taste]

Never too late , seems like you have a really skilled friend working on it right now who can do aluminum (means he can do stainless). Might be worth addressing now before all the pipes are finalized. You will have to let me know how solid trans feels. Mines still on rubber, I'm planning on getting poly, but if solid is doable then maybe I'll just jump ahead.

Lol Intercooler piping is already done. Its funny because I thought he strictly does wiring, but he has a fabricator/welder and a mechanic.

 

my mechanic let me know that everything is wired and working, everything is good except for the crank not wanting to turn over. After a short convo I let him know it definitely moves since it moved while I were changing to an aluminum crank pulley. 

So it looks like it could either be starter(which I doubt) or the flywheel bolts I used are a little bit too big. 

 

good news is the ECU works tho lol

[seattlejester]

Long flywheel bolts will bind the clutch disk for sure.

 

I would point you towards all the reading on the aluminum crank pulley not being a good idea. I think even Aaron doesn't run one on his car, and he makes a kit that includes one. Basically the crank pulley is actually damping things, remove that damping function and the soft aluminum pulley will deform from vibration especially near the key way and cause problems. The stock one isn't all that great either as the rubber can separate. Definitely between a rock and a hard place here. The solution looks to be on of the $300+ dampers from ATI or what not.

[joa_taste]

UPDATE**

 

Got my car back this past weekend. Super excited to get it back, tho I do have a few things that I need to clean up/fix before its fully drivable. Had to tow it home, but I was able to drive it around the block before pulling it back into the garage for you guys.

This car feels amazing, just wants to pull pull pull.

Gauges work, speedo/tach work, Tranny feels really good.

 

Diff might have a few issues, might have to crack it open. 

It kinda sounds like marbles, I do remember leaking some diff fluid when i towed it from my house to my mechanic so ill do a refill it and go from there.

 

https://youtu.be/Og-Xbfm6TDQ

 

Basically, my car doesn't want to idle. Could be a multitude of things, could be one thing. 

Thinking it might be the map sensor.

 

Here's a little list of what I need to fix next.

 

-Alternator

 

-Front Main Seal

 

-Change out the silicone hosing I used for fuel lines (starting to expand) will go to steel braided, and I need a fuel filter.

 

-Switch over the fuel cell to a aluminum cell one without foam. After a quick chat with my wiring guy about how bad the foam is in the long run, I was convinced to change over to something without the foam. Tho it will have a bit of slosh, I found one with a sump and will end up getting a surge tank in the future. When I upgrade my fuel system. Also need to do a vent out of the cell, its starting to balloon.FML

 

-I need a new 3.5bar AEM map sensor. Maybe, my wiring guy says its a possibility that this could be faulty so I got another from Summit Racing, if its not bad Ill send this back.

 

So waiting for that, I did some cosmetics. I had bought the retro spec wing, and put that on. 

Also put back on my front bumper. Not gonna lie wasn't really feeling the hood scoop for the longest time, but now that the front air dam is back on it flows. Ended up wiring the fuel level gauge to this fuel cell, even tho I'm changing fuel cells I figured pre-wiring this now I can just swap out the cell and plug & play. Wired in the boost gauge, I have one gauge port open now since i have my AEM air/fuel, water, oil at the opening where my radio would be. So I'm trying to figure out what to put there as like a place holder so it doesn't look like an eyesore. Maybe a sticker or another gauge?       Wired back in the headlights, turn signals, my brake lights are being a little cooky so Ill need to look into that when i get back. I don't have them as running lights or when I push the brakes. might be a fuse, might've gotten unplugged.

 

 Kind of a weird question. But has anybody ever used motorcycle mirrors as a fender mirrors?? Sounds kinda off the wall but my roommate has a Grom and these mirrors are looking like they might work….Maybe lol. My knock off fender mirrors are starting to get on my nerves with not being able to be fully adjustable. These from mirrors are on point with its fully adjustablitiy, so I may try switching to his mirrors lol.

Edited August 7, 2017 by joa_taste